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Mamiya 6, 75mm, HP5+, print on Forte FB
IMG_1969.jpg
 
@Anon Ymous - leader is very clear if some hypo is used for this film. If not, a slight "curtain" remains on it and comes off with a light touch. Visible as "grainy highlights", but really isn't grain. Rinse aid runs off black if this happens, so it's a straight-forward indicator that some hypo is needed and no further close-up highlight inspection is needed. 0,3g hypo in 500ml developer does the trick for me.

You'd have to explain to me what your rehalogenation problem looks like - maybe I've encountered it too. I use 1/3 dilute Permanganate bleach (100ml Part A (perman.) + 100ml Part B (sulf. acid) + 100ml water): does the job perfectly and keeps emulsion on film, every time.

When I encounter the rare beast of exposures close to reciprocity failure, when the meter of my OM-1n stays mute, I just... don't give a damn and go by the gut feeling / experience / previous results. I just set my camera on tripod, bracket 2 long exposures and call it a day night. I let latitude do the heavy lifting. Fomapan R 100 has some latitude, Adox CHS 100 II has a metric shitton of it.

EDIT:
I just got why you asked the reciprocity question. It wasn't night time, no reciprocity failure to encounter. By "EV0" I meant "normal" exposure in comparison to that one-stop underexposed powerline shot, my bad I guess. It was about EV11@100 outside, and hopefully I'm not misapplying terms here : D
 
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Trees, pastels and a dusting of snow. From about a decade ago at dusk, consumer c41 (fuji or kodak 200), pakon scan
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