Hasselblad lens choice - 80 vs 60 vs 50 vs 40mm

[John Wiegerink]

I have a 553 ELX, I use a Hasselblad left hand grip. I use a grip with the non-motor bodies too. Kinda weird on my part but I've always used a grip. By mint I mean the glass.

I use my 553ELX the same way but run my 500C bare. Kayo, the conversion for $100.00 is reasonable, but if it were much more, I'd forget it and just use the camera the way it was meant to be used. I started with just the 80mm and would have stayed with that for a long time, but I was shooting weddings and bought a 50mm and 150mm right away. It was the perfect setup for me at the time. What Dan says above about the 50mm compared to the 60mm is true. The first time I was forced to use to 50mm for a wedding was when the bride wanted a certain shot with all bridesmaids in a tight cramped room. I shot the 50mm hand-held and was on a slight angle to the group. Make a long story short the girl on the one end had fat, distorted arms that I didn't notice right away in the viewfinder. That was a lesson learned the hard way about the 50mm. That said, the 50mm is a fantastic lens worth every penny you pay for it. If I wouldn't have been shooting weddings, I would have preferred a 60mm, 100mm and 180mm as a set. I have a SWC and it would have been my wide angle for that setup.

 

[Arthurwg]

Even if you "convert" your camera to manual you'll still have the same awkward form factor of the motor for hand holding, and the camera will probably be impossible to resell. Better save some moey and get a proper manual Hasselblad.

The 60mm lens is my favorite, and coupled with the 150mm it might be all you will ever need.

 

[Nitroplait]

The instant mirror return makes the motorised Hasselblads so much nicer to use than the many models with black-out.
Hard for me to understand that weight is a concern with a camera that is already kind of bulky, but to each their own - You definitely don't want the C 40mm f/4 if you are sensitive to weight.

 

[Kayo]

So you have some history with zooms on digital cameras? That most likely means that you have a data set of what focal lengths you like to use. Go through files and look at the zoom setting for shots that you like. Look over months. Patterns will emerge. When I shot a lot of digital I was surprised to see that I shot at around 35mm equiv. for maybe two-thirds of my favorite shots. Recent gathering of images over the last year or so led to almost all my favorites being shot with either a Rollei Wide or a 60mm on a Hassy. And I hadn't used these very much. So look back and see what lenses have worked for you.

With Hassy lenses, I wouldn't get too obsessed with which is sharper, etc. They are all very good. My experience with a 50mm on a Hassy is that it is at that point where it introduces a tendency to go wide angle wonky if you aren't paying attention. Nothing severe and not hard to control at all, but still... The 60 is a wide normal, while the 50 is a wide angle, if that makes sense. Since you know the 80 on 6x6 already, the issue is if you want to try something different in focal length, or same focal length but different camera style. Me, I considered the main reason to use a Hassy over a Rolleiflex being the different focal length options.

Will be sure to check. Thank you for pointing that out, I do not usually pay much attention to photo settings and such.

 

[Kayo]

Even if you "convert" your camera to manual you'll still have the same awkward form factor of the motor for hand holding, and the camera will probably be impossible to resell. Better save some moey and get a proper manual Hasselblad.

The 60mm lens is my favorite, and coupled with the 150mm it might be all you will need

Here are two examples of converted 553 bodies. There are some differences on the back side, shutter area, and such, but I do agree that resale may become an issue.

That said, I do plan to get the 60mm very, very soon, perhaps even today.

(Not meant as an ad. To the extent of my knowledge, he is not really accepting international orders, as that would become rather troublesome)

That said, I do plan to get the 60mm very, very soon, perhaps even today.

 

[Kayo]

The instant mirror return makes the motorised Hasselblads so much nicer to use than the many models with black-out.
Hard for me to understand that weight is a concern with a camera that is already kind of bulky, but to each their own - You definitely don't want the C 40mm f/4 if you are sensitive to weight.

I was on the edge a little as well, since I already have the 2.8F for handheld shooting. But in the end, I would like to think that I enjoy manual operation more. Knowing myself, though, I am rather prone to changing my mind, perhaps regretting the decision a few days after, lol.

Of course, I could get a 500CM body or something. But I have convinced myself that getting another elm would be easier (cheaper).

I have largely settled on the 60mm by this point.

 

[Arthurwg]

Here are two examples of converted 553 bodies. There are some differences on the back side, shutter area, and such, but I do agree that resale may become an issue.

OK. I did not realize that the entire under body/ motor housing could be removed. Go for it!

 

[Pieter12]

OK. I did not realize that the entire under body/ motor housing could be removed. Go for it!

The motor housing cannot be removed from the later cameras like the 553 ELX.

 

[epatsellis]

I faced the same issue when I returned to the Hassy system. Ultimately, the answer was yes, all of the above. It did take several years to get there however.

For the time being, I have the 38 (SWC), 40, 50, 60, 80, 100, 120, 135, 150, 250, 350, 500. Note that it was running across ridiculously cheap lenses over time that got me here...

 

[Kayo]

The motor housing cannot be removed from the later cameras like the 553 ELX.

Please see the photos I posted. it’s an irreversible and damaging process that involves drilling and such.

Here is also a 3D-printed version, which does not damage the body, though of course it is a different kind of solution.

 

[Alexander6x6]

Please see the photos I posted. it’s an irreversible and damaging process that involves drilling and such.

Here is also a 3D-printed version, which does not damage the body, though of course it is a different kind of solution.

I can see the 500ELX in your photos, not the 553ELX as you stated.

