Your favourite B&W 100-speed film?

[mooseontheloose]

With the official announcement that Fuji Acros has been discontinued, it looks like I'll have to start shooting and testing various slow-med speed films to act as a replacement since a) there's only so much film that I can afford and have space to stockpile, and b) there's no use in crying over lost emulsions, it's something that has happened over the course of film history, so it's better to move on and support the companies that continue to produce film.

Now, I know that I'll have to shoot and test myself, since only I can determine what I like, but in going through old threads, it seems that there seems to be a big range of people that like/dislike a particular film. Delta 100 is one that stands out - some people absolutely love it, others absolutely hate it. Why? It's a professional film made by a reputable company, what it is that makes it so polarising for some people? I have to admit that the only film I had any real success with was Acros, I had issues with all the other 100-speed films I tried (or maybe none of them seemed better than what I was using), although to be fair, I didn't shoot them enough to get a real feel for them.

So I'm just curious as to which films (80-160 film speed range) that people like shooting with and why (look, lighting situations, etc). Developers used would also be useful. The poll allows for more than one choice, as I am aware that people may shoot different films for different lighting situations/developers/formats.

 

[mooseontheloose]

To me it's eFKe Kb 100, Adox CHS II 100 and T-Max 100 in that precise order...

Any particular reasons why?

 

[megzdad81]

When I expose Delta 100 right, its excellent, but since I get too excited or aggravated during shooting, FP4 has more forgiveness.

 

[Ces1um]

I'm lucky that the film I like the most is also one of the cheapest out there. I'm a big fan of Arista edu ultra 100 in 4x5 sheets. I seem to get deeper blacks with it when shooting pinhole. I also Ferrania P30 when I can get it to behave ( i know, 80 iso not 100 but you put rollei retro in there. I also know it's debatable if it's an 80 iso film. Let's not get bogged down here.)

 

[Ian Grant]

My favourite 100 EI films is long discontinued Agfapan APX100, so I switched to Tmax100, now I use Delta 100 which is just as good but more readily available.

Ian

 

[mooseontheloose]

When I expose Delta 100 right, its excellent, but since I get too excited or aggravated during shooting, FP4 has more forgiveness.

I've read that many times! Part of me would like to go with Delta 100, since I'm really starting to like the 400 version, but I'm not always precise with my metering, so I probably need all the forgiveness I can get!

I'm lucky that the film I like the most is also one of the cheapest out there. I'm a big fan of Arista edu ultra 100 in 4x5 sheets. I seem to get deeper blacks with it when shooting pinhole. I also Ferrania P30 when I can get it to behave ( i know, 80 iso not 100 but you put rollei retro in there. I also know it's debatable if it's an 80 iso film. Let's not get bogged down here.)

I did put the Rollei in there, even though I shoot it at 50. I wouldn't mind trying the Arista, but it's something I would have to import to Japan as it is not available for me here. Just curious - what are you developing it in?

My favourite 100 EI films is long discontinued Agfapan APX100, so I switched to Tmax100, now I use Delta 100 which is just as good but more readily available.

Ian, do you have any problems with it in high contrast situations? What are using for a developer?

 

[pentaxuser]

Now, I know that I'll have to shoot and test myself, .

That's important. It is better than shooting yourself and not testing which I fear some Acros users may be tempted to do

pentaxuser

 

[Europan]

Fomapan Reversal 100, actually an ISO 50 film. Double speed derives from the reversing process.

 

[Ces1um]

I did put the Rollei in there, even though I shoot it at 50. I wouldn't mind trying the Arista, but it's something I would have to import to Japan as it is not available for me here. Just curious - what are you developing it in?

So my black and white film developing is pretty unique, even for photrio/apug. I'm a dentist and I use my xray processor using xray chemicals to develop my film. I can't actually get any information on my particular developer as the dental supply company simply labels it as "developer" and "fixer" and there is no way the reps can get that info (I've asked). I can tell you its a fairly high contrast developer (so cavities show up better). It's designed to work at 82 degrees (the temp the processor keeps the solutions at) but I develop my film first thing in the am when the solutions are 10 degrees colder. I have three available speeds- "endo" which results in a non archival quality photo/xray. 4 minutes- which I use for 110/120/135m film and 6 minutes which I use for 4x5. What I lose in flexibility I gain in dust prevention. My film emergencies bone dry and it goes into a ziploc bag the second it's free of the processor. Hope that helps! It is a nice film but it has a thick green anti-halation layer and my negatives show this tint. If I prerinsed before processing I might find less green tinge but it doesn't affect my scanning so I haven't bothered yet.

