Very close, but no light meter (the Reveni Labs light meter fits nicely)-- Konica IIIA, so I'll give you that one.
I was thinking it might be a Konica IIIa because I have one, and it’s a great camera! I had mine CLA’d, at which time I also asked for te interlink between F/stop and shutter speed to be disabled so I could easily set either setting independently of the other. The leaf shutter is so very quiet; half the time I can’t hear it fire even with the camera at my eye, four inches from my ears. The only “issue” with mine is that the viewfinder is missing the little plastic frame. But yes, it’s a full 1:1 viewfinder that is wonderful to use. The original case is cool looking, and now I have to find the correct set-screw Konihood.
One camera I use often that’s not very well known, I think, is the original AR-mount Konica Auto Reflex, the one that does both 35mm and half-frame on the same roll of film. It has a excellent microprism viewfinder spot (and usually I don’t like microprism finders much), and for whatever reason, the half frame images it creates look as if they were made in full 35mm (different length/width ratios notwithstanding).
If you are weird, than so am I.I'm weird-- I actually wanted the interlink left intact,
If you are weird, than so am I.
I like the interlink on my Retina IIIc.
Of course I tend to use that camera with my Gossen Digiflash, which reports the reading directly as an EV value.
not sure what your sleeper might be. hopefully its still under the radar because that's the best place for them to be
my sleeper is a box camera, I don't care what year make or model. takes no effort to use... and
it typically has a lens that people who shoot LF and WPC pay $4,000 for. you just need to
shoot in open shade
( or not )
and process the film in something as soft as an ocean breeze
(or not )
im stoked people are so bent on perfection and sharpness and these things that matter to them
because sleeping stuff sleeps until it wakes up
My spot meter gives me straight up EV. Also, hypothetically, it means I can set the EV for a particular time and place, and alter the shutter/aperture as needed, without altering the EV. I realize the Konica's implementation is supposed to be a bit fiddly, but after reading the manual, I think it's because people press down on *both* sides of the EV ring, which is wrong.
I admit, I could be totally wrong, and totally hate it-- but having seen a video on how to remove it, it's only about 5 minutes to install or remove.
I hate the Kodak 35, but it can’t take a bad picture.
If one pops up for a cheap price I'll keep an eye out. Does it have back button assignable focus? That's the dividing line for me. If I can't get the AF off the shutter button the camera is more or less a fancy point and shoot.
A true sleeper - the Nikon F-301.
The lady of the house bought her F-301 in 1986 - travelled across Europe and the US; went skiing in winter and took photos on the beach. Still working flawlessly.
The databack gives ability to imprint the date, time or a sequence of numbers, it also has interval timer functions and a built-in alarm clock !
Today it's available for about 25,- to 30,- EURO.
View attachment 271811
Photo from wikipedia.com
A true sleeper - the Nikon F-301.
The lady of the house bought her F-301 in 1986 - travelled across Europe and the US; went skiing in winter and took photos on the beach. Still working flawlessly.
The databack gives ability to imprint the date, time or a sequence of numbers, it also has interval timer functions and a built-in alarm clock !
Today it's available for about 25,- to 30,- EURO.
View attachment 271811
Photo from wikipedia.com
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?