Yellowing highlights

[BradS]

I'm sitting at my desk looking at some prints I made about six months ago and I notice that some of the highlights are starting to yellow. It's just barely perceptible....maybe it's the flourescent lighting? Did i do something wrong? In adequate fix? not a thorough enough wash?

I always use Ilford MG-IV RC dev'd in home brew D-72 followed by Kodak indicator stop and Lauder Chems Rapid Fix (1:4) for about a minute.

Oddly, not all the prints show this effect???

 

[panastasia]

My guess is: not enough time in the fixer. I heared advice through the years about avoiding any fixer that includes the word "rapid" on the label. One minute seems very short for fixing time, IMO.

 

[pentaxuser]

Can't speak about Lauder but 1 min isn't necessarily very short. Ilford recommend 1 min at 1+9 dilution but only 30 secs at 1+4.

pentaxuser

 

[JPD]

I don't trust the recommendations, and always fix longer - at least two minutes. If they are important prints I always tone them or give them a Sistan bath after the final rinse.

 

[Ian Grant]

Sounds like poor fixing, probably over-loaded with silver leaving residual barely soluble silver/thiosulphate complexes in the emulsion. Increasing the fix time isn't the answer, fresher fix solves these problems.

Ian

 

[panastasia]

Can't speak about Lauder but 1 min isn't necessarily very short. Ilford recommend 1 min at 1+9 dilution but only 30 secs at 1+4.

pentaxuser

Good for RC prints! I don't like them for my work, the eventual curl and the general look and feel of plastic is not for me, though they can be processed fast.

After 20 years or less you may see the yellow, as I did. I briefly used the rapid stuff back then and fixed according to the manufactures directions. (Ian makes a good point).

I've been using the standard Kodak fixer or home brew for more then 30 years (3-6 min. fixing time / 1 hour wash time) and don't see any yellow highlights. I like to be safe, especially when selling prints to others.

Paul

 

[CBG]

Time to check out fix and wash procedures.

C

 

[BradS]

Sounds like poor fixing, probably over-loaded with silver leaving residual barely soluble silver/thiosulphate complexes in the emulsion. Increasing the fix time isn't the answer, fresher fix solves these problems.

Ian

Ah, yes. This is almost certainly the issue as all the prints that are yellowing were made at the end of the day...those that are not were made at the start.

Thanks agian Ian.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Poor fixer, poor wash or poor paper.

By the last I mean several possible things. If the paper has a brightener or pigments in it to give it a "white" appearance, keeping can cause yellowing as they degrade. Also, some papers or RC stocks can yellow with time.

If it is Ilford or Kentmere, I would say the latter is not the case, but I cannot say about others.

PE

 

[JPD]

Increasing the fix time isn't the answer, fresher fix solves these problems.

I've had the same problem med fresh fix.

 

[Photo Engineer]

You can still test the paper for good fixing and washing by using the retained silver and retained hypo tests. These standard solution can be easily be made up or purchased pre-made.

PE

 

[dancqu]

I notice that some of the highlights are starting to yellow.
It's just barely perceptible....maybe it's the flourescent lighting?
Did i do something wrong? In adequate fix? not a thorough
enough wash?

I always use Ilford MG-IV RC dev'd in home brew D-72 followed
by Kodak indicator stop and Lauder Chems Rapid Fix (1:4) for
about a minute.

Oddly, not all the prints show this effect???

All in all it looks like a sloppy job of processing. Just the
highlights, none of the base paper. Yellowing of the silver
is a sign of sulfur being present. That would be from
residual fixer. At 1:4, film strength, the fixer has a
great capacity for silver; beyond the limits of
RC but possibly OK for film.

For clean prints and much improved chemical mileage
use two baths at 1:9. That way you'll not load the fix
so much with silver and difficult to wash complexes of.
Two baths, a standard BEST procedure. Dan

 

[Simon R Galley]

Dear BradS

Yellowing on prints 6 months old, means something is very wrong, does it exhibit any 'bronzing' ? ie the look of a negative if held at an oblique angle say approx 20 to 30 degrees :

For RC prints 60 seconds fixing IS enough, but as always good darkroom practice must be observed:

Send a sample print back to me in the post to the UK marked for my attention and I will have it analysed and tell you what has caused it.

Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited:

 

[BradS]

Extraordinarily kind of you sir. I will indeed send you a couple of sample prints for analysis. Thank you.

Brad.