Zone System Questions for 35mm

pentaxuser said:

For those of us who aren't sure how this is the case, can you expand on this, thanks.

pentaxuser

Click to expand...

Because the zone system is all about tonal rendition and printing perfection and seems to disregard the context of timing of a subject in motion. To photograph a moving subject and at the same time create a good composition is infinitely more challenging than photographing a bunch of rocks.

cliveh said:

The Zone system is a fuzzy concept that detracts from a good image.

Click to expand...

As with most things, if you don't understand it, it certainly can.

pentaxuser said:

For those of us who aren't sure how this is the case, can you expand on this, thanks.

pentaxuser

Click to expand...

cliveh said:

The Zone system is a fuzzy concept that detracts from a good image.

Click to expand...

Quite the contrary, with 35mm and 120 films the Zone System is a tool, a very useful addition to the craft of photography. It's so simple and it actually increases your ability to make good images, there's no possible way it can detract.

Ian

cliveh said:

Because the zone system is all about tonal rendition and printing perfection and seems to disregard the context of timing of a subject in motion. To photograph a moving subject and at the same time create a good composition is infinitely more challenging than photographing a bunch of rocks.

Click to expand...

Not sure why you have that idea. The key to the Zone System is testing your film/developer combination to find the optimal Exposure Index and development time under normal lighting conditions, then making adjustments if required for flat or very contrasty lighting.

Even with moving subjects it's so quick to check the overall exposure parameters, even with moving subjects, unless your shooting on Auto you'd need to check the metering as your focussing and composing.

Ian

cliveh said:

Because the zone system is all about tonal rendition and printing perfection and seems to disregard the context of timing of a subject in motion. To photograph a moving subject and at the same time create a good composition is infinitely more challenging than photographing a bunch of rocks.

Click to expand...

That is true.

cliveh said:

Because the zone system is all about tonal rendition and printing perfection and seems to disregard the context of timing of a subject in motion. To photograph a moving subject and at the same time create a good composition is infinitely more challenging than photographing a bunch of rocks.

Click to expand...

Have you actually tried to use the Zone System on moving subjects? If you had, you would have found it works on moving objects including car races, motorcycle races, horse races and even small children running around.

The question I ask is "why should you use the zone system?"

We all have different answers to that question.

For some the Zone System, personal EI, measuring, calibrating, etc. is a total waste of time when they have their own methods that result in negatives that are exactly as required without all the extra faffing about. They don't require the zone system to be able to make a good negative.

For others, the zone system, personal EI, measuring calibrating, etc. is totally worth the time and effort, makes their photography more enjoyable and is central to their craft.

Both views (and all in-between) are perfectly valid. It's your film, shoot it how you like.

Just don't tell me that my method (whichever that may be ;-) is not as good as yours.

klownshed said:

For some the Zone System, personal EI, measuring, calibrating, etc. is a total waste of time when they have their own methods that result in negatives that are exactly as required without all the extra faffing about. They don't require the zone system to be able to make a good negative.

For others, the zone system, personal EI, measuring calibrating, etc. is totally worth the time and effort, makes their photography more enjoyable and is central to their craft.

Both views (and all in-between) are perfectly valid. It's your film, shoot it how you like.

Click to expand...

Your right that there's more than one approach, with 35mm and 120 it's about controlling extremes of contrast whether high or low, if required.

It's not possible to obsessively follow all the Zone System controls where frames on a roll of film are made in different contrast situations so in that respect determining the best effective EI and development time using the Zone System is not really any different to trial and error and fine tuning over time.

It's more about having reference points, I'm more interested in what the extremes are, the shadow detail and the highlight detail and making choices when exposing if there's a need to compromise. So when out shooting with my LF camera I'll be more careful applying the Zone System however I also shoot with a MF TLR (used to be with an M£ Leica) and may use the camera's meter or an incident meter rather than my spotmeter.

Experience is as important as adhering to something like the Zone System, or BTZS, but the end goal is to make sure who capture what you want without losing shadow or highlight details (unless by deliberate choice).

Ian

I personally shoot using 2 bodies, one for N-1 and one for N+1, both for 35mm and 120. This scenario has worked well for me to get the quality of negatives I require. I believe everyone needs to experiment and test out procedures that work best for them and their own variables, light meter, camera, lenses, developing chemicals and techniques, etc.