Choosing a 6x6 system for renewed film shooting... opinions wanted.

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Sirius Glass

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Is the Hasselblad that tricky to use? I've heard that with the Kiev, you have have to be very careful about some operations or it goes *cruynch*.... But was unaware the Hasselblad was similarly delicate.

My Bronica is extremely rugged, and aside from electrical contact issues, could probably survive a drop onto anything softer than concrete-- not RTFM'ing can lead to unexpected behavior, but not a systems failure.
No, one needs to stick to two rules:
  • Always make sure that both the lens and the body are cocked before attaching removing.
  • Always put on the extender or extension tubes from the body out and add the lens last and then remove the cocked lens first and each extension from the end until the last extension is removed from the body.
 

grat

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Always make sure that both the lens and the body are cocked before attaching removing.

Makes sense. Wouldn't want your lens going off (or coming on) half-cocked.

The Bronica won't allow you to remove the lens unless the system is cocked and the mirror down-- I suspect to keep the film from being exposed.
 

Sirius Glass

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Makes sense. Wouldn't want your lens going off (or coming on) half-cocked.

The Bronica won't allow you to remove the lens unless the system is cocked and the mirror down-- I suspect to keep the film from being exposed.

Too many people who complain about cameras jamming go around half cocked. It figures.
 

mshchem

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One thing about the Hasselblad. Design. Like the Leica and the original Nikon F, from a purely form follows function Hasselblad is about as good as it gets. Especially if one is right handed. The way the camera lays in your left hand, using a WLF. The later acutematte focusing screens are also amazing
 

MattKing

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Especially if one is right handed.
And if, like me, you are strongly left handed, and have limited use of your right hand, they are really awkward to use!
In comparison, my various Mamiya medium format cameras (sometimes with a couple of accessories) have been great for me.
IMHO, ergonomics is more important than many other factors, when it comes to cameras.
 

mshchem

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And if, like me, you are strongly left handed, and have limited use of your right hand, they are really awkward to use!
In comparison, my various Mamiya medium format cameras (sometimes with a couple of accessories) have been great for me.
IMHO, ergonomics is more important than many other factors, when it comes to cameras.
Bronica used right handed grips, winded with your right thumb, left your left to operate the camera. I still am more familiar with a RZ67 II, than a Blad. I always used the left hand grip. Mamiya is great as with bellows there's a focus knob on both sides.
 

Sirius Glass

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One thing about the Hasselblad. Design. Like the Leica and the original Nikon F, from a purely form follows function Hasselblad is about as good as it gets. Especially if one is right handed. The way the camera lays in your left hand, using a WLF. The later acutematte focusing screens are also amazing

I am strongly left handed and I do not have a problem using my Hasselblads.
 

campy51

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I have bought many 6x6 over the last 5 years or so. It started with wanting to get back into b&w film so I went after cheap since I wasn't sure how much I would use it, and then prices went way down so I started buying better cameras. Over the years I bought and sold many medium format cameras and slowly upgraded each time. I always wanted a Hasselblad and eventually bought one but I very rarely use it because I hate the focusing, it's stiff and you almost have to go completely around for close distance to infinity. If using a tripod it probably doesn't matter but I don't use one. I had a Bronica SQ-A with the grip but sold it after I got the Hasselblad, it was so easy to focus compared to the 500 c/m. I now have the 500c/m, Rolleiflex 2.8E, Bronica EC-TL (they look great, but heavy), Mamiya 6, Minolta Autocord, and the Kowa 6. In my opinion the best value are the Bronica SQ-A and the Minolta Autocord. The Mamiya 6 is the best if you can afford it. Others here probably are better to advise you since I probably only shoot a roll or two a month, I mostly display them but rotate usage.
 
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Has anyone purchased those aftermarket darkslide holders that you can get on Ebay and other places? I am seeing only two different types across all the vendors. One is blank on the film box top sleeve and the other says "For Hasselblad" on the sleeve. Beyond that, I can't tell any other differences.

I'm curious about the quality of ove vs. the other and whether people feel they are worth the spend. (They certainily are from a dark slide management perspective IMO, but if they are junk, then probably not).
Here's the one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125111313365

and the other...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125139734654

The look virtually identical other than having or not having the text on the box top sleeve... Price-wise, they are all about $20-25 +/-
 

Jeremy Mudd

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Has anyone purchased those aftermarket darkslide holders that you can get on Ebay and other places? I am seeing only two different types across all the vendors. One is blank on the film box top sleeve and the other says "For Hasselblad" on the sleeve. Beyond that, I can't tell any other differences.

