Recent content by russell_w_b

Oh, I don't know. :) I generally use ID-11 for Foma 400 Action but have used Rodinal 1+25 to good effect - well, I like them!

I use it at 1+50 as it's easier to measure out consistently (slight variation on Dilution 'E' at 1+47). The development time is linear so instead of 5 minutes (1+31) I extend the time to 51/32 x 5 = 8 minutes. I prefer ID-11 though. :)

I think Rodinal works fine on Foma 400. Well, it does in medium format, anyway. I can't comment on 35mm as I've never shot Foma 400 35mm. Here are three I took on Fomapan 400 Action and developed them in Adox Rodinal (about two-and-a-half years old) at 1+25. Just scans, I'm afraid, as I...

It's funny you say that. I was presented with a charity shop ME Super that had the mirror stuck up. It was possible to lower it by hand, but it flew up again. I fixed it by giving the camera a smart thump, base-plate down, into the palm of my hand. That brought the mirror down but the...

I like ID-11 best, although I use Rodinal too. But I've started buying my ID-11 in five-litre sachets rather than one litre sachets and mixing it in a bucket, as it works out about 60% cheaper per litre to do so. I tend to use HP5+ but will buy Kodak TMax 400 if I get vouchers for a gift...

It's easier to see the numbers (Ilford and Kodak) through the red window on a 6x9 folder than a 6x6 one. They're bigger, for a start. Why can't similar size numbers be used in the middle of the roll?

Back then I was thinking 'I wonder if one day there'll be a vehicle by which I can post my pictures for everyone around the world to see?' It pays to wait!:D

Praktica MTL3 with a Pentacon f1.8 50mm lens, bought on tick from Dixon's in 1978. In a fit of nostalgia two years ago, I bought another one with the same lens. Here's me, forty years apart: same room, same mirror, original MTL3 and 'new' MTL3. :)

Doremus: it certainly does. :) Many thanks for a useful and interesting post - and thanks to everyone else who replied too; appreciated. I know about pushing and pulling; that a film manufacturer specifies the range of EV over which a film may produce acceptable results, given compromise to...

Thanks, jnantz. Seems like advertised 'box speeds' are of the same validity as advertised womens' clothes sizes. :D I've seen various people rate FP4+ at 80 ISO instead of 125 ISO, etc... It is very subjective and so far I have been happy with my results. If it wasn't for the discrepancy in...

Thanks for that, Anon Ymous. Yes, the likes of Ilford film datasheets suggest a range of processing times depending on what speed you choose your film to be rated (It just happens to be labelled as ISO400, say, but is capable of push-pull processing to the degree stipulated on the datasheet) So...

Hello all, Am I correct in thinking that when someone says the likes of 'Fomapan 400 Action is really at best a 200 ISO film' and Kodak says 'Developing TMax 400 in HC-110 the film should be rated at 320 ISO', what they are really saying equates to 'shoot at box speed but overexpose by a stop...

Thanks, Matt. That's exactly how I store my negs - in archive standard Glassene sheets - makes them handy to check, and so far, so good... Years ago when I did printing in our works darkroom I experienced fixer / rinsing problems as a few years later the prints started to go all brown and...

I've been developing my own film for all of three years and I've never had a problem with the Ilford way. But the way I do mine now is a bit of each. I start rinsing with the tap fed into the tank after adjusting the temp for 20C, then it runs for maybe a minute or two whilst I tip the fixer...

I use ID-11 1+2 occasionally and I haven't scrutinised the negs hard enough to tell the difference between it and 1+1 or 1+3. Nothing jumps out, change-wise, anyway. I kid myself I'm saving a bit of time over 1+3 but it's academic, really. It's only typically 5 minutes! I mentioned it in an...