X-tol

Lori V · May 16, 2008

Hey guys I'm new here and to the home darkroom so bear with me...

I shoot medium format and 35mm. Mostly Ilford HP5 for the medium format and either Neopan 1600 or the HP5 for the 35 mm.

I just tried X-tol for the first time with the medium format stuff. I'm doing a shoot tomorrow and want to try X-tol for all of the processing.

Do you recommend it?

fschifano · May 16, 2008

Heartily. XTOL is a very good developer. If you consider good sharpness, fine grain, and slightly enhanced film speed advantages, it is better than D-76. I like to use it 1+1 from stock as a 1 shot developer. Shadow details are rendered with slightly more density than with D-76, while the highlight densities are kept in check. Stories about the developer suddenly going bad without warning are ancient history. You can discount them. But like any developer, it can go bad except that this one does not change color when it does. I easily get six months from a batch by storing it in small (1L or less) bottles filled to the brim.

SuzanneR · May 16, 2008

Yes... and agree with Frank... it's a great developer for pushing film or shooting at box speed. It builds shadow detail nicely, and keeps the highlights from getting blown. The only time I don't reach for it is when I have photographed something high in contrast, and I want to pull the film, and lower or control the contrast. I find the negs just get very dense when I have exposed, say Tri-x or HP5 at 200. In that case I prefer D-76 or ID11.

And I've never had an issue with the fables "sudden death" of the developer. I find it easy enough to mix up, and tend to run through the 5 liters in no time!

Tony Egan · May 16, 2008

My developer of choice for most films regardless of format or brand. With halfway decent exposure you should never go wrong. I also prefer it to D76/ID11 for the extra shadow detail.
Likewise never experienced exhaustion/failure from the 5 litre packs. I store it in 5 litre wine/water/juice cask bladders which shrink as the liquid is used keeping it very fresh for long periods. Also mix 1+1 and dispose after use which is also a benefit in reliably establishing starting temperature of developer.

Lori V · May 16, 2008

Thanks everyone. I'm giving it a go tomorrow!

fschifano · May 16, 2008

Just took a look at your site. I'd say you had the process down really well, and you have that special people connection that pulls it all together. Kudos to you.

Zathras · May 16, 2008

No advice, just praise

I followed the link to your site and was very moved and inspired by your work. Thank you for putting it out there where I was able to see it.

Your work reminded me of just what got me into photography in the first place, and I think that you may have have helped me begin to finally begin to move out of a long stagnant period in my own photography. It has definitely helped to point me back into a direction I wanted to go in with my own work.

Thanks for the new inspiration,

Mike Sullivan

MikeSeb · May 17, 2008

Add mine to the kudos for Xtol. Best all-around developer I've used in my three-plus decades of film photography.

Your work is exceptional BTW. I really like your bio shot with the old motor-driven Nikon in front of your face.

But, GOD, how I HATE music on websites! Just me....since you asked.

Lori V · May 17, 2008

Mike Sullivan, WOW, you made my day!

Mike Seb...I hope you hit that mute button

It seems unanimous...Today is X-tol!!!

catem · May 17, 2008

Yes, I recommend it too. I use it both at stock and 1 : 1

Nice to see you here by the way

Jim Chinn · May 17, 2008

Xtol is one of my favorite developers. I have used it at dilutions of 1-3 with no problems. When you mix it you may end up with a few undisolved particles no matter how dlligent you are. I strain mine through a non-bleached coffee filter before bottling.

Also enjoyed your work. I can sense a great amount of joy and passion in the images. You should post a few in the gallery.

Doug Webb · May 17, 2008

Was going to reply that I use XTOL a lot and think of it as a great developer, but seems like you have already gotten that feedback. Looked at your website, all I can say is you are doing some amazing and quite moving work. I'm sure your clients are delighted. I hope you will post more on a gallery here.
Thanks,
Doug Webb

xtolsniffer · May 17, 2008

X-tol is the one for me, very easy to mix, lasts in 1L bottles for ages, develops just about everything, and great for pushing as well (FP4+ pushed to ISO 500 in X-tol is really rather lovely, quite a retro feel). I only hope Kodak still keeps making the stuff.......

steckmeyer · May 17, 2008

Lori,

Very impressive and inspiring. You have exceptional talent!!!

I converted to Xtol a year ago. Prior to that I did the developer odyssey in a quest for the magic juice. Xtol is pretty close. I use it for TriX, Tmax 100 and Ilford Ortho +. I shoot 35mm & MF. The TriX is for 35mm and N to N-- in the MF. Tmax 100 is for portraits, long exposures or N+ to N+++ situations in Mf. Ilford Ortho + is for unsharp masks. Considering your material, Tmax 100 and Xtol might be interesting especially if you are going bigger than 11 X 14 prints.

