This is a question of curiosity, not practicality, for me -- I already have a good TLR and don't need another (though I was tempted for several minutes this morning by a Seagull IVb that had the 6x4.5 mask in it -- finally decided it was too much money for the overall quality and having to use a red window all the time).
During that period of looking at eBay, however, I noted a couple Yashica 24 cameras offered for relatively low prices. I understand why they won't fetch as much as a 124 or other Yashica TLR -- the 220 film is gone and won't be back; anyone who doesn't have a freezer full of the stuff can't effectively use this camera.
Of course, you could load 120 and just put up with having to wind and shoot a bunch of times to convince the camera it's actually the end of the roll (and potentially deal with focusing a hair closer than the ground glass indicates because of the thickness of the backing). Pressure plates aren't too hard to alter; you could probably correct something to get the film back into agreement with the ground glass.
The bigger issue is the film advance. I don't know if the 24 uses a turns counter or length counter, and if the former, there's the issue of constantly increasing frame spacing, such that frame 12 might fall off the film tail. If it's a length counter, of course, that's not a problem.
The real question is, either way, whether it's practical for someone willing to deep disassemble the advance and frame counter system to convert the counter to freewheel after frame 12 instead of after frame 24?
During that period of looking at eBay, however, I noted a couple Yashica 24 cameras offered for relatively low prices. I understand why they won't fetch as much as a 124 or other Yashica TLR -- the 220 film is gone and won't be back; anyone who doesn't have a freezer full of the stuff can't effectively use this camera.
Of course, you could load 120 and just put up with having to wind and shoot a bunch of times to convince the camera it's actually the end of the roll (and potentially deal with focusing a hair closer than the ground glass indicates because of the thickness of the backing). Pressure plates aren't too hard to alter; you could probably correct something to get the film back into agreement with the ground glass.
The bigger issue is the film advance. I don't know if the 24 uses a turns counter or length counter, and if the former, there's the issue of constantly increasing frame spacing, such that frame 12 might fall off the film tail. If it's a length counter, of course, that's not a problem.
The real question is, either way, whether it's practical for someone willing to deep disassemble the advance and frame counter system to convert the counter to freewheel after frame 12 instead of after frame 24?