Comparing speed and contrast between films or between processes, the sensitometer light did not make a significant difference in my darkroom.
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...ction-and-analysis.180579/page-2#post-2365797
The results speak for themselves. I can't add anything without suggesting bias.
Most B&W film on the market show similar sensitivity spectrum. Comparing two emulsions of drastically different sensitivity spectrumn will be fraught with potential errors irrespective of the light source.
All good points that I share.With respect, I'm going to have to remain skeptical. Plus, I'm probably the only one here who has a calibrated sensitometer. Technically, not anymore, but at one time calibrated by EG&G. . Even then someone at Kodak gave ma a hard time about using the wrong type of sensitometer.
This thread may have no value if the market changes so white and green/blue sensitometers are priced the same on the used market. In that case there would be no reason to use green/blue.
Is it even possible to find a "white" sensitometer that doesn't look like a dusty and dirty old relic of the 70's that's held together with duct tape, broken, and sold for parts and a high price? (Somehow every attempt to search for "EG&G" on eBay brings up results that look like this, but I have no idea what other options even exist to be found.)
Exactly. I eventually decided it would be easier (not easy) to just build my own makeshift device that would be good enough for photographic film and paper tests. It was not an enjoyable project at all.
If you are producing a product for sale, you might be one of the few on the forum that needs a calibrated instrument. Otherwise, for your personal photography, film calibration of the sensitometer works well. This is because ISO documentation does not specify development conditions for the film. So you specify the development conditions for yourself. Just be sure to also calibrate your meter to the film with in-camera testing.Is it even possible to find a "white" sensitometer that doesn't look like a dusty and dirty old relic of the 70's that's held together with duct tape, broken, and sold for parts and a high price? (Somehow every attempt to search for "EG&G" on eBay brings up results that look like this, but I have no idea what other options even exist to be found.)
Thanks for sharing.Just for fun, attached the calibration sheet from EG&G. I asked for a few extra readings.View attachment 274218
Sorry to wake the thread up,but I have a doubt that how I can use xrite sensitometers which were designed for x ray film which may have low speed,to meter high speed film.Won't the film be overexposure?It's believed that photography film can be faster than x ray film.According to my experience,x ray film often locates from ISO 50 to 100.
Another question is that how to know LOG E of different settings.Both 334's and 396's manual didn't mention this.
Thanks for answering.
In terms of light output adjustment. It depends on the unit:
This 334 uses dip switches on the bottom.
Wejex uses a rheostat on the bottom
EG&G recommends sheets of ND filter (which would work for just about any sensitometer).
99% of the time I'm only interested in the difference in Log e between two films. I have taken all my sensitometers apart to measure thebult-in step wedges on my calibrated densitometer.
If you look on-line there are places that will do a measurement of the light output. In fact last I checked there were two placed within driving distance of me.
Once I did work backwards from some Ilford Delta 100 to find the light output (based on the Ilford Delta by my definition being ISO 100).
Maybe I can use a Illuminometer to confirm the lux?
Once I did work backwards from some Ilford Delta 100 to find the light output (based on the Ilford Delta by my definition being ISO 100).
Sorry to bump this thread, but I have just received a X-rite 334 Sensitometer, and this is the best place on the internet to find knowledgeable users of such equipment and how better to use it!
Without means to compare my Sensitometer with any other reference, as this was already hard enough to get my hands on, I would appreciate very much if there was a step by step on how you worked backwards from Ilford Delta 100 to find the light output for it!
Thank you very much!
The step that produces 0.1 density on the Ilford Delta 100 film (processed to ASA criteria) should be 0.9 millilux-sec (the antilog of which would be 8).
Film speed = 800/(antilog of sensitometer exposure in millilux-sec)
100 = 800/x
x = 8
log 8 = 0.9
ISO 6 doesn't specify a developer. Manufacturers can use any developer and multiple developers if they wish. It does specify the developer needs to be listed.Thank you very much for these numbers!
I assume this is only true when using the ISO Standard Kodak D-76 Developer? I currently use XTOL, but I can purchase D76 just for these calibration process.
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