Yashica mat with a Yashinon f2.8 viewing lens....

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TooManyShots

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I just won an auction on ebay on a Yashica Mat. It has a f2.8 Yashinon viewing lens. I thought the Mat has a f3.5 view lens. What is the history and story behind the Yashica mat having a F2.8 view lens instead of the F3.5.
 

frank

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I'm pretty sure the viewing lens (upper) is 2.8 and the taking lens (lower) is 3.5.
 

frank

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From the web:

Non-124-G Yashicas are undervalued. The best of them is undoubtedly the plain-vanilla Yashica-Mat, a Rolleiflex clone without the film-thickness sensor, unmetered and usually available in excellent condition for much less money than a comparable Rollei TLR. It was manufactured continuously from 1957 to 1968 with the last models having f2.8 viewing lenses.
 
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TooManyShots

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Anyway, enjoy! Is this your first tlr?

Long story. I sold my RZ67 few months ago. It was underused because it was too big. I tried to get into it but it wasn't a system I would feel comfortable using it on the street. My first medium format system was an older model Yashica mat. That was 4 years ago. I went through C330 and to the RZ67. I just missing shooting medium format. I also have 10 rolls of Tmax400 and I needed another system to use the film. :smile:
 
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TooManyShots

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Wow, I got it today, finally. Well, to my initial disappointment......the body is...hmmm..not in good shape. Other than the lens, the apreture, and shutter.....everything else is...bad. The leather was intact pretty well. Hehehehe :smile: I got so upset with this purchase that I was thinking returning it to the seller. I then asked myself I couldn't do better paying only $80 shipped for the Yashica Mat. I went out and did some errands and came back and began to thoroughly check the body to see if I can fix it. I suspect that I should be able to fix everything else other than the lens and shutter mechanism.

First, the body bottom corner, inside the film chamber, is missing the corner. A big chip. Hehehehe.... It was obviously dropped at some point in its life with the film door open.

Second, the crank was mad stiff and the film counter wasn't moving.

Third, there are some marks inside the lens element, the taking lens. Obviously, oil marking being dried up through the years.

Fourth, dust and dirt on the mirror and the focusing screen.

Fifth, foam needs to be replaced.

For the past 4 hours, I managed to super glue a piece of a metro card cut into the shape matching the missing corner. So that light leak isn't possible at one of the corner. Once you close the film door, you won't notice it. I used my lens spanner and to remove the front and rear elements of the taking lens. It turned out the lens is in good shape, surprisingly. Only the front element has some tinny scratches. That won't affect the image quality as long as I am not shooting at a light source. I ripped out the leather on the crank side and removed the cover. Surprisingly, it was very clean inside. I didn't remove anything inside and just applied some dry lube and some WD40 by the crank mechanism. Inside didn't need cleaning at all. Right now, the crank action is very smooth. Fixed the film counter too. Next, I removed the foam on the film door and to put some window sealing foam in it instead. Tomorrow, I will test a roll to see if all would go well.....

Now, if only I could get my hands on a sparkling clean front element without any marking. Will probably need to get some new leather and maybe different color too...
 

shutterfinger

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Water Dispersant #40 is not a good product to use in a camera as it will dry out and leave a sticky residue behind that will build up with repeated usage. It has been reported as being good for cleaning as it will loosen old oil, grease, dirt but needs to be wiped off.
A light weight oil for clocks, guns, or general fine equipment lubing oil such as TriFlow ( http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF21...e=UTF8&qid=1411798987&sr=1-1&keywords=triflow available at a verity of stores) is best.

Lens are matched sets. Changing only the front or rear group may cause abbreviations, color fringing and similar problems. Also the viewing and taking lens are matched for focal length. Lens production tolerances result in lens being up to 3mm either side of their marked focal length. A focal length difference of .5mm will result in focus errors with the lens wide open.
 
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TooManyShots

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Thanks. Hopefully by the time the winding mechanism is gumped up again, I would be shooting with a different medium format system.
 

Xmas

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UK
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Water Dispersant #40 is not a good product to use in a camera as it will dry out and leave a sticky residue behind that will build up with repeated usage. It has been reported as being good for cleaning as it will loosen old oil, grease, dirt but needs to be wiped off.
A light weight oil for clocks, guns, or general fine equipment lubing oil such as TriFlow ( http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF21...e=UTF8&qid=1411798987&sr=1-1&keywords=triflow available at a verity of stores) is best.

Lens are matched sets. Changing only the front or rear group may cause abbreviations, color fringing and similar problems. Also the viewing and taking lens are matched for focal length. Lens production tolerances result in lens being up to 3mm either side of their marked focal length. A focal length difference of .5mm will result in focus errors with the lens wide open.

Lenses on long production cams can be from different optical glass catalogues and physically swap but be considerably different optically.

Even swapping all the optics may not be good. If the separation between the three groups needs changing.

Scratches don't make detectable differene other than price mist or finger print make a difference.
 
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