Yashica Mat film advance problems . . . Help!

[Steve Feldman]

I'm having a film advance problem on my Yashica Mat TLR. Circa 1955? Loading film is no problem. Insert film into lower spindle. Pull to top wind-on spindle. Crank to align arrows. Close back. Wind to #1 in window. Here's when the problems happen. Sometimes it doesn't stop at 1. Sometimes it does. Reverse crank to cock shutter. Push shutter release. Shutter opens and closes as it should. Crank about 3/4 revolution clockwise usually will stop but many times will not. It just keeps on cranking around to 3 or 4. Then I stop and reverse to cock shutter. Release shutter. Then advancing and shooting will be normal for a few exposures. Then returns to hit and miss.

This camera is usually reliable and in good shape otherwise. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

[grahamp]

Two things to check. The frame counter reset pin should project a long way (several millimetres) with the back open, and push almost flush with the back properly closed. If the pin is not pressed in enough, the counter reset may be causing slippage. Hard to see this happening if the back is closing correctly. Having a counter stuck above 12 is more likely.

The actual frame counting is done by the rotations of a toothed wheel that is sprung below the take up spool. If that is making unreliable contact with the backing paper then the framing will be off. It is possible that the internal gearing that handles the film advance lock is slipping, but only dismantling the camera would confirm that.

 

[Steve Feldman]

grahamp,

Thanks for your response. Here's what I know: The reset pin works fine. It completely depresses and resets the counter every time. It has never been a problem. The back door closes completely. The spring loaded toothed wheel that is sprung below the take up spool depresses and turns freely. It makes a full length depression in the film backing paper. It seems to be making a reliable contact. Here's another malidy: After despressing the shutter the film advance will not crank. Despressing the release again will not release the shutter but will make a slight faint click sound. The film crank will now move clockwise but frequently will not stop at the next frame. ????
Do you know the procedure to remove the leatherette covering, what to look for and the method to replace the covering.
Thanks.

 

[suzyj]

I have no experience of your yashica, except that it soulds like a more general cleaning and lubrication of the winding mechanism is in order.

To take leatherette off, I usually slip a hobby knife or small screwdriver under an edge and lift it up to get purchase, then carefully peel it off. It can tear easily, especially in spots where there are cutouts, so work very slowly and carefully, and use your screwdriver or knife blade to separate it from the metal if necessary. On older cameras it invariably won't stick down again. I remove the old adhesive (just rubbing it with your thumb is usually sufficient to get the adhesive off) and put fresh double sided tape on.

Microtools sell Dead Link Removed specially for the purpose. It's a little pricy, but it's a big roll that lasts forever. Added to that, it's probably the same stuff the manufacturer used to put the leatherette on in the first place, so as long as it's clean and not torn, it'll look like new.

Good luck!

 

[grahamp]

It sounds like the film advance is slipping. It could be a stripped gear, or just that the film advance interlock is sticking. Pressing the shutter should do two things. Trip the shutter, and permit the film advance to work. Advancing the film drives the frame counter. When that reaches the next frame, the shutter/advance interlock is reset. If you are lucky it is just dirt or a damaged spring.

 

[paul ron]

Follow this post on Nelson's forums about a Yashicamat (they're all about the same workings)...

http://nelsonfoto.com/SMF/index.php?PHPSESSID=9268ou00u4erqp9sqlmhb6dp42&topic=20620.0

.

 

[Steve Feldman]

Thanks to all. Very helpful.

~Steve

 

[gliderbee]

This is not a recent threat, but on my Yashica Mat 124 G, the counter is stuck above 12. It does not reset when opening the back, although the reset pin is does project a long way with the back open (about 8 mm). Is there anything I can do to correc this ?

Thanks,
Stefan.

Two things to check. The frame counter reset pin should project a long way (several millimetres) with the back open, and push almost flush with the back properly closed. If the pin is not pressed in enough, the counter reset may be causing slippage. Hard to see this happening if the back is closing correctly. Having a counter stuck above 12 is more likely.

The actual frame counting is done by the rotations of a toothed wheel that is sprung below the take up spool. If that is making unreliable contact with the backing paper then the framing will be off. It is possible that the internal gearing that handles the film advance lock is slipping, but only dismantling the camera would confirm that.

 

[AndyB.]

Yashica Mat crank

Hi, Steve:

I came across this thread this evening when searching for answers to a very similar affliction.

So, I guess I'm not the first guy to have this problem with this camera.

-- Andy

grahamp,

Thanks for your response. Here's what I know: The reset pin works fine. It completely depresses and resets the counter every time. It has never been a problem. The back door closes completely. The spring loaded toothed wheel that is sprung below the take up spool depresses and turns freely. It makes a full length depression in the film backing paper. It seems to be making a reliable contact. Here's another malidy: After despressing the shutter the film advance will not crank. Despressing the release again will not release the shutter but will make a slight faint click sound. The film crank will now move clockwise but frequently will not stop at the next frame. ????
Do you know the procedure to remove the leatherette covering, what to look for and the method to replace the covering.
Thanks.

 

[BobCrowley]

Ilford Pan-f has a slippery backing paper that doesn't always engage the toothed counter wheel on my TLR. Any chance the full-length depression looks like a solid line or is it dotted? I also thought this problem was just me - but other films with more papery backings seem ok on the 124 I have.