 

[MattKing]

In terms of medium format, I have enjoyed a 110mm on the RB67, currently, with my preferred medium format option rolleiflex 2.8f the fixed 80mm lens on it feels quite natural to me.

For 35mm film, such as with my Nikon F3/T, I would say 40mm best suits my vision. Before getting into film, I mostly used zoom lenses, such as a 24-70mm, so I am still not completely sure what my real fixed-lens preferences are yet as I haven't tried every length especially not in medium format which is a whole other experience.

In that case, I would recommend the 60mm.
As the aspect ratios differ, there is no exact comparable that would answer the question - other than the 80mm on the Rolleiflex of course - but a moderate wide angle like the 60mm seems the closest choice.
FWIW, I tend toward 35mm focal length on my 135 film cameras and 65mm on my Mamiya C330.

 

[Rayt]

I personally would prefer an SWC CF T*, 60mm CF or CFi, and 100 CF or CFi. I wouldn’t reject a 50mm the one with floating elements and any 80mm Planar plus the SWC. None of these will compromise my photography. This is for tripod shooting. Handheld it’s Rolleiflex and nothing else.

 

[Kayo]

I can see the 500ELX in your photos, not the 553ELX as you stated.

Sorry, I got a little confused, lol. Here is a 553ELX manual edition. I think I mentioned the 553 because another friend of mine choose to convert his, and I was still a little dazed from just waking up.

 

[Kayo]

In that case, I would recommend the 60mm.
As the aspect ratios differ, there is no exact comparable that would answer the question - other than the 80mm on the Rolleiflex of course - but a moderate wide angle like the 60mm seems the closest choice.
FWIW, I tend toward 35mm focal length on my 135 film cameras and 65mm on my Mamiya C330.

Gotcha. At the moment, I am actually working on a deal for a 60mm C T*. It seems I may have received the message because of this post, so perhaps the timing was rather fortunate.

 

[Kayo]

I personally would prefer an SWC CF T*, 60mm CF or CFi, and 100 CF or CFi. I wouldn’t reject a 50mm the one with floating elements and any 80mm Planar plus the SWC. None of these will compromise my photography. This is for tripod shooting. Handheld it’s Rolleiflex and nothing else.

Since I am only a poor college student, I think I would be quite inclined to convincing myself that I would not miss the floating element too much, and that optically there is not such a great difference between the CT and CF versions.

But in reality as a gear person I am sure I will end up getting some of these lenses in due time :3

 

[Kayo]

I have just, (within these past five minutes), purchased a nice condition CT 60mm for a good price. I am quite thankful that I opened this thread, because otherwise I would not have received the offer, nor decided so quickly.

I am not really someone who moves slowly when consumerism is involved, so in that sense it is quite a relief not to have to keep thinking about it anymore, at least until my inevitable next lens in a few months.

 

[Rayt]

Since I am only a poor college student, I think I would be quite inclined to convincing myself that I would not miss the floating element too much, and that optically there is not such a great difference between the CT and CF versions.

But in reality as a gear person I am sure I will end up getting some of these lenses in due time :3

The 50/80/150 kit is hard to beat. I avoid carrying too many lenses around so 60/100 combo is a more compact alternative. The only Hasselblad lens essential to me is the 38mm Biogon.

 

[Pieter12]

The only Hasselblad lens essential to me is the 38mm Biogon.

Which comes with its own body...quite compact and lightweight, since it doesn't have a reflex viewfinder.

 

[Rayt]

Which comes with its own body...quite compact and lightweight, since it doesn't have a reflex viewfinder.

I often travel with one with a Rolleiflex. The SWC can be used handheld zone focused for street and travel. After a while I know what it sees and don’t need the external finder. If not for the slow f/4.5 lens I don’t mind it as my only camera. The only challenge is to hold it perfectly level.

 

[Pieter12]

If not for the slow f/4.5 lens

I find the SWC quite sharp wide open, while other lenses need to be stopped down at least one stop to get there...so that 2.8 is more likely to be shot at 4 or 5.6

 

[Kayo]

I often travel with one with a Rolleiflex. The SWC can be used handheld zone focused for street and travel. After a while I know what it sees and don’t need the external finder. If not for the slow f/4.5 lens I don’t mind it as my only camera. The only challenge is to hold it perfectly level.

I quite enjoy zone focusing, interested for sure. I was introduced to it a bit through the Olympus XA2, and also through a Nikon S3 borrowed from my grandfather, whose rangefinder patch is rather blurry. I am currently looking for a “blind Leica” as well.

I definitely would like to try the SWC one day too, may try to get a 100mm sooner than that.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thank you very much for the advice. May I ask why you would not recommend the 100mm? From what I have seen, both in measured specifications and in market prices, it seems to be one of the more highly sought-after Hasselblad lenses, too close in purpose with 80/150?

I do not doubt that the 100mm is a great lens. Zeiss doesn't make bad glass, but the 'holy' trio (50, 80, 150) is a well-proven combo among Hasselblad photographers worldwide. It provides a kit equipped to handle most photographic challenges.

 

[mshchem]

50 cf fle, 40 cfi ,old and beautiful, huge 50mm Distagon C, 80mm C. The 80 C is by far the easiest, smallest normal lens, bay 50 filter.

 

[Arthurwg]

My Humble Opinions? The SWC is the best camera ever made and is very easy to hand hold with success, The 50mm and 60mm lenses are also very easy to shoot hand held, especially using Wildi's suggestion of using the 45 degree prism pressed firmly to the eye socket.