The meter displayed an arbitrary number which you then transferred to a scale on the side of the camera. You then transferred that number to the lens & shutter scale. Most counter-intuitive meter I've ever seen. Great little camera as good or better than a late model Rolleicord. I would suggest using a hand held meter.One other quirk. If I remember correctly, the meter readout is an EV scale on the ground glass, which was then supposed to be transferred to the coupled shutter/aperture dials with corresponding EV selected. Not exactly intuitive.
The meter displayed an arbitrary number which you then transferred to a scale on the side of the camera. You then transferred that number to the lens & shutter scale. Most counter-intuitive meter I've ever seen.
No, the meter scale is NOT the EVS system. You need to read what the pointer is reading on the meter scale inside the ground glass, then turn the camera over and read the corresponding EVS scale on the side of the camera. Here's the manual https://www.butkus.org/chinon/zeiss_ikon/zeiss_ikon_ikoflex_ia_iia_ic/zeiss_ikon_ikoflex.htm In this manual you transfer the meter setting to a rotating knob to get the shutter and aperature values. Mine had an engraved plate on the side.
No, the meter scale is NOT the EVS system. You need to read what the pointer is reading on the meter scale inside the ground glass, then turn the camera over and read the corresponding EVS scale on the side of the camera.
Not that confusing until you realize the scale is based on ISO 100, so for other film speeds you have to translate the metered EV and set a new number on the dial. That’s what the scale on the side was for. Ridiculous. Some older handheld meters would give the translated EV based on the selected ISO, not possible with the simple needle on the Ikoflex.
Anyhoo… by the time you get that process figured out and make an exposure, the light has changed, and the guy with the Leicameter already took 36 exposures with the lens cap on, downed a martini, and bought some new skis.
I use an ancient Soligar spot meter, and find the EV system refreshingly direct. It makes averaging light values over the range of a scene very simple, and the helpful dial on the side of the meter makes it very quick to find the right EV/ISO combination. While the meter has a dial for ASA, really, is it that hard to add or subtract an EV value? Oh, this is ISO 100, and my film's 400? +2 EV. Look up EV 14 instead of 12..
Do you have the analog or digital version of that spot meter? I have the digital version, named "CAPITAL", somewhere, I haven't seen it in a while. It taught me how to use the EV system in practice. That meter and two other "CAPITAL" meters, one selenium and one with a battery, gave different (but consistent) readings compared to my Gossen Sixtomat Digital. The modern Gossen meter wants me to expose exactly one stop less which messes things up.
It's the "Cambron" rebadge of the Soligar analog. Nice swing needle, unless you're in the dark.
Very similar to the older pentax, with the lookup dial(s) on the side instead of around the front element.
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