Recent content by Flares

I could, it'd just balloon dev times through the roof. I'm sitting at ~10m in pmk pyro as-is, so I'd be going from knocking out a 10-sheet shoot in twenty minutes to almost two hours. Not impossible, but that's a heck of a long time to spend in my darkroom just agitating trays

I dev this stuff in pmk pyro as well but still tend to pull it out of the tank with decently sized gouges carved out

Six sheets at a time on a 4x5 reel for my Patterson tanks. I seem to get the most scratches when wet, once the film is dry it's fine.

Been futzing with some Fuji HRU cut down to 4x5, but have had a heck of a time with scratches on my negatives during/after development. Would it be worth the hassle to get some chrome alum to make a hardening bath, or should I just accept gouges in the emulsion as part of working with this film?

This was most likely it. I normally wash my film rather aggressively between dev & bleach but probably didn't do a good enough job this time and had some prussian blue forming because of it. Should be easy enough to mix up some stop bath with household vinegar for future rolls. What's the point...

This's from a roll of reflx lab's respooled AHU 250D, and my ECN-2 developer was a half batch based on Kodak's recipe. So 1g sodium sulfite, 0.6g sodium bromide, 2g CD-3, 12.8g sodium carbonate, and 1.35g of sodium bicarb mixed in 500mL of water. Developer was mixed a few minutes before use...

It's certainly nice not having to faff with remjet to develop AHU film.

Super cool project! Once you have it stable, do you think you'll publish the STLs and other docs for others to build one, or will this stay a personal project?

https://archive.org/details/pcs-2000-service Here's the link

I recently picked up a Philips PCS 2000 from a camera shop, and it only partly works. I calibrated the voltage to the bulbs as per the service manual, but when I try to switch the enlarger between Standby, Adjust, and Focus modes, the bulbs don't respond. Plus when I flick it between Positive...