I'm curious about the quality of ove vs. the other and whether people feel they are worth the spend. (They certainily are from a dark slide management perspective IMO, but if they are junk, then probably not).
Here's the one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125111313365

and the other...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125139734654

The look virtually identical other than having or not having the text on the box top sleeve... Price-wise, they are all about $20-25 +/-

I have 2 of the "blank" ones. They work great, and are made well. They are molded and not 3d printed. For me not having to worry about the dark slide they were worth the spend.

Jeremy
 

Jeremy Mudd

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Sirius Glass

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OP
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Actually, looking closer at what's on your links, the two I have don't say "for Hasselblad" but they look different. They are open on the inside so that you can still view the hasselbad film ID holder. They look like the one that's been added to this back:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154867766894?hash=item240ed6966e:g:9cMAAOSw~CtiF7Wb

Jeremy

I think that was made by Lindahl. Those are no longer available. As far as I can tell, only those two types I posted links to are available. I suspect they come from the same factory, but it would be nice to know if they are good quality before buying a few. If nobody knows, I'll order and report back.
 

flavio81

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So, an Hasselblad is on it's way to me (a great condition 501C that had a CLA in December 2021) and a few lenses and film backs, etc., all coming.

That's great, later you can resell it -for example, to Sirius- to buy a Bronica SQ or ETR system, and enjoy nicer ergonomics, convenient Auto-Exposure when you need it, TTL OTF flash, and reasonably-priced lenses that give gorgeous results. PS/PE lenses in particular were state of the art in their time and still are awesome.
 

Down Under

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Me and my Rollei TLRs are a match for life.

They are entirely mechanical and as easy as they come to operate. No fiddly bits, if you overlook that horrible automat film loading system in the older models. My two Rolleiflex Ts and Rolleicord Vb are simple as anything to load, just line up the arrows on the film with the marks in the body and Bob's your uncle. No fiddling about with extra lenses and a hand meter for figuring out exposures. You want a telephoto, you move forward, or backwards for wide angle. No back breaking effort involved in carrying a TLR in one's backpack. Great ergonomics, not a huge list of accessories but those that are available are entirely suitable to the camera and enhance the shooting experience.

The only minus points for me are the increasingly crazy prices of 120 films, at least in Australia. Also now and then I get weary of the somewhat rigid 6x6 format, but three of my four Rollers have 16 exposure kits and give me nice rectangular 645 images. In those long ago days when I was doing E6 I would happily show off my Ektachrome/Fujichrome images in the paper mounts we could buy back then, and everybody was impressed.

Obviously Rolleis are not everyone's cup of tea but I got used to them long ago (I bought my 3.5E2 in 1966 and after two CLAs and a minor shutter speed adjustment in 2001 it's still going strong) and they suit me fine.
 

Sirius Glass

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And If Rollei TLRs are your camera, you get to walk down the street with three TLRs hanging from you neck, Wide, Normal and Tele providing maximum bling.
 

Down Under

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Nothing is more satisfying than pulling a PerkeoII from your tight jeans pocket and making a great B&W picture.

Folders are quite amazing cameras. Obviously they don't suit those photo toy boys who want to play with gear, but for good minimalist photography they are ideal and (almost) no fail for just about everything, except maybe portraits or close-ups, and even then a few accessories are available to make those possible if not entirely the easiest to do.

My Voigtlander Perkeo I never ceases to amaze. I carry it around in an original Perkeo case and use it with a lens hood and a yellow-green filter and it always does what I want with a minimum of fuss or bother. The lens (a four element 80/3.5 Collar Skopar) is entirely adequate for what it does. In my time I've had color images taken with it, published in books on architecture and they hold up well.

Surprisingly, my second folder, a circa 1950 Zeiss Nettar with an albada (direct view) optical finder and the reputedly so-so performing Novar 80/4.5, somehow outperforms the Cooler Skopar in image sharpness.

I was lucky to be able to buy both quite cheaply and in supremely good condition from the original owners. Which is one of the secrets to doing good work with a folder - condition is everything, especially in the bellows.

Not quite as good as my TLRs as I've said in my previous post, but they are a delight to use, and easy as anything to carry on a day walk in the bush or a trek in the jungles of Sarawak or Kalimantan. Not ideal for photographing orang-outans leaping from tree to tree, but then one can't have everything...
 

flavio81

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Me and my Rollei TLRs are a match for life.

Nice! Which is your wide angle of choice?
He he he...

Rolleiflexes are great cameras (i rate them way above Leica rangefinders in general, as the best german-made cameras), however you are stuck with only one focal length. Of course unless you want to pay a small fortune for the tele-rolleiflex and wide-rolleiflex (which isn't that wide, btw)

And If Rollei TLRs are your camera, you get to walk down the street with three TLRs hanging from you neck, Wide, Normal and Tele providing maximum bling.

