Kodak, per their Xtol instruction sheet, only recommends a pre-soak with processing sheet film in trays.
FWIW, and this has been part of every discussion here on pre-rinse, each and every reference to pre-rinse I have ever seen on an Ilford data-sheet appears to me to refer specifically to rotary processing.
What is it about the anti-halation layer that promotes even wetting?prewashing is a bad habit and it is not recomended. The anti-halation layer is also an agent that PROMOTES EVEN wetting of the film.
What is it about the anti-halation layer that promotes even wetting?
What do you do to eventually remove the anti-halation layer?
Thanks
pentaxuser
Prewashing denotes a propension towards magical thinking and other illogical processes of thoughts.
prewashing is a bad habit and it is not recomended. The anti-halation layer is also an agent that PROMOTES EVEN wetting of the film.
I've went both ways and saw no harm one way or the other. Once I went to Xtol Replenished I went back to a 2 minute pre-soak since I didn't want anything extra going back into my working jug. I always used a pre-soak when using pyro and pyrocat developers, but that's not what we're talking about here. Those are just my findings and yours might be different. JWI always prewash but that's just my workflow
Once again there's some nut out there that advocates following the manufacturer's recommended processing instructions. I hereby resolve to stop pre-wash (unless my tank is really cold and I get freaked out about the temperature being right especially with E-6 and that's the one process I always pre-wash because slides are so sensitive to 1st developer temperature and as Matt has stated "It's part of my workflow for many years and I'm not going to change now!" (for E6).PE had a very long post about modern films being manufactured for even wetting. The anti halation layer working towards that, as well as other layers (inclusive or exclusive of the anti-halation layer). The last word is that film is manufactured to wet evenly.
This is why, also, the stop bath is very important: the infusion/diffusion process afterwards will work towards unevenness.
Without an acid stop bath but using water
instead can cause a lot of uneven patterns. This part, too, is often overlooked.
See the film as being a sponge that you cannot squeeze.
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