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Your secret sleepers

Most of overhyped cameras are junk, IMO.
And good cameras are still not overpriced.
Someone asked today at our town photogs FB page about under 100 CAD auto film camera and I checked for them, plenty of EOS film Rebels.
We have one at home since 1998 and it is still working.
Even Leica, while M6 prices is driven by speculants and clueless hipsters, better made and more compact Barnacks are still not very expensive. Not to mention Japanese versions.
If you need working film camera it is still not difficult to find under reasonable if not cheap price.
 
Very close, but no light meter (the Reveni Labs light meter fits nicely)-- Konica IIIA, so I'll give you that one.

I was thinking it might be a Konica IIIa because I have one, and it’s a great camera! I had mine CLA’d, at which time I also asked for te interlink between F/stop and shutter speed to be disabled so I could easily set either setting independently of the other. The leaf shutter is so very quiet; half the time I can’t hear it fire even with the camera at my eye, four inches from my ears. The only “issue” with mine is that the viewfinder is missing the little plastic frame. But yes, it’s a full 1:1 viewfinder that is wonderful to use. The original case is cool looking, and now I have to find the correct set-screw Konihood.

One camera I use often that’s not very well known, I think, is the original AR-mount Konica Auto Reflex, the one that does both 35mm and half-frame on the same roll of film. It has a excellent microprism viewfinder spot (and usually I don’t like microprism finders much), and for whatever reason, the half frame images it creates look as if they were made in full 35mm (different length/width ratios notwithstanding).
 

Is it possible to do this with other cameras? I have Retina IIc that I'd love to get the interlink disabled.
 
I'm weird-- I actually wanted the interlink left intact, but the seller CLA'd it out of the lens. Easy enough to put in / take out that I'd like to experiment with it. Any chance you still have the connector?
 
I'm weird-- I actually wanted the interlink left intact,
If you are weird, than so am I.
I like the interlink on my Retina IIIc.
Of course I tend to use that camera with my Gossen Digiflash, which reports the reading directly as an EV value.
 
I hate the interlink. I can't simply just dial in an exposure when the light changes. I need a stop or two? Lets futz around with two gears until they match what I need.
 
If you are weird, than so am I.
I like the interlink on my Retina IIIc.
Of course I tend to use that camera with my Gossen Digiflash, which reports the reading directly as an EV value.

My spot meter gives me straight up EV. Also, hypothetically, it means I can set the EV for a particular time and place, and alter the shutter/aperture as needed, without altering the EV. I realize the Konica's implementation is supposed to be a bit fiddly, but after reading the manual, I think it's because people press down on *both* sides of the EV ring, which is wrong.

I admit, I could be totally wrong, and totally hate it-- but having seen a video on how to remove it, it's only about 5 minutes to install or remove.
 
I hate the Kodak 35, but it can’t take a bad picture.
 

sorry I spoke of "box cameras". you can substitute a HOLGA ( with a 35mm adapter), a LOMO camera ( old from old world of course ! make sure it has spool ) or any of the "ARGUS" cameras that are have A infront of their name ( AF AA &c ) or the lovely C ( lunchbox / brick ) for any sort of 120 ( or other wonky film sizes and formats ) box cameras you might be thinking of, they pretty much have the same lens and are capable of making the same sort of fantastic photos ... they are all sleepers and will be a lot of fun to use, as long as you don't mind that sort of anti sharp anti modern anti cuttingedgemodern aesthetic ..

im also kind of fond of this little Agfa Optimo I was given by my father in law, I've never seen one in the US but its sweet, big viewer zone focus is kind of a drag but other than that ...
 
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A camera I don’t use often because I prefer something with an integrated light meter, but that can give spectacular results, is the Agfa Karat 36. I had all 3 f/2 lens versions (Agfa Solagon, Rodenstock Heligon, Schneider Xenon, and I say “had” because after a few house moves I cannot find all 3 of them) and surprisingly the Xenon is the one I like least. The Solagon is really impressive. Plus the camera is small and well built (not that light...), I do like the horizontal split image rangefinder (matter of taste, but I find it easier to focus when the whole image is split rather than when only a small central part is), and thieves will rather steal a Leica than an Agfa..
 