Keep up the great work and superior site.

hka · May 18, 2008

Who uses the Xtol in rotaryprocessors and what are your expiriences with that method?

Neal · May 18, 2008

Xtol in rotary processor.

hka said:
Who uses the Xtol in rotaryprocessors and what are your expiriences with that method?

Dear Harry,

I use Xtol in a Jobo processor using 25XX drums. It works just as it should. Kodak supplies detailed time/temperature data for rotary processors and, for me anyway, are quite accurate.

Neal Wydra

Jim Chinn · May 18, 2008

I use XTOL in a JOBO and have perfectly developed negatives. The JOBO instructions advise reducing developing times by about 15% due to the constant agitation. I usually use XTOL at 1-2 or 1-3 dillution and with the extended deveoping times have found no need to reduce times by that 15%.

MikeSeb · May 18, 2008

Jobo ATL-1500. Really great results, mostly due to consistent temps, times, and agitation (guess that covers it!) which I could never get doing it by hand. Crucial for T-max and Delta films especially.

I find that I have to reduce Kodak's published rotary processing times by another 10% or so. I use a presoak of 5 minutes (jobo's recommendation to improve evenness of development; not necessarily to Kodak's or Ilford's liking ), and that likely swells the gelatin enough to allow the developer "in" more. Since I scan my negatives (ducking head to avoid Wrath of Analog Gods here) I want them on the thin side--if you're printing conventionally this may not apply to you.

Best thing is, I have done hundreds of rolls, so I have a good idea how the setup will behave. I can usually nail the proper development time for a new film type after the first roll, and even that one is usually printable.

Tom Stanworth · May 19, 2008

fine grain, excellent speed, good highlight control and easy to use. I have had it 5 months in half filled plastic (brown ) bottles and found it is fine. Just did a film leader test first to check. Only deficiency is that it produces lower acutance than say D76 when both are used 1:1. Thats fine for films with a crisp grain structure but I would not be so willing to use it with a smoothie of a film such as Pan F (unless I wanted a very soft look). I find it great with TrIX, APX100 and Delta 100. Seems to really sing with the latter, keeping the grain crisp enough but very fine. great in 35mm. Paired with Fx-39 these two deliver comparable film speed, one being smooth as hell the other being sharp as hell. Handy....

hka · May 19, 2008

Thanks to all for your helpfull information on this subject.

Peter De Smidt · May 19, 2008

Do mix your Xtol with distilled water, and don't use it if the small packed is caked or yellowish. I love Xtol, but it can go bad quite suddenly and it doesn't change color when it's bad. If in doubt, do a clip test (develop a film leader-if it doesn't fairly quickly turn black mix up new developer.)

k8do · May 19, 2008

Lori V.
I like piano music... It needs to move along instead of just repeating...
I LIKE the pictures... Grain, I can actually see grain... Shallow depth of focus... Available light... In real houses... Real people without a even a smidgen of pancake and hairspray... Wonderful...

Yes, I have digital cameras... They are recorders... They record what I see... They are fast... They are handy... On saturday I shot 309 shots during a trip with my son and a friend... They are colorful records of a fun day...

But when I want a PICTURE, like you I get out Tri-X and go make pictures, not just a record... And I struggle in the darkroom trying to make a print...

Kepe going with your art... Don't give in to the darkside of the force and go digital... And monochrome images from a digital are not B&W... Anyway, my compliments...

denny

gainer · May 19, 2008

I would probably be using it too if I didn't have so much fun experimenting with my own mixes. It can never hurt, no matter which developer you use, to do a little snip test before serious work. Just snip a piece of 35 mm and develop it for 2 minutes in room light. If you do this when the developer is fresh, you will know what it should look like when it's not.

shicks5319 · May 19, 2008

Xtol

I have been considering Xtol for sometime and recently picked some up to try with my 35mm images. I just was not happy with what I was getting using the TMY-2 with HC-110.

My first roll of TMY-2 developed in Xtol 1+1 came came out beautifully. I shot the roll at box speed and developed at 20d for 9min. Part of the roll was used for some gray card testing, and part was used on some basic test shots (read chasing my wife around with a camera). The gray card testing seems to indicate that box speed is the EI to use and 9min placed my zone eight just under paper white.

I love this look!! Great combo.

Lori V · May 20, 2008

Lots of X-tol experience and wisdom here...thank you everyone.

I processed 8 rolls of HP5 shot at box speed this weekend...both 35mm and MF. 12 minutes in a 1:1 solution. I was very happy with the tonal range and detail. I do have some wierd marks on several of the negs...but I think its a water issue, not X-tol. I'm using hypoclear, a 10 minute final rinse, and then hang the negs in a dryer without any squeegie. I pull them out of the tanks and hang them as is. I don't think its working. I have a bad ass water filtration system...so I don't use distilled. Do you think it would make a difference? Do you sponge your negs? Finger swipe them?

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