Which model do you have and do you have a user manual?
Remove the take up spool and observe the right-hand side (as you look into the back of the camera) spool mount. There should be thin, metal bar that bisects the spool mount shaft and the slotted end of the take up spool should fit over this slot to drive the take up of film. You should be able to see the slot rotate when you turn the film advance crank, even with no film in the camera.
If you don't see this, send the camera back.
Which model do you have and do you have a user manual?
Remove the take up spool and observe the right-hand side (as you look into the back of the camera) spool mount. There should be thin, metal bar that bisects the spool mount shaft and the slotted end of the take up spool should fit over this slot to drive the take up of film. You should be able to see the slot rotate when you turn the film advance crank, even with no film in the camera.
If you don't see this, send the camera back.
The drive slot is only on one end of most modern 127 film spools like Shanghai.
Happy shooting.
Shanghai was pretty much a disaster; backing paper on the film backwards and jammed after 2nd exposure. I purchased some ReraPan, but have yet to use any.I read that ReraPan is better than Shanghai, if you've tried them both what's your perspective?
I’ve tried them all and my perspective is to avoid the plastic spools entirely. Over the years I’ve acquired a small collection of the old-style metal spools for several reasons: the plastic spools are often badly made and dimensionally wrong, so they jam in certain cameras like the Rollei Baby, and the aforementioned spud on one end of some of them that has no slot in it and prevents you from loading at all. The Yashicas are a bit frustrating to load, especially if you’re in a hurry; it usually requires fiddling with the advance crank to align the hub so you can slip the spool end into it. Practice will improve your skill at this somewhat. That aside, these can be great cameras to shoot; the 44 is solidly built and well designed (mostly) and the lenses are good. The Rolleis are a bit less robust with their complicated advance/cocking interlock mechanisms, so I mostly end up shooting with one of my Topcon Primo Jr. cameras when I want to shoot some 127.
Yes and yes. I roll my own too—mainly HP5 from the Ilford “ULF” sale. Shooting 127 is a bit like going off the grid. But more fun! The Primo is a bit sturdier than the Yashica, but also a bit heavier. And it has the cocking mechanism linked to the advance crank, so you don’t have to remember to cock the shutter every time you want to expose a frame. (Downside, I suppose, is that you can’t do double exposures.) But the Yashicas are great cameras and I bet you’ll like shooting with one. I found 127 TLRs to be good for street shooting—most people don’t seem to see them.
PS: It took a while to build up a stock of metal spools, mostly by buying rolls of long-expired film (the older the better) and trolling thrift shops for cheap point-and-shoot cameras from the 50s and 60s, many of which used 127 film. Be sure to look inside before you buy one!
I use their Pro100 which is Kodak aerocolor IV 2460. Great film. but the rolls I get can be iffy. They also offer the same film in 220, which I use. Like someone mentioned above with Shanghai, I get rolls that have the backing paper applied backwards, so as soon as you start spooling it on the take up spool the last frame number shows up, meaning it's already exposed. Other times it's fine. i contacted them about it(sent photos), but they didn't seem to get my point. I still use it, since I don't care for Shanghai's Gold200, and I don't shoot B&W. B&H sells Film For Classics 127 that is re-spooled Porta, but it's really expensive. I did try a roll of their Porta400(at $30.00 a roll) and it's typical Porta quality. But, I'm not paying that price unless it's for a very special occasion. So I'll stick with the Reflx and just be really careful(and fast) when I load it. Also, Reflx Lab has unbelievably slow delivery times; at least to the States. It typically takes anywhere from 10-14 days to reach me in Pennsylvania.
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