During the past year I used quite a few old Yashica TLRs, shot about 30 films, learned to reassemble and CLA Copal shutters and many other things.
I hope this post will help a new Yashica user.
Below my personal opinion/ratings of the most popular Yashica TLR cameras.
I put asterisks on the models I have personal hands-on experience with.
I use
Yahica TLR site by Paul Sokk very often.
Based on a similar table I have settled down on Yashica-12 few months ago. I had to send it to Mark Hama for repairs. (Yes, he was in business in March-2015).
Regardless of low points I was very pleased with Yashica LM '57. I had to do myown CLA on it and I liked its mechanical simplicity (and disliked uncoupled film winding). I regret I sold it and contemplate getting another one or "C" model.
Yahsica-635 in 35mm mode was an ergonomic nightmare for me. Vertical frame composition only!
Please let me know about any factual mistakes.
All rating points are normalized in 0..1 range. They suit me but your mileage may vary and the points need re-scaling and readjusting to your tastes.
[TABLE="class: grid, width: 500, align: center"]
Yashica C |
*Yashica LM |
*Yashica 635 |
Yashica D |
Yashica MAT |
Yashica MAT-LM |
Yashica MAT-EM |
*Yashica MAT-12 |
*Yashica MAT-124 |
Yashica MAT-12G |
1 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Coupled Shutter & Film Winding |
[/TABLE]
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
[/TR]
2 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Film Counter Auto Reset |
[/TABLE]
|
0 (1 for late models) |
0 (1 for late models) |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
[/TR]
3 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| "Standard" Shutter Speeds |
[/TABLE]
|
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
[/TR]
4 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Cable Release Socket |
[/TABLE]
|
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
[/TR]
5 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Ergonomics (all controls on one side) |
[/TABLE]
|
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
[/TR]
6 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Mechanical Simplicity/Reliability |
[/TABLE]
|
1 |
1 |
0.5 |
0.75 |
0.25 |
0.25 |
0.25 |
0.25 |
0 |
0 |
[/TR]
7 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Light Meter Usability |
[/TABLE]
|
0 |
0.25 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0.25 |
0.5 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
[/TR]
8 |
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| [TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
| Serviceable Triplet Lens |
|
[/TABLE]
|
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
1 |
1 |
1 |
1 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
[/TR]
[TABLE="width: 262"]
[TR="class: grid"]
|
[/TABLE]
|
[/TR]
Total Points |
3 |
3.25 |
4.5 |
4.75 |
3.25 |
3.5 |
3.75 |
5.25 |
5 |
5 |
[/TABLE]
Comments:
1. Coupled Shutter & Film Winding: without this coupling I usually lost one or two frames per 120 film by either forgetting to wind the film or doing it twice.
2. Film Counter Auto Reset: I lost few frames per year forgetting to reset film counter to "S" after film reload in a hurry.
3. "Standard" Shutter Speeds: 1/30,1/60,1/125, 1/250, 1/500. "Non-standard" speeds: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/300. It is easier for me to do mental calculations with "standard" speeds.
4. Cable Release Socket: A very useful feature for tripod shooting. It can be substituted with self-timer (if it works!).
5. Ergonomics (all controls on one side): If controls are on both sides of the camera, you have to "juggle" the TLR switching your hands. It's annoying. All MAT cameras have focusing knob and film crank on different sides.
6. Mechanical Simplicity/Reliability: "C" and "LM" are the simplest cameras. "D" added shutter and aperture gears. "635" added 35mm film gears, "MAT added coupled crank, "124" added gear switch for 220 film.
7. Light Meter Usability: It is useful if it works and is precise. I was lucky and all my meters worked and were precise (I calibrated them with my Canon 50mm lens + EOS 6D body set to averaging mode).
8. Serviceable Triplet Lens:
Tessar design (e.g. Yashinon lenses) calls for glued rear element. This means if you get mold inside of this element or lenses get separated you have to replace the whole lens. A simpler
Cooke Triplet design (e.g. Yashicor lenses) contains three separate unglued lenses. No risk of lens separation and if mold is present it's easy to fix. I was able to restore two lenses this way.