I made another albumen print from the same negative, increasing the citric acid in the sensitizer to see if the fogging would improve. (Paper: HPR)
This print: 1 ml of 12% silver nitrate + 4 drops of 50% citric acid
Previous print (heavy fog): 1 ml of 12% silver nitrate + 2 drops of 13% citric...
@koraks
Thank you again — your explanations are always very clear.
About the fixer: in Japan it’s difficult to get C41 color fixer for hobbyists, but I do have a liquid rapid fixer for B&W film/paper (similar to Ilford Rapid Fixer).
The instructions say 1+4 dilution, but that seems a bit strong...
Thank you, everyone, for the valuable comments.
I’ll try the following points one by one:
Using thinner papers
Increasing citric acid, or acidifying with sulfamic acid
Switching to an ammonium fixer
Toning after fixing
(I already saw slight fog even before exposure, but I’ll try this just in...
I’d like advice on two issues with my recent salt and albumen prints.
1 — Fogging(pls. see the image)
Salt print (left) and albumen print (right) were made under identical conditions, with 5 minutes in gold-borax toner.
Only the margin outside the image was masked with Rubylith.
Paper...
I tried it today, and after doing the water soak, the unevenness disappeared and I was able to get a good, rich density.
I also tested using Tween 20 alone, but it still showed some uneven areas.
It seems that the water soak works best for me.
Thank you so much!
Thanks for your comments.
I’ll start by trying the Tween.
Eventually, I’d also like to experiment with albumen printing — do you think HPR might be too thick for albumen prints?
Thank you so much!
I have some Tween, so I’ll give that a try.
Regarding the distilled water soak — is it okay to completely immerse the paper in distilled water, say for about five seconds, and then let it air-dry for a day before using it as usual?
Also, since I believe you’ve done...
I’m getting some uneven blotches on my salt prints, mostly visible in the darker parts of the image. They’re not pure white spots, but slightly lighter patches that appear randomly. Could this be what’s referred to as “measles” in historical descriptions of salted paper prints?
For reference...
Thank you for your reply!
In Bordin’s video, it looks like he mixes the stock solutions directly without diluting them in water:
With this method, the density is strong enough, but the change happens so quickly that it’s difficult to control. That’s why I’d like to try the method you mentioned...
@retina_restoration
One quick thing I’d like to confirm:
About the bleach solution, as I mentioned previously, I’ve been using Giorgio Bordin’s recipe, where I mix the following two solutions right before bleaching:
Copper sulphate / water (80 g / 400 ml)
Potassium bromide / water (40 g / 400...
Thanks for your advice. You’re right. I’m going to run some tests to see how copper intensification and slight overexposure (beyond what I’d normally use for positives) influence the look of salt prints.
@retina_restoration
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I’ll also take a closer look at the book you mentioned (I’ve tried redevelopment myself, but I also couldn’t get enough density). Coffer's manual seems very useful, but unfortunately, the manual isn’t shipped outside the...
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.