Now compared to the direct competitor, the Canon New F-1:
- No weather sealing vs extensive weather sealing on the Canon. Source: Comparing both service manuals. Canon not only uses extensive silicone aprons throughout the camera, it has a section dedicated on how to re-apply sealant for...
Yes, and I'd say the FE due to the ability to mount pre-AI lenses. The FE is my Nikon of choice these days.
If the FE was as well built as the F2... well, it would be the Nikon EL2, but the FE has some improvements over the EL2 despite using the same circuitry.
The list of things that are crippled on the F3 cs F2 can be very long...
- Awful "+/-" tiny meter display (instead of extremely clear LEDs or needles)
- Tiny, awful LED display (instead of clear numbers)
- Only two mechanical speeds. No battery tester to see how much you've left (unlike Canon...
My F2S with upgraded screen has a brighter, clearer viewfinder than the F3 (regular finder) and F3P (with titanium HP finder) i had. The finder on the F2SB and AS is superior to the aforementioned F3 finders.
The need for a semi-transparent mirror on the F3 impairs the potential for viewfinder...
I have the F2SB and have had the F2 with plain prism.
The F2 with plain prism is more ergonomic, no doubt about it, and lighter.
But the F2SB has not just an excellent LED meter (and very sensitive) but also an excellent display of shutter speed and aperture on the viewfinder, all arranged on...
I thought what I was suggesting was evident, but I'll make it explicit:
On a digital color image, the color values follow a standard (i.e. Adobe RGB). Any color material that is scanned, be it Ektachrome, Kodachrome, various C41 films and various ECN2 films, passes through a conversion stage to...
What an excellent post, that's the reason I come here to Photrio.
So QED: RA4 simply can't produce good color from a ECN-2 negative.
But have you tried printing through a digital workflow? I guess it should work fine, perhaps even splendidly.
If you want to really take high image quality, you'll first need to make sure you're getting top quality scanning (or printing)
The 50/1.8 long-nose Nikkor is IMO pretty much unbeatable. Made in japan "Zeiss" is not comparable to real Zeiss IMO.
Some people are suggesting Leica R lenses...
Substantial. In my experience the jump in quality from 35mm to 6x4.5 is bigger than the jump from 6x4.5 to 6x7. Math (considering area increase) supports this as well.
Now, when using a very very good film like Fuji Acros on both formats, the jump isn't as dramatic, but it is still there...
How can it crack? It is 100% metal... Perhaps what has cracked is the pivot (the axis) of this lever, and that would be a serious damage that would require a new camera body.
I recommend you to send them via parcel to this friend of mine in slovenia.
https://www.instagram.com/lzfotomehanika/
He's a professional (an actual electromechanic engineer) and does excellent service, much better than me. On cameras that are much more complex than the C220. He would make a...
This, this and this.
And add, good quality materials. I'm already traumatized by finding some rusted screws in a soviet camera, which made them impossible to remove.
Also, add to that list, good service manuals. I'm opening a separate thread on Kiev 88 cameras because of the poor documentation...
Of course. ECN2 film that, when developed in C41, is perfectly fine for all the younger film shooters who love outdated film, "film soups", and other similar stuff that doesn't give correct colors.
Yes, this sounds the most plausible.
Thus, it's confimed. It IS an ECN-2 film. No cameraman...
This means it was digital printing. The printer (laser, if i recall correcly) knows how to output any digital file to RA4 paper correctly. If on the scan everything looks good (and it should, since it's ECN2 film developed on the ECN2 process), then the output should look good.
However if you...
Ok, sounds good. I also don't remember any washer, but coudn't have any other explanation.
This is the parts diagram (from the ME which should be identical). What I recall is that the retainer C8 is the most important part to get tightly locked. If you get it sufficiently tight then C139 (cap)...
Sounds like a missing washer. Probably the advance lever top screw is getting friction against the advance lever. This should not happen on an ME or ME Super.
Maybe it's better if you check a parts diagram and compare to your camera.
This is not going to be solved with loctite or the like. My...
I like working on the Bronica ETRS / ETRSi, they're friendly.
I like disassembling my Contax IIa, it's easy too.
The Pentax 67 i also find friendly, however the plastic panels can break if you're not careful.
If the Contax RTS III was the most wanted, it would have had better sales.
The vacuum device is ingenious, however lenses don't focus to a flat plane. They try to do that, but it's optically difficult, if not impossible. Lenses can be easily designed to be focused on a curved plane (see, for...
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