ZEISS IKON "Super Ikonta 533/16"

[alexfoto]

-The title tell all, i have to ask about the quality of this beauty? is it worth to buy? i have mamyia 645 with 2 lens and i want the zeiss for b&w, thank you all.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/schone-ZEIS..._Kameras&hash=item2c7e262cbf&autorefresh=true

 

[jspillane]

Expect it to go in the $300-400 range, but it is supposedly one of the best folders.

 

[Nick Merritt]

This is the prewar model -- I would hope you could get it for less than that, but that may not be a bad estimate.

Beautifully made cameras.

 

[ntenny]

Tessar lens, so you won't get the full-field sharpness that you're used to from the Mamiya lenses. With that proviso it should be excellent, and it will have a very different character from your Mamiya system; I think they're a good complementary pair.

-NT

 

[pbromaghin]

Don't expect the shutter speeds to be accurate, but be ready to pay another $100 for CLA to make that happen. After that you will have what looks like a brand new camera. With the Tessar it should shoot wonderfully.

 

[alexfoto]

-Thank you all, i give a try until rich 200 euro. If they pass i go for another.

 

[ntenny]

Don't expect the shutter speeds to be accurate, but be ready to pay another $100 for CLA to make that happen.

I suppose this is good advice, but my experience with folders of this vintage is that the *fast* speeds are almost always fine (if the shutter is working at all). Slow-speed escapements are likely to be hosed up in one way or another, but for handheld shooting I think the average old Compur is usable without a CLA.

Thanks

-NT

 

[pbromaghin]

I suppose this is good advice, but my experience with folders of this vintage is that the *fast* speeds are almost always fine (if the shutter is working at all). Slow-speed escapements are likely to be hosed up in one way or another, but for handheld shooting I think the average old Compur is usable without a CLA.

Thanks

-NT

In my experience, you are right on. I used the Ikonta for 2 years before getting the CLA and after that all speeds were within a couple 1/1000s. Now it affords a lot more flexibility of exposure. The same can be applied to mid-to-late-60s Mamiya tlr lenses. All but one of mine work just fine on the shorter speeds and are real slow at the longer. They are all in for CLA now.

 

[Argenticien]

-The title tell all, i have to ask about the quality of this beauty? is it worth to buy? i have mamyia 645 with 2 lens and i want the zeiss for b&w, thank you all.

Do not overlook the possibility of using this camera for colour as well. Sometimes these old, uncoated lenses have "muted" colour rendition. But if you use a film with very saturated colour, like Ektar or especially Velvia, that somewhat compensates, and you can end up with a rather pleasing palette. Of course if you find the shutter speeds are dodgy, you may have to avoid Velvia. Portra is less "punchy" colour, but very tolerant of mis-exposure. I don't know about Ektar's exposure latitude as I have used it only a little bit.

I will say I really like my Super Ikonta.

--Dave

 

[alexfoto]

-Is the viewfinder any good? how you set the distance?, i can't find any review, thank you all.
-I like the great tonality of that old lens and tessar i think is perfect, i don't care so much about corner as i shoot outdoor with close aperture.

 

[pbromaghin]

The "super" part of the name indicates that it has a coupled rangefinder. That's the main reason why they are so much more expensive than the regular Ikonta.


Check this out: http://www.cameraquest.com/zikontb.htm

 

[TheToadMen]

The "super" part of the name indicates that it has a coupled rangefinder. That's the main reason why they are so much more expensive than the regular Ikonta.
Check this out: http://www.cameraquest.com/zikontb.htm

According to this Cameraquest, this auction is for the latest model, a 533/16 type 2: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Vintage-1950...19?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item56626be707&_uhb=1
(BTW: don't know the seller or this camera, don't know if it still works properly, light meter is not mentioned)

The one you mentioned in your first post is for the first model of 533/16, the one Cameraquest calls: "Basically a (532/16) with an ugly uncoupled selenium meter stuck on top."

It seems you can tell the difference by looking at the top: the position of the hotshoe and the light meter is reversed. Also the windows of the light meter is smaller on the second model.

 

[xya]

in my opinion the 534/16 (IV), the very last model, is much better. it's smaller, lighter, the rangefinder is better, film advance is less subject to overlap of frames. I bought 3 times a 533/16 from ebay, every time I asked the seller about the light meter, they all said that it was working fine and 3 times it wasn't. so I had 2 more tries with the 534/16. the first had a non working light meter as well (advertised as working) and the second, the one I kept, is kind of working, ways off the track, only useable in bright light (3 stops off the track).

nevertheless the IV is a wonderful camera. if you hold both models in your hands, the older one is a heavy, sturdy, kind of pre-war machine, whereas the newer model is a modern camera. I also bought a 531/16 (III), the same camera without light meter. it's a bit smaller, slightly lighter and quite less expensive. if you carry a tiny light meter (or fix it to the accessory shoe), you may have better results depending on your meter.

 

[alexfoto]

-I don't care anyway about the light-meter, i have always with me a trusted new sekonic l398.
-I think those old Selenium meters, (the cells) slowly degrade, and special if they expose to light for big period, as those old cameras. So no problem for that, i care more for the shutter accuracy , maybe transport problem or light leak.
-Thank you TheToadMen for your suggestion but this camera look in no good shape, i prefer that i fund as there is no big deal any-way between 5-10 years, if we count 50-60 years from now.

 

[ntenny]

I didn't know about the metered Ikontae, but the meter assembly looks like it was cloned from the Contax IIIa. Those meters are more likely to work than most of their contemporaries, maybe because the little metal cover keeps them from continuous exposure to light. I still wouldn't assume anything about it, but there should be *some* chance.

To me that 533/16 actually looks in rather good shape. The outside is worn and it has Zeiss bumps, but the film doesn't see that stuff.

-NT

 

[xya]

concerning selenium meters a camera repair man explained to me that it's a question of sealing the surface of the cell with transparent varnish. in principle they could last forever. if the varnish yellows, it looses sensivity, if it cracks, it's over. obviously some manufacturers had better varnishes. some of the gossen meters seem to be quite resistant. I have never come across a dead polaroid 625 EV-meter, made by gossen. a nice meter for the super ikonta III and IV, which have EV settings.

 

[fotch]

I have a post war version and its a really really nice camera, sharp photos, however, it is a chunk of steel so it is heavy. The meter does not work, for me doesn't matter, as I usually use a hand held meter with most of my cameras.

 

[elekm]

This is a postwar camera with a coated Tessar. It's the BX model and was replaced by the Super Ikonta III and IV.

Think of it as a Super Ikonta B 532/16 with a selenium meter, because that's exactly what it is.

It's a large camera.

If it was me, I'd skip the BX and go for a 532/16 and use a handheld meter.

It's a nice camera - and a large one.