Since the Avedon/Penn heyday it's all been downhill as the magazines became increasingly full of ads -- essentially catalogs sewn-together with a thin vein of "content." The capabilities of editorial/photographic expression and assertion in the fashion world dwindled, left to the various corporate advertising departments. Since then... Bailey? Sarah Moon? Helmut? All known more as cartoonish celebrity brand names themselves, rather than real players in fashion itself. When you think of newer shooters -- say, David Lachapelle -- do you think of the shooter's aura & style, or of the clothing?
Penn could shoot clothing.