Recent content by sonora

From what I know about the M system frame lines, the specific tab/flange for the 90mm/28mm ones are indeed longer than 50mm (with no lens attached, the viewfinder defaults to 135mm/35mm, and 50/75 is in the middle section of the lever's travel) - you can probably verify by pressing down on the...

IMO unless you really need the features that are different between the M3 and MP (e.g., the 0,72x finder with 6 framelines, internal light meter, focusing to 0,75m, black paint, etc.), the M3 will probably be just as good of a camera as the MP, if not better. The pictures certainly won't show a...

A light table/light box and a loupe. It took me some time to get around to buying them, but after I did my only thought was "how did I live without these?" I went for a slightly larger box that can illuminate an entire sheet of negatives at once, and I've even used it to make quick 'n dirty...

The pocketability imo is a huge factor what makes Barnacks a real treat to bring with you anywhere. They do disappear into a pocket quite well. I wouldn't say the same of my M3, even with the Elmar 5cm on it.

A Zenit-C was actually my first "proper" camera and I would also say it's one of my favourites. It also got me into Barnack Leicas (and the M3), because I really loved the size and simplicity. It's funny to think they are still smaller than most "serious" cameras today. Having used a IIIc/f...

I looked up the manual online (link), and perhaps these might help? It says to slide the viewfinder forward while pressing the lock (labeled C in the diagram)

I'm sure OP is asking because they, in fact *like* using the leicameter. Doesn't mean you have to like it too. Different strokes for different folks

As far as I'm aware, they're compatible — that's what that slot's for, after all (the MP doesn't have it, for hopefully obvious reasons). For good measure, I visually compared the position of the slot against my M3, and it all looks the same. Maybe someone here who owns an M-A can corroborate.

You're welcome!

I would think so, too. Koraks also alluded to it in message #4. For a "low-contrast + glow" lens I would indeed suggest having a look at a Jupiter-8 – they are dirt-cheap, as you mentioned, and I have very much observed a glow-y low-contrast image quality from it at f/2. Stopped down it gains...

It depends... I just visually compared my metal rear cover with the film plane indicator on an A12 back, and although they look close, I don't know if I would I would trust it to make critical adjustments to a focusing screen. I'd rather just use a trusted lens at the infinity stop and focus on...

Best of luck! Hopefully it all comes out great. :)

The Hasselblad focus screen adapter from message #9 in the thread – there are several versions, but I would probably suggest Don's idea of using a film back instead. Save some money, you know? It might even be possible to take out the film insert from the magazine, press a ground-glass against...

I happen to have a 1966 500C like yours, and although I have the standard screen, I can maybe provide some photographs of the ground glass if that helps. AFAIK 500C's didn't come with split-prism screens standard, so this is likely a later addition (genuine, or quite possibly aftermarket). I...

Wouldn't the pressure plate keep the film pressed forward at the correct film plane, no matter what thickness the film actually is? It's not like 120 film is all the same thickness anyway. I think the only difference should be counting frames and possibly frame spacing (if the magazine...