Recent content by 4LivingWage

I bought a pad of Magnani's Annigoni 1404 paper. It is acid-free and unbuffered. The documentation doesn't say unbuffered, but the manufacturer confirmed it was. I used it for a Kallitype, developed in a 50/50 combo of Ammonium citrate and sodium acetate (per Christopher James). I did not tone...

I believe I have been able to surmount the obvious problems new cyanotype has been dealing me with a simple 20% dilution of the solution. Now, I would love to hear how I can improve it. Do you see some evidence of fogging in the image?

I assume you have surmounted your problems. You commented on my later post. I was having similar problems with the crystallization and coating. Diluting the new cyanotype solution 20% fixed the problem, eliminating the crystals without any drop in dmax. Good luck and catch up with you later...

I'm still trying to dial in exposure. I also slightly re-engineered my curve, printed a photo for 7 mins, and it is close; likely will need 7'30" for optimal exposure. This compared to 12'30" before dilution. I'm not a chemist, didn't even take chemistry in school, but that sounds a bit...

I believe diluting the solution will be the answer to my problems. I printed two images, both well overexposed, which I believe is good news. The new Cyanotype is supposed to have a shorter exposure time. I hope to dial this in in the next couple of days. You all have been a great help.

Chapter 7 in Christina Anderson's book goes into detail about Sam Wang's formula. This is interesting and thanks again for enlightening me. I will experiment a bit with it.

I added 10 mls of distilled water to what was left of my solution, about 50 mls. I will try this out on Arches Aquarelle. If that causes problems, I will try the 50-50 solution and then compare it to straight Classic. I will report back and many thanks to you all for the help.

I added a drop of tween 20 to about 40 drops of sensitizer. I tried several papers, I will try diluting the sensitize a bit.

I cannot find any references to this approach. Are you pulling my leg?

As promised, here are two prints I made. You can see clearly the effects of the crystals. On #1 you may be able to see the brush strokes. That is on the Arches Platine. The #2 is dark, admittedly, and is on COT320. I don't find the brush strokes apparent, but do see the crystals. I poured the...

I have had no problems with classic cyanotype. Sometimes I should leave well enough alone but i wanted to try the new cyanotype, and now I'm spending a week solving these problems! I will hang it up if I cannot lick it quickly. Thanks for the advice.

Arches Platine and COT320, both OK, as is, per Christina Anderson and not needing pre-acidification.

I used Arches Platine and COT 320. Both are deemed perfect as is by Christina Anderson's tests. I do not pre-acidify per her comments. So, paper should not be an issue. The sensitizer is yellow when I first coat and then turns a greenish yellow after drying. Last batch I dried it on a screen...

Paper leans heavily toward a green, maybe even chartreuse. IK notice some crystals on print after exposing, these must contribute to the graininess. The fact that I dried paper on the plexiglass sheets may have lead to an imperfect drying underneath. Just a thought. I will post a scan tomorrow...

I have started playing around with Ware's New Cyanotype. I made up my own solution with chems from Artcraft. I found, after letting the brown bottle lie for a couple of days, there was about a tsp full of green crystals on the bottom which I discarded. I then filtered the rest back into the...