Exactly.
 

John Wiegerink

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Nice! Which is your wide angle of choice?
He he he...

Rolleiflexes are great cameras (i rate them way above Leica rangefinders in general, as the best german-made cameras), however you are stuck with only one focal length. Of course unless you want to pay a small fortune for the tele-rolleiflex and wide-rolleiflex (which isn't that wide, btw)



Exactly.
One focal length lens is all you need. God gave you the tele and wide lenses. They are called feet! Walk closer for tele shots and backup for wide angle. Of course, it gets very interesting when you use that technique to get a close up of a ship while you're standing on a dock. Unless you're God's son that is. Truth is, we can do pretty darn good with that one standard lens if we try. JohnW
 

flavio81

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One focal length lens is all you need. God gave you the tele and wide lenses. They are called feet! Walk closer for tele shots and backup for wide angle.

This is an often repeated argument that borders on fallacy.

You simply can't simulate the exaggerated perspective of a 40mm, 50/55mm medium format lens by simply "walking closer". Simply because there isn't enough angle of view.

As for the tele, sure, there is enough angle of view and i can simulate a 80mm or 85mm portrait lens by walking away with a Rolleiflex and cropping only a 24x36mm area (from the original 56x56mm area). That would, also, be a big waste of money and frames; doing the same with a 85/1.8 lens and a 35mm camera would give me cheaper frames, more frames per roll, higher brightness, less DOF, and maybe, maybe, a bit higher resolution.

Truth is, we can do pretty darn good with that one standard lens if we try. JohnW

Yes, I agree with you, but it's good to have options. They make the "job" easier.

Moreover if you're commiting to a higher cost format.
 

John Wiegerink

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This is an often repeated argument that borders on fallacy.

You simply can't simulate the exaggerated perspective of a 40mm, 50/55mm medium format lens by simply "walking closer". Simply because there isn't enough angle of view.

As for the tele, sure, there is enough angle of view and i can simulate a 80mm or 85mm portrait lens by walking away with a Rolleiflex and cropping only a 24x36mm area (from the original 56x56mm area). That would, also, be a big waste of money and frames; doing the same with a 85/1.8 lens and a 35mm camera would give me cheaper frames, more frames per roll, higher brightness, less DOF, and maybe, maybe, a bit higher resolution.



Yes, I agree with you, but it's good to have options. They make the "job" easier.

Moreover if you're commiting to a higher cost format.
My above comments were in jest. I agree with what you are saying 100%, but when all you have is one lens you use it. I'm not going to throw my Medalist on a shelf to collect dust just because it doesn't have the capability to interchange lenses. Same goes for my Rollei and Super Ikonta cameras. I want lens choice then I dig out the Pentax 67 or Hassy 500C. Sometime simple is better, because you have no choice. JohnW
 

Sirius Glass

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One focal length lens is all you need. God gave you the tele and wide lenses. They are called feet! Walk closer for tele shots and backup for wide angle. Of course, it gets very interesting when you use that technique to get a close up of a ship while you're standing on a dock. Unless you're God's son that is. Truth is, we can do pretty darn good with that one standard lens if we try. JohnW

So much wrong with this, however starting off with one camera, one lens, one film and one developer and using only those is a great way to learn about photography and the tools one has.
 

John Wiegerink

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So much wrong with this, however starting off with one camera, one lens, one film and one developer and using only those is a great way to learn about photography and the tools one has.
Mr. Glass,
My comments about using your feet to zoom in or out was mainly tongue in cheek, so to speak. If you have a camera you like that has a fixed lens don't stop using it just because you can put a tele or wide angle on it. If I want an interchangeable lens option, I'll use my overrated Hasselblad camera. Ha-ha! JohnW
 

Sirius Glass

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Mr. Glass,
My comments about using your feet to zoom in or out was mainly tongue in cheek, so to speak. If you have a camera you like that has a fixed lens don't stop using it just because you can put a tele or wide angle on it. If I want an interchangeable lens option, I'll use my overrated Hasselblad camera. Ha-ha! JohnW


For years I could only afford one lens. My overrated Hasselblad is greatly appreciated and enjoyed.
 

John Wiegerink

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Isn't funny how some folks cut down a camera or a system by saying things like, “Well, you know it's no better than brand X, it just a lot more” or “Mine is just as good and cost much less”. When they finally get enough money or someone gives them the system they have been running down, then it's a whole different story. I know it's just an envy thing, but it gets a little tiring when they try to convince others to feel the same way while never ever even handling the said camera or whatever. It's not just cameras, but cars, guns, computers, you name it. I will never sell my Medalist II and the same goes for my Hasselblad outfit. They'll have to pry them from my cold dead hands. JohnW
 
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