I have really gotten to love that on Hasselblad, but then everything about Hasselblads is wonderful.
 
If one pops up for a cheap price I'll keep an eye out. Does it have back button assignable focus? That's the dividing line for me. If I can't get the AF off the shutter button the camera is more or less a fancy point and shoot.

If it does, I haven't figured out how, unfortunately.
 
A true sleeper - the Nikon F-301.
The lady of the house bought her F-301 in 1986 - travelled across Europe and the US; went skiing in winter and took photos on the beach. Still working flawlessly.
The databack gives ability to imprint the date, time or a sequence of numbers, it also has interval timer functions and a built-in alarm clock !
Today it's available for about 25,- to 30,- EURO.


Photo from wikipedia.com
 

I forgot about this one! A true sleeper.
 
There are still a few cameras that are great deals though I don't really keep up on things these days. I picked up a Minolta 9xi a few years ago and it is probably the nicest shutter release of any camera I have ever used. Total buttah... Compared to my Canon 1n which feels violent in comparison. And the Minolta lenses are practically free.
 
The 9xi is a great camera for price, the 7x1 is pretty good, another Minolta buys are the 600 and 800si. The 600 is called the classic, had buttons, while the 800 is menu driven. I tend to pick up the 800si over the 9si or 9. Down side to the 600 and 800 is that battery grips are really pricey.
 

Yep, same camera as the N2000 which I mentioned earlier. Superb camera and super cheap. Much better than the more expensive/popular FG etc.
 
I used to have one of those Pentax P30's. It was an odd color, sort of a bluish silver, and surprisingly heavy for it's size. Felt very solid. I liked the camera, but the shutter was on the loud side. KEH was selling these some years ago for $9 in Exc condition.

A Kodak Retina IA is a sleeper that has excellent lenses and can usually be bought for $40and up The budget lens was the Xenar, and from there went all the way up to the 50mm f2 Ektar. Even the Xenar will take Leica-like images though.
 
I keep a retina 1a with Ektar in my camera bag instead of carrying a spare body. It is a great small shape, and clamshell protects the lens. Size compares favorably to a Rollei 35

Hard to believe Kodak made such a tiny camera that long ago
 
Actually, my n70 takes 2 lithium batteries and is a lil smaller and lighter than the n8008s. It feels smaller and lighter when you're out and about too. Usually I shoot an n8008s but wanted to get away from their weight and size. It's been a long time since I owned an n80, but that thing had issues. It couldn't meter at all w/ non Nikon lenses, and it's viewfinder was dim compared to the n8008s. It looked cute, but people like me who used MF lenses couldn't use it. On the other hand, the n70 feels and acts like a semi pro camera, and having the ability to mount and meter w/ just about every Nikon lens ever made is amazing at this price point.
 
Well, actually, I don't think Kodak did make it. They made the Ektar lens on yours (which is razor sharp if it's like the one I had), but I believe the Retinas were more of a rebrand of a German camera. Could be wrong. It pays to be careful when buying the Ektar lens models of IA's because the camera's manufacturer ran out of Ektars at one point and started putting the Ektar name on some Xenar lenses.

You can tell the fakes easily as they have silver around the front rim lens and the fakes have black. They don't have the Kodak cameraosity serial numbers either (or however you spell it), they have the usual Xenar serial numbers. Xenars are perfectly good lenses, but Ektars are sharper.
 
Actually, the day the Sun expands to swallow the Earth, both the Minolta SRT and Pentax Spotmatic series will become rare and unavailable.

Honestly, between the Pentax Spotmatic and the Minolta SRT series, there are enough cameras for years and years; even with scavenging some for parts.

My sleeper is the camera I pick up, fall in love with and carefully use that day.