200g/liter of sodium carbonate could be put into solution in id 62 or another developer?
What about a fully soluble amount of sodium carbonate plus some amount of hidroxide?
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/source/hsdb/5018#section=Solubility-(Complete
If you don't mind a few crystals when it cools down, note that the part B of Pyrocat HD can be 200g/L sodium carbonate:
https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/PCat2/pcat2.html
There is... Id 62 could go into solution more concentrated to be diluted 1+9 but using potassium carbonate and hidroxide because sodium carbonate is not so soluble... Im trying to use sodium carbonate not potassium...
You can turn ID-62 into a two part formula easily where the first part is glycol based and the second part is mixed as per need. No need for any Potassium salts. First part contains only Phenidone and Hydroquinone and is long lasting.
in id-62 type developer could i substitute potassium carbonate (more soluble but more expensive) for some some sodium carbonate plus hidroxide?
This without altering stock and tray longevity and activity?
I would take a look at the concentrated formula for Ilford ID-62 on Ian Grant's site. There are other concentrated developers there as well.
http://lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/formulae.htm
Olaf
...version there could be problems with Sodium Carbonate precipitating out, then I spotted a concentrated PQ developer in an Ilford Patent and realised it was PQ Universal which is the liquid version of ID-62 so switched to Potassium Carbonate and the small amount of Sodium Hydroxide.
Ian
I use ID-78, which is only a slight variant of ID-62, no Benzotriazole and more Bromide as it's a Warm tone developer, others who use it say it'' keep 2 or 3 sessions, In a Nova system it will, in a tray covered personally I'd rather use fresh developer. As I've written numerous times I mix to a...
I've been mixing ID-62 from scratch mostly these days. D-72 as well, but less often. I make as much as I need for a session or mix a stock solution if I'm planning on printing for several days.
Once you have the raw chemicals, mixing your own developer is faster, easier and cheaper.
Doremus
...results. The issue with MQ developers is Metol is development is retarded as Bromide builds up on a printing session. My choice is ID-78 although I make to a commercial strength rather than the published formula, however it's a Warm Tone developer. It's a variant of ID-62 (PQ Universal).
Ian
...spoon recipes figured this way are more than precise enough for consistent results. Many print developers are the same; I mix D-72 and ID-62 with spoon recipes all the time.
An alternative to mixing small amounts from powder is to use a liquid concentrate developer like HC-110 (Ilfotech HC...
...but after a certain point, you're just adding overall density and risking fogging the whites. FWIW, my standard times in D-72 (Dektol) and ID-62 is 2.5 minutes.
Make your test strip, find your base exposure and make a "first print." Decide on what improvements, manipulations, changes you...
I used ID-62 with appropriate amount of Potassium Thiocyanate earlier and then my own brew of first developer. Haven't reversed Delta yet, but your results are encouraging me to try.
Agreed: D-76 is ridiculously easy to make from scratch (get thee to ArtCraft) and ultimately less expensive.
D-76
Ingredients/chemicals you need:
750ml of Water
2gm of Metol
100gm of Sodium Sulfite anhydrous
5gm of Hydroquinone
2gm of Borax
Cold water to make 1 liter...
...of the other standards will do you just fine. If you feel more adventurous, it's really easy to mix your own D-72 or (my favorite these days) ID-62, but you have to make the initial investment in raw chemicals. Your decision.
Stop bath: Kodak indicator stop is cheap and lasts forever...
Thanks for the ideas. I really don't need to be that frugal with darkroom chemistry anymore, but I have developed habits over the years (and pinching pennies is one of those habits). I could certainly use my developer for fewer sessions and avoid the discoloration, but I just don't feel...
My observations.
I've used Dektol, D-72, Zone VI developer (which was, I believe ID-62, but some say it's just D-72), Bromophen, ID-62 and Liquidol plus a few glycin developers, etc. that are irrelevant here.
I mix mostly from scratch what I need for a session, usually 2-4 liters of working...
...brown sooner than the Dektol which leads me to think that Dektol and D72 are not really clones of each other. Because of that, I tried mixing ID-62 and also bought some Freestyle powder paper developer, both of which also turned brown sooner than Dektol (but no sooner than the D72). The...
Ah. OK. Sorry. I thought it was PQ. Thanks though :-)
They might have though.
Using it as a second developer sounds kind of interesting then... did you ever do that, if so... did you use regular dilutions and times?
No, that's ID-62, dilute 1+1 for reversal FD. PQ Universal is a much more concentrated version. The problem with too much sulphite already in the developer is it doesn't make it easier for you to finesse solvent or accelerators - as you already have added a potentially troublesome variable with...
Consider the dilutions - and that recipe you linked is essentially ID-62 rather than the much more concentrated PQ Universal, either way at the dilution recommended (PQ Universal 1+5), you're looking at about 30g/l sulphite - D-11 is used at full strength.
I don't know about your recipe Wayne, but this is the one that I've been using and it works brilliantly!
But as said by many, one can be a bit casual almost, with varying amounts of the chemicals and still get good results. :)
Terry S
Kodak D-72 Print Developer
Metric Spoons and Ounces...
I think I see what you did now, except for the sulfite. This is presumably to directly make a 1:2 working solution, not a stock solution. The numbers work out a lot more well rounded than they do for a liter of stock. But why so much sulfite? That's more than half the sulfite of the stock...
+1000. To my mind D72 was Kodak's best kept hidden secret (along with their much-maligned film developer, the infamous DK60a) and several of my fellow darkroom enthusiasts who also mix their own at home agree with this.
D72 is easily whipped up and bending a few rules in the mix can produce...
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