Yashica FX-7 Super shutter problem

[sleepyjack]

Hi all, I just bought a used Yashica FX-7 super for cheap which seemed to be working fine when I got it, but shortly after, it began locking up the mirror mid-stroke and then opening the shutter as soon as I released the advance lever. It’s exactly what’s happening in this video:


The weird part is that it’s totally unpredictable. Sometimes it will do this 10 times in a row and then will cock the shutter and fire normally for a shot or 2, possibly after tilting the camera at a different angle?

Anybody else come across this problem before or know know what’s going on here? It was cheap enough that I’m prepared to dismantle the thing and tinker around...

 

[ic-racer]

FX-7 = FX-3

Some threads that may be of interest:

Yashica FX-3: Mirror Stuck Up; Caution!
Fixing a Yashica FX-3, mechanical SLR
Yashica FX-3 Super 2000

 

[BobD]

Repair manual (requires free account registration):
https://www.scribd.com/doc/43823931/Yashica-FX-3-FX-7-Repair-Manual

 

[sleepyjack]

Well thanks for the resources. I got as far as getting the top, front, and bottom plates off (the shutter dial screw was on incredibly tight). Racer- I couldn't figure out how to access the QR base plate area that you talk about in your other post, which seems to be the nexus of my problem as the service manual references this issue 3 different times. Then I absentmindedly tried to advance the lever after unscrewing the "winding stopper lever spring" and everything ground to a halt, won't function even after replacing the spring. Looks like I've killed it at this point

 

[ic-racer]

You might need to take the mirror box out to get to that area. If you are in film for the 'long haul' it might not be a bad idea to get to know the innards of this one well and get another. My long term tactics with equipment are to get to know one or two brands very well, collect all the service manuals, etc. Yashica is a good base camera because it will take ML lenses and Zeiss.

 

[sleepyjack]

I was able to get the entire mirror box out with the attached QR assembly fairly easily after removing 2 screws underneath the screws holding the viewfinder prism to the chassis on the back of the camera. The problem was exactly as the manual had described - basically the "QRL-2" lever was slipping from the groove where it connected with the "QRL-4" lever. The QRL-4 turned out to be the only piece of plastic in the whole assembly, which seems like it was a bad choice, as the lower part of the groove had been eaten away by the metal tip of QRL-2. There was no way I was going to be able to bend the QRL-2 tip as the manual suggests. I thought about trying to shim the plastic groove somehow, but after actuating it a few more times, the plastic QRL-4 just broke completely. I suppose it was already on its last legs. I don't think there's even any sense in trying to replace the QRL-4 at this point, but it was a fun little foray into camera repair.

 

[ic-racer]

NIce work, to get that far and show the results; makes a nice future reference. I have wanted a 'repair' subforum since joining many years ago. Until then I just post threads as I go; maybe someone will find them.

 

[ralea1313]

Hi @sleepyjack and thanks for the info you provided.
I managed to fix the camera, and is now working as it should.

I also went and removed the whole mirror box and managed to shim the QRL-4 piece.
I used superglue plus baking powder (as advised by a friend) and then I filed it down to look almost as new.
Here's a before and after:

 

[sleepyjack]

@ralea1313 - that's terrific! I'm glad that something actually came of my tinkering. Seems like that QRL-4 was really the Achilles heel of this camera.
I like the baking soda trick. I will have to keep that in mind for the future. Maybe I will even put it to the ultimate test and try to repair my snapped QRL-4 lever with it

 

[Guglielmo]

I was able to get the entire mirror box out with the attached QR assembly fairly easily after removing 2 screws underneath the screws holding the viewfinder prism to the chassis on the back of the camera. The problem was exactly as the manual had described - basically the "QRL-2" lever was slipping from the groove where it connected with the "QRL-4" lever. The QRL-4 turned out to be the only piece of plastic in the whole assembly, which seems like it was a bad choice, as the lower part of the groove had been eaten away by the metal tip of QRL-2. There was no way I was going to be able to bend the QRL-2 tip as the manual suggests. I thought about trying to shim the plastic groove somehow, but after actuating it a few more times, the plastic QRL-4 just broke completely. I suppose it was already on its last legs. I don't think there's even any sense in trying to replace the QRL-4 at this point, but it was a fun little foray into camera repair.

View attachment 234077 View attachment 234078 View attachment 234079

I was able to get the entire mirror box out with the attached QR assembly fairly easily after removing 2 screws underneath the screws holding the viewfinder prism to the chassis on the back of the camera. The problem was exactly as the manual had described - basically the "QRL-2" lever was slipping from the groove where it connected with the "QRL-4" lever. The QRL-4 turned out to be the only piece of plastic in the whole assembly, which seems like it was a bad choice, as the lower part of the groove had been eaten away by the metal tip of QRL-2. There was no way I was going to be able to bend the QRL-2 tip as the manual suggests. I thought about trying to shim the plastic groove somehow, but after actuating it a few more times, the plastic QRL-4 just broke completely. I suppose it was already on its last legs. I don't think there's even any sense in trying to replace the QRL-4 at this point, but it was a fun little foray into camera repair.

View attachment 234077 View attachment 234078 View attachment 234079

Hi there, I have the same problem on a fx-3 super, after unscrewing everything now I can’t understand how i can remove the e. Ring (number 11 on the repair chart) that keeps attached the qlr-4, so how can I remove it without break it ? Thanks in advance !