Recent content by Wolfram Malukker

I looked at a wirgin for my conversion but I just didn't go for it. I had the Ricoh already, and it works very nicely. I haven't made a real top cover for it yet, but all the internal baffling keeps the light leaks out.

UPDATE: I have acquired the LB-9 filter, and now I just gotta finish up the roll that's in the camera and I'll go out and have a day with Aerocolor and some filters.

I have simply been trying to find the LB-9 filter! I'd love to do this, and it also works with Lucky 200, I'm told.

Opticolor 200 is on normal sheet film base.

Once ORWO figures out the masking they need, NC200 will become MUCH better. Right now, only the base is dyed, not a true color mask. It makes a big improvement, but there are still some issues to fix. Well on the way to a very solid color film!

I have a front standard, front shade, rear standard, and a 4x5 rotating back for a C1/Orbit, but I don't have an 8x10 back. Missing the rail on mine.

Consider also that ORWO made quite a lot of cinema film. I have several 60m cans of NP-55 (same as NP20, but cinema perfs and slightly thinner base) that while not as strong as Estar, are not nearly as easy to tear as acetate based films. I will have to look and see if my NP-55 has edge codes...

It is a combination of the film, the ink, and the paper that matters. Different papers will work differently with different inks on different films. It is difficult to find an ink and paper combination that works with all films. I currently have a long-running test batch of 120 film in my desk...

The only issues here not addressed is getting spools. 3D printing is fine, but the thin flanges need to be checked for light-tightness. Many of the thinner spool flanges are not light tight when 3D printed. Backing paper and film is not difficult to get, it just requires someone to put in the...

I have 3d printed a few of these-they're very thin though so the replacement isn't as durable as I'd like

I've got to send my Chinon CE Memotron in for service. The shutter has started to stick open, and the meter is only swinging halfway. It's got a new battery in it, and it is an intermittent problem. The viewfinder is also very dirty, although I just fitted a new mirror bumper and door seals. I...

The D-number tells you the speed/grain of the film, I know that. It is also very high contrast. Of all the Structurix D-numbers, D6W is the one you want. D4W is the next easiest to work with. These have the closest to pictoral contrast with reasonable development, and D4 is roughly 100 ISO...

That's part of the issue. I am concerned about Dmax, but it may be that this film doesn't go completely black in negative processing, since it is meant to be developed either as a negative or a positive.

I've got a considerable amount (read as : I'm gonna be shooting this for a *while*.) of Orwo UN-54 that I want to develop with HC-110. There isn't as much information out there on the web as you'd think for a fairly common film and a very common developer, but I did find a process using HC-110...

Flic Film Fog-Off is 1% BZT solution, premixed and available in the US. Comes in a huge bottle though compared to how much it takes for a roll of 35mm!