XTol and foam : is it me ?

Hello all,

I'm using XTol as my main developer for roll film (135 and 120), and seem to constantly have the same "issue" : the agitation creates a lot of foam, which I don't get with other developers (tried Ultrafin for rolls, HC110 for Tri-x in 135).

Since I'm mostly using XTol, and the foam does not always appear, it may be due to something else, which is why I'm asking.

My process is to use XTol at 1+3, the stop bath, then fixer, then Ilford washing method, followed by 1 minute in Tetenal Mirasol 1+500.

I wash my reels and tank (all Jobo) in hot water, and always make sure there is no foam appearing at the end of cleaning (to make sure there is no more Mirasol remaining)

Any ideas ? Is this something other Xtol users have observed ?

Yes. D400 and Xtol is like a foam party. Where I am I have probs with air bubbles which I have noticed might not be as bad with other devs... If this is indeed the cause I might drop Xtol and use DDX instead. both have about the same speed and I have times nailed for both.

Put more developer into the tank than the minimum recommended - less air means less bubbles. And don't use a huge tank for just one or two films.

Another recommendation: agitate gently.

Dear Laurent,

Is the foam an issue? I have used Xtol almost exclusively for about 10 years and while I do get foam (probably due to traces of photo-flo but I'm not certain), have never had a problem because of it.

Neal Wydra

I use Xtol 1:1 in 4x5 and 8x10 BTZS tubes and notice the foam in the developer when I am done. Has never been a problem.

Neal said:

Is the foam an issue?

Click to expand...

Thanks again for all your answers !

Neal, no it's not a real issue, except that when it's really bad I'm not sure if the agitation is OK or not (nothing seems to move in the tank when I reveres it).

I've always been taught to do gentle agitation (reverse the tank, wait for the liquid to settle (no more flowing noise), then bak to the "normal" position), but thanks for the suggestion.

The gentle agitation you describe is actually TOO gentle, you are at risk to get uneven streaks on your films. You don't need to move the tank like a cocktail shaker, but Kodak's description is quite clear:

"1. Fill the empty tank with developer.

2. Start the timer. In the dark, carefully place the loaded reel into the developer solution.

3. Quickly attach the top to the tank. Firmly tap the bottom of the tank against the work surface from a height of approximately 1inch (2.5cm) to dislodge air bubbles from the surface of the film. Air bubbles can interfere with development and produce low-density circles on the film.

4. Provide initial agitation of up to 5cycles, depending on your results. For KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films, provide initial agitation of 5 to 7 cycles in 5 seconds. For an invertible tank, one cycle consists of rotating the tank upside down and then back to the upright position. For a noninvertible tank, one cycle consists of sliding the tank back and forth over a 10-inch (25.4cm) distance. With tanks that have a handle for turning the reel, rotate the reel back and forth gently through about one-half turn at a rate of one cycle per second during initial and subsequent agitation. Steps2 through 4 will take approximately 7 to 20seconds, depending on the type of tank.

5. Let the tank sit for the remainder of the first 30 seconds.

6. After the first 30 seconds, agitate for 5 seconds at 30-second intervals. Agitation should consist of 2 to 5cycles, depending on the contrast you need and the type of tank."

There is no "waiting for the liquid to settle", there is no time to wait if you turn the tank 2 to 5 times within 5 seconds.

I am sure many people would like to see a Youtube video so that they are really sure how to do this. Kodak, you hear me?

BTW, most people I know close the tank and then fill the developer into the tank.

cmo : thanks for these precisions. I don't think my agitation is too gentle, but I may have badly exposed my process : when I say "wait for the liquid to settle", I mean I'm waiting for the noises (I suppose it's air flowing from one part of the tank to the other) to stop, then reverse the tank. My agitation gives 3 inversions in about 10 seconds and, in 100 rolls processed in XTol I only had streaks once, which may have been agitation issues (but I'm unsure since the marks are very consistent across the whole roll)

I'm filling the tank when closed and the film is already there, as most people you know ;-)

I never had probs with air bubbles until Afghanistan. I dont know what it is - water, static, dust, Satan....

I have tried everything believe me and minimised but not removed the issue. I am suspecting that it might be related to static and tiny amounts of dust that get everywhere and probably into the tank allowing air bubbles to form on the film. I get more of an issue with Xtol I think. This is my hunch and I will be using more DDX and Rodinal to see if I am right. I had the same with Ilfosol-S (worse for foam) and this is also ascorbate based, right? Hmmm, possible link? If so I will be ditching Xtol, as much as I like the results, because I am losing too many negs. DDX gives about the same speed and is more active it seems, but used 1+7 it seems controllable enough for harsh lighting. With Xtol 1+2 I struggle to blow highlights - its great!