This is a re-post of my (there was a url link here which no longer exists). I have been asked privately to proofread and fix typos in that old post title so it would be searchable by non-google search engines. Since the old post is not editable anymore I do this re-post. Hopefully I have not violated too many rules.
During the past year (2015 AD) I used quite a few old Yashica TLRs, shot about 50 films, learned to reassemble and CLA Copal shutters and many other things. I hope this post will help a new Yashica user. Below are my personal opinion/ratings of the most popular Yashica TLR cameras. All rating points are normalized in 0...1 range. They suit me but your mileage may vary, so re-scale the points by your tastes.
Disclaimers:
[TABLE="class: grid, width: 800"]
Yashica C
Yashica LM*
Yashica 635*
Yashica D*
Yashica MAT
Yashica MAT LM
Yashica MAT EM
Yashica MAT 12*
Yashica MAT 124*
Yashica MAT 124 G
1
Coupled Shutter & Film Winding
0
0
0
0
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
Film Counter Auto Reset
0/1
0/1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
"Standard" Shutter Speeds
0
0
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
Cable Release Socket
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
1
1
1
5
Ergonomics (all controls on one side)
1
1
1
1
0
0
0
0
0
0
6
Mechanical Simplicity/Reliability
1
1
0.5
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0
0
7
Light Meter Usability
0
0.25
0
0
0
0.25
0.5
1
1
1
8
Serviceable Triplet Lens
1
1
1
1
0
0
0
0
0
0
Total Points
2.00 / 3.00
2.25 / 3.25
4.50
3.75 / 4.75
3.25
3.50
3.75
5.25
5.00
5.00
[/TABLE]
Comments, Explanations
1. Coupled Shutter & Film Winding: without this coupling I usually lost one or two frames per film (out of twelve) by either forgetting to transport the film or doing it twice.
2. Film Counter Auto Reset: I lost few frames per year forgetting to reset film counter to "S" after film reload in a hurry. Some "C" and "LM" models have the auto-reset, some don't.
3. "Standard" Shutter Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500. "Non-standard" speeds: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/300. It is easier for me to do mental calculations with "standard" speeds.
4. Cable Release Socket: A very useful feature for tripod shooting. It can be substituted with self-timer (if it works!).
5. Ergonomics (all controls on one side): If controls are on both sides of the camera, you have to "juggle" the TLR switching your hands. It's annoying. All MAT cameras have focusing knob and film crank on different sides.
6. Mechanical Simplicity/Reliability: "C" and "LM" are the simplest cameras, later models got frame counter auto reset. "D" got shutter and aperture gears. "635" got 35mm film gears, "MAT" got coupled crank, "124" added gear switch for 220 film, "124G" got gold contacts somewhere.
7. Light Meter Usability: It is useful if it works and is precise. I was lucky and all my meters worked and were precise (I calibrated them with my Canon 50mm/1.4 lens + EOS 6D body set to averaging mode).
8. Serviceable Triplet Lens: Tessar design (e.g. Yashinon lenses) calls for glued rear element. This means if you get mold inside of this element or lenses get separated you have to replace the whole lens. A simpler Cooke Triplet design (e.g. Yashicor lenses) contains three separate unglued lenses. No risk of lens separation and if mold is present it's easy to fix. I was able to restore two lenses this way. Some late "D" models have Yashinon lens.
During the past year (2015 AD) I used quite a few old Yashica TLRs, shot about 50 films, learned to reassemble and CLA Copal shutters and many other things. I hope this post will help a new Yashica user. Below are my personal opinion/ratings of the most popular Yashica TLR cameras. All rating points are normalized in 0...1 range. They suit me but your mileage may vary, so re-scale the points by your tastes.
Disclaimers:
- I put asterisks on the models I have personal hands-on experience with.
- For this comparison I used data from Yashica TLR site by Paul Sokk.
- Based on a similar table, I have settled down on Yashica-12 few months ago. I had to send it to Mark Hama for repairs. (Yes, he was in business in March-2015).
- Regardless of "LM's" low points I was very pleased with two samples of Yashica LM '57 & '58. I had to do my own CLA on them and I liked this model's mechanical simplicity (and disliked uncoupled film winding). I contemplate getting another "LM" or "C" model.
- Yahsica-635 in 35mm mode was an ergonomic disaster for me. Using WLF it's vertical frame composition only!
[TABLE="class: grid, width: 800"]
[/TABLE]
Comments, Explanations
1. Coupled Shutter & Film Winding: without this coupling I usually lost one or two frames per film (out of twelve) by either forgetting to transport the film or doing it twice.
2. Film Counter Auto Reset: I lost few frames per year forgetting to reset film counter to "S" after film reload in a hurry. Some "C" and "LM" models have the auto-reset, some don't.
3. "Standard" Shutter Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500. "Non-standard" speeds: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/300. It is easier for me to do mental calculations with "standard" speeds.
4. Cable Release Socket: A very useful feature for tripod shooting. It can be substituted with self-timer (if it works!).
5. Ergonomics (all controls on one side): If controls are on both sides of the camera, you have to "juggle" the TLR switching your hands. It's annoying. All MAT cameras have focusing knob and film crank on different sides.
6. Mechanical Simplicity/Reliability: "C" and "LM" are the simplest cameras, later models got frame counter auto reset. "D" got shutter and aperture gears. "635" got 35mm film gears, "MAT" got coupled crank, "124" added gear switch for 220 film, "124G" got gold contacts somewhere.
7. Light Meter Usability: It is useful if it works and is precise. I was lucky and all my meters worked and were precise (I calibrated them with my Canon 50mm/1.4 lens + EOS 6D body set to averaging mode).
8. Serviceable Triplet Lens: Tessar design (e.g. Yashinon lenses) calls for glued rear element. This means if you get mold inside of this element or lenses get separated you have to replace the whole lens. A simpler Cooke Triplet design (e.g. Yashicor lenses) contains three separate unglued lenses. No risk of lens separation and if mold is present it's easy to fix. I was able to restore two lenses this way. Some late "D" models have Yashinon lens.
