Resurrecting this thread, as I'm curious if anyone is using Canon Pro-300 for digital negatives. Is there a substantive improvement in UV blocking considering it's using pigment inks compared to Pro-200 (dye based) or Pro-100? Reliability and maintenance issues?
I've been monitoring this thread with interest. I've been thinking about upgrading my printer specifically for digital negatives, and almost unanimously been hearing Epson is the way to go, and as a result thinking about getting a P900. Horror stories like this makes me wonder though. Given all...
That's right. For better tonality, less graininess, I have to go to about 58-60% CSL in the mix at the expense of Dmax and Drange. It's a little disappointing, since now there's a third parameter to optimize in all of this; Dmax, Drange, and now Tonality.
One of the main advantages of Mike Ware's 2019 Simple Cyanotype, at least for me, is that you can tailor the chemistry to your negatives, i.e., the negatives your printer/ink system is capable of producing. Mike Ware gives the recipes for three versions, the only difference being the amount of...
You're talking about the compensation (linearization) curve. EDN provides multiple formats, so if you prefer curves you can still use them. But for screen proof color, LUT seems like a reasonable choice.
I would tweak the image to make it look good with the proof on monitor. Since the proof was...
Great discussion and a ton of useful info. I realize I may not have properly presented my issue. I'm not (yet) convinced that there's anything wrong with EDN's linearization. My issue is with its generated screen proof. Looks like not many have actually tried using EDN here, but what you get are...
I recently wanted to try Mike Ware's 2019 'simple' cyanotype process and decided to calibrate everything using Peter Mrhar's EDN v2.2 software. I'm using a Canon PRO-100 so other Epson-centric solutions weren't an option. So I enter a 3-4 month rabbit hole...
My goal was simple: get a...
I just bought 25 sheets of Bergger COT320 and its very different than the old batch I had which I bought 4-5 years ago that came in 50 sheets. The old batch has a much more smooth surface on both sides compared to the new batch. It's immediately obvious to the touch. I much prefer the prints on...
Good point. To be sure, I did an exposure test with a black strip:
Here's an exposure range from 0 to 14m, increments of 2m. As we see, zero is washing out nicely, even up to 6m. Starting at about 8m staining begins.
Here's a summary of how I calibrated my digital negatives using a Canon PRO-100 printer. If you have a PRO-100 you already know that it's not the best printer to use for digital negatives, mainly because (1) its dye-based ink doesn't block UV as well as pigment ink printers like Epson, (2) the...
I decided to redo the HSB print with the "matte" setting. EDN is now giving me H=40 as optimum, so it's all over the place. I've seen H=330, H=270, H=220, etc. I'll have to do more samples to make sure this is right, but here's the scan:
I think I can agree with you in general, that the transition from color to black can be problematic. But that's the same for grayscale as well, at least for my printer. So the theory goes that you might as well pick a color that gives the longest range of shades, that way you get better...
You're probably right and I'm definitely lazy! I may go back and redo the color blocker test.
This is where I am confused. I'm letting the generated LUT file do the coloring, and at K=100 it is definitely RGB of 0,0,0 (not some color). That and K=0 seem to be the exceptions, while all other Ks...
Yes, that seems to be what's going on.
You're right, I'm pretty much resigned to a lower dmax with this printer (about 15-20% below dmax by my estimates). Right now I'm just trying to get a half-decent linearization. I have no idea if there are other ink sets that work with PRO-100 and offer...
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