No, I don't see any flicker - anymore. The LEDs are driven by a 12VDC source, through a pulse-width modulated power controller to set the brightness level. Initially I was getting beat frequency flickering. The controller runs at over a 100KHz but any unsynchronized frequency will beat against a fixed frequency source, like the sampling done in your camera's meter. I added a simple undamped LC filter at the output of the controller. A 1mh/10 amp inductor and 2,200uf/25V capacitor gives a cutoff frequency of 107Hz, well below the pwm frequency. That is probably overkill but I had the parts in my parts box
I get no noticeable flicker even when viewing a video recording of the panel, which is where it would be very obvious.
If you want to try this, the LEDs that I used are available on Amazon. They are "HitLights cool white 2835 LED light strip 5000k, 1738 lumens per meter, 4.6 watts per foot." They come in 10 foot strips with three LEDs and a resistor on 1 inch centers. I bought three sets and cut them into 22 x 16 inch pieces, powered in parallel. The controller is a "Supernight LED light strip dimmer, 12-24v 30A PWM dimming Controller" also on Amazon. I powered it with a Meanwell 15V 200 watt power supply that came out of my parts bin. I set the power supply for 10 amp draw (~13.3 volts) to provide EV15. 14A draw (~14.9 volts) will provide EV16. The voltage levels are approximate and will vary from lot to lot. So it's best to set the current rather than the voltage. This is because the forward voltage of the LEDs vary and they're driven through a resistor. Thus the current drawn is not at all linear with regard to the voltage applied.
I added six 1 inch vent holes at the bottom and top of the box, which is adequate for occasional use. If you're going to use it continuously you should add a 60mm or 80mm 12v fan to vent the box, as the LEDs dissipate over 100 watts. I also added a 15 amp fuse in the +DC lead to protect the power supply in the event of a short.