 

[Svenedin]

Much as I love TMax 400 in 100 it has to be FP4+. Although the grain is not as small as TMax 100, FP4+ just has the look that I like. People say FP4+ has a classic look. Not too sure what that means but it's gentle with lovely tones. Everyone has their personal favourites.

 

[MattKing]

I would have chosen Plus-X if it was still being made.
But as it isn't, I've chosen T-Max 100. The process of becoming familiar with it is aided because my favourite film is T-Max 400, and the consistencies between it and T-Max 100 help smooth the transition from Plus-X.
I would have no problem switching to HP4+ if my goal was something slightly closer to Plus-X.

 

[1kgcoffee]

I'm interested in learning to use and expose pan-f... But will be trying the adox as well as tmax.

 

[Craig]

Delta 100 in Xtol gives some of the nicest tones I have ever achieved.

 

[Pioneer]

When Efke closed their doors I moved to TMX100. I like the look and I am able to use it in a number of different lighting situations thanks to its great response to exposure and development adjustments. For an amateur like me Kodak's datasheet explains this extremely well and has taken much of the guesswork out of using this film. The tonal response is amazing with colored filters and it is a very, very sharp film when I need that.

The second EI100 film I use most frequently is Arista EDU Ultra/Fomapan 100. Besides cost, this is an amazingly flexible film and I am learning more about it the more I use it. I think that the thing I most appreciate about this film is the ability to pull by a stop or push by two stops and still develop normally. This means I can make adjustments on the run with the same roll of film and still get great results. It also means that it is very forgiving when I am out using Sunny 16 instead of a meter. For me that makes this film very forgiving. The other positive for me is that I can under develop a bit and get great scans when I am not able to print in the darkroom for a bit. These under developed negatives also print pretty well by upping the contrast on the paper with the right filters and additional time.

 

[warden]

FP4 is the only one I use on the list with any regularity and I like it, but lack the vocabulary to explain why. It just looks good to me whether wet printed or scanned. But for whatever reason I like Plus-X and P-30 more, but they're both films that I can't purchase currently. I know P-30 will come back, and my fingers are crossed with Kodak.

 

[drpsilver]

07 Apr 2018

Like Matt I would have chosen Plus-X, but alas it is gone except for some rolls in my freezer. With that said, my choice is FP4+ because in my process it has a similar "look" as PX. I like it better in 4x5 than 35mm, but it works well in both formats.

Regards,
Darwin

Edit: I rate FP4+ at 100 in both formats (when developed in D76) or 80 (when developed in Perceptol).

 

[BradS]

For me, it is a toss up between Delta 100 and FP4+...They're both fantastic medium speed films....I go back and forth between them.
FP4+ is a lot like Tri-X to me and Delta 100 is clean and has a beautiful and gentle tonal range.

 

[winger]

I voted for Delta 100 and TMax100, though I'm starting to try out FP4 (first roll is drying now). I use DD-X if that needs to be figured in.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

T-max 100, since it was introduced. I know it well by now.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

FP4... but I did like Delta 100, too, when I was shooting it back in the late 90's. I shoot FP4 at 64, in Pyrocat-HD. Delta was at 50 in Xtol 1+1.

 

[removedacct3]

May I suggest Fomapan 200 exposed at 125? Give it a try, you won't be disappointed.

 

[mooseontheloose]

May I suggest Fomapan 200 exposed at 125? Give it a try, you won't be disappointed.

I will give it a try! One thing about slower speed films is that are even slower in certain developers. That's not normally a big problem for me, but it's nice to know there are some films that go to the positive side of 100, for situations when you need it.

 

[Ian Grant]

Ian, do you have any problems with it in high contrast situations? What are using for a developer?

Rachelle, I've had no problems in high contrast light it's often like that when I'm shooting in Turkey and Greece. I only use Pyrocat HD these days but would use Xtol replenished if I didn't. I always shot Tmax 100 at 50EI, APX100 at 100EI and Delta 100 at 80EI.

Ian

 

[Joel_L]

I used to use Plus-X, when it went away, I tried Delta100, T-max 100. They were OK but I liked Plus-X better. I then tried HP4+ and felt I was back home. I used to process in HC-110, but several years ago switched to Xtol. HP4+ in Xtol has been my working combination now for a long time. I could get very good results with T-Max and Delta but found they were not as forgiving. HP4+ exposure a bit off, no issue, development a bit wrong, no issue. Get them both off in the wrong direction, maybe a flat negative. Does not happen very often. It's not that it was difficult to get good results from T-max or Delta, but I find HP4+ easier and I like the look better.

 

[Nodda Duma]

I like Kentmere 100