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Perhaps if it were made in 135 and 120 formats.

I owned several MF TLR cameras including one SuperDolly folder with a wonderfully sharp Zeiss lens and a Mamiya C330 with the 65mm, 80mm and 250mm lenses and every option known in the known world. I traded in the later for a Hasselblad 503 CX in 2006 and I have never looked back. I also own...

Welcome to Photrio! Choose one film, one developer and stick with those until you are feel you really understand that pair. The try another film.

Thank you for another day in the life of Andrew O"Neill.

That sums it up very well.

Now go out and by the 250mm lens and the Hasselblad 903 SWC. Then you will be a very happy camper indeed.

Shoot at box speed with a Skylight 1A or UV filter.

Send both of them to a light meter calibration at the same lab and the differences will disappear.

Still too many. :mad:

I have thought about this problem particularly with 120 film, but I end up taking the film with me instead.

I no longer have the patience to print out every negative on every roll of C41 film, so I just send them off to be processed and printed for me so that I can look through all the prints at my own pace.

We agree on these. The last one we are on violent agreement.

Any old light meter that is over a decade old will most likely need to be adjusted for back into calibration regardless of the type of meter. To calibrate a light meter to a standard source includes more that just the reading accuracy, there drift adjust measurements that need to be returned as...

I would start by vacuuming it out first and then reassess the need for any more cleaning.

Refrigerating it will arrest the slow degradation while it is in the refrigerator, so go ahead a do it.

Minolta SR7, Minolta SRT101, Minolta SRT102, ... Minolta MD11 Hasselblad 503 CX, Minolta 903 SWC Nikon N75, F100

So do I. I believe that the Exa is also a left handed model, IIRC.

I had a Jobo CPE and a Jobo CPP2. I sold the first one off. The CPP2's lift are was broken off so I lift the tank or drum up. I prefer to use the lift to raise the tank or drum and pour the chemicals though the top.

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Welcome to Photrio! Check out the Glen Echo park darkrooms.

I prefer the C film magazines to the A film magazines, especially with the added or supplied dark slide holders.

That is a wise move, as long as one sticks to the V Series and avoids buying 200 Series or 2000 Series. That way one does not get caught in the focal shutter supply and services.

I tried super glue holding the eye cup with camera. That was too stiff and it did not work well for me. I thhe ey en used Pliobond 25 and that has worked well in holding the eye cup on the camera and being flexible enough to work well.

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Black & white film prewashing was scientifically, controlled and rationally addressed at length by PE. I suggest you do some research and read PE's work.

When I joined Photrio, then called APUG, I was introduced to the prewash discussions and prewash wars. At the time I had occasional rolls of film with uneven development, including Kodak and Ilford. After reading the comments and an extended PM discussion with PE, I tried prewashing. I found...

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Also once the film has been hung, take a paper towel and hold it to the lowest corner of the film to draw off the excess water.

Back to the original topic: black & white film will meet your needs. Now the question is will you have enough film?

And there is the root cause of the problem.