Hi and thanks for the reply!
I see your logic on prices. However, this camera cost me nothing, it was just given to me by a friend having a clear-out, so I don't in this case feel like I would have lost anything by giving it a go. I used to send my Leica's out for professional CLA, but they were considerably more expensive than this! To be honest, if I were going to spend CLA money on it, I would just put that towards a different MF body with interchangeable lenses.
I'm pretty careful and have been restoring vintage hi-fi for years, as well as cars. I know that's not cameras but I've not broken anything yet. As long as I have reasonable instructions and any particular warning points to watch out for, I think I'd be happy to at least give it a go.
Thanks again.
Tell ya what. I've always wanted a Yashi TLR. Since you got it for free, why don't you give it to me. I will pay for the CLA, and all will be well. I will have gained, and you won't have lost, and you'll make another person happy. Win-win!
A lot of the decision depends on your ultimate objective. If you want to learn a new skill... have at it. If you want a reliable camera... seriously consider a professional overhaul.
The only free camera I ever received was a Nikon FE that a friend was about to put in the bin. My objective was a reliable backup camera so gladly spent the money on a professional overhaul. In the end, I have had a very reliable camera at about “half the price”.
Well if you are bound and determined; start watching videos on YouTube to at least familiarize yourself with tear down techniques. They may not be specific to your problems, but they have to disassemble the camera to reach the same areas, so they are applicable in that sense.
I already have a good quality set of precision drivers which I use for electronics work - one thing I was going to ask is I already came across the two-pronged drivers 'lens spanner' I think they might be called? Is there a known good make of these as I'll probably use them in future?
Cursing already a carefully honed skill of mine - ask my wife!
Very good.
Not to belabor the point, but do make sure your precision screwdrivers are JIS standard if you are working on a Japanese camera or you will mangle your cross point screw heads; there is a difference.
Unfortunately, the only available lens spanners I can find are generically made in China of soft steel. Neweer is a brand, but they are all basically the same. Just take care with them, they can destroy your lens and mount in a flash. Chris Serlock, who specializes in Kodak Retina Repairs (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBNcopU34d_pGsKTvRzHcsg) has within his videos lectures on how to use a spanner properly, but as far as I know does not have a dedicated tutorial. Basically be extra careful, fit the tips to the slots precisely, just break the ring or fixture loose, remove the tool from the vicinity of the camera and use something else to unscrew the ring/collar or you will slip and destroy something. If you must continue using the tool due to friction, spin the part, not the tool to maintain better control.
I have had my Yashica 124G since 1975 and the wheels turn very smooth.
I did recently replace the foam rubber around the meter/view screen area.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/yashica-124-g-minor-repairs.176416/
Is there a standard solvent bath which is good for removing old grease on these types of gears? And is what would be the best grease to reapply afterwards, please?
!
Thanks, that's great!
Is there a good source of foam light seal material?
Go for it. I bet if you put a drop of lighter fluid or use an electronic spray around the shutter button it will free up. The dials should be fairly easy, I have never had to but when you take the front plate off I think you need to have the shutter at 1/500 and the aperture I think fully open or closed and then mark the gears where they are meshed. I would just flush everything with a good electronic spray but just the back of the top plate. That might be all the disassembling you need to do. I don't know about the seals. I think you could have a cla done for under $200 if you wanted to go that route, and you would easily get at least that if you upgrade later.
I use 91% isopropoyl alcohol and naptha to clean surfaces with lots and lots of QTips. If I clean with naptha, I tend to follow with the alcohol to really remove all greasy traces.
As for grease, I use VERY SPARINGY a synthetic grease called "Super Lube", which can be found at many big-box lumber yards and hardware stores.
As for oil, I use simply sewing machine oil; again VERY SPARINGLY and immediately wipe up any stray oil with a cotton bud and alcohol.
Use tiny amounts or you'll wind up with a foggy lens and a frozen leaf shutter from migrating lube when the camera is exposed to high heat.
Try Jon Goodman at Jon_Goodman@yahoo.com
Just email him; he doesn't have an online store, but I have bought over 10 of his refoaming kits and they are very good and inexpensive!
Yes, same stuff.Is this Loctite Super Lube (the PTFE grease)? I'm in the UK so we have different products here sometimes.
Don't worry, I'll be putting very minimal amounts on, then working it through the gears. I already have a ton of cotton buds for electronics contact/pot cleaning where similar rules apply!
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