X-ray film

awty · Nov 19, 2018

Hi
I have a box of Agfa curix ortho ht-l 100nif 14 x17
Im building a film holder and a adjustable focal length pinhole camera (box in a box), could add another box and use a lens if I can find something affordable.
I will develop using pyrocat hd Andrew Oneal mentioned that he used (10ml of A and B in 1000ml water) in a flat-bottomed tray. I was wondering if a drum roller would work as the film is double sided?
Also what would be a ball park figure for reciprocity? Im assuming its 100 iso, but cant seem to find anything to confirm.
Anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks.

Andrew O'Neill · Nov 19, 2018

O'Neill... actually. Yes, I use 10ml each of A and B in 1000ml water. Flat-bottomed tray. I personally, wouldn't recommend a drum roller, unless the solutions can get to the side of the film that is against the drum. Complete and evendevelopment of both sides is important. I once tried developing with BTZS tubes and it was a disaster. There is only one way to find out and that is to give it a go. There are people who bleach off the emulsion from that side if it is buggered... but you literally cut the density range in half. I experimented with that method and in the end, it's not worth it. I could not get decent DR for printing in carbon.

awty · Nov 19, 2018

Andrew O'Neill said:
O'Neill... actually. Yes, I use 10ml each of A and B in 1000ml water. Flat-bottomed tray. I personally, wouldn't recommend a drum roller, unless the solutions can get to the side of the film that is against the drum. Complete and evendevelopment of both sides is important. I once tried developing with BTZS tubes and it was a disaster. There is only one way to find out and that is to give it a go. There are people who bleach off the emulsion from that side if it is buggered... but you literally cut the density range in half. I experimented with that method and in the end, it's not worth it. I could not get decent DR for printing in carbon.

Thank you mr O'Neill I will grad a couple of suitable trays and try to proof read before I post. Learn from others and waste less film.

Rick A · Nov 19, 2018

I use a drum roller with PMK, 1+2+100 for x-ray film. I first did experiments using tray development to determine a base time, then fine tuned it for the drum.

awty · Nov 20, 2018

Rick A said:
I use a drum roller with PMK, 1+2+100 for x-ray film. I first did experiments using tray development to determine a base time, then fine tuned it for the drum.

Thanks for the reply Rick.
No problem with developing both sides of the films emulsion in the drum? Does your drum have ribs? I have a 6" drum with out ribs.
I dont have problem using a tray if I can do it under safe light. Only draw back is needing more developer.....maybe?

Rick A · Nov 20, 2018

I use a

awty said:
Thanks for the reply Rick.
No problem with developing both sides of the films emulsion in the drum? Does your drum have ribs? I have a 6" drum with out ribs.
I dont have problem using a tray if I can do it under safe light. Only draw back is needing more developer.....maybe?

Unicolor drum, there are ribs. The only time I've had issues is when I loaded the film wrong and caught the wrong rib instead of the film track which forced the back of the film against some ribs, leaving stripes on the negative. I use 250ml of chems to develop 80 sq inches(2-5x7). If you develop in trays, place a sheet of glass in the bottom if they aren't smooth. Use a dark red filter on the safelight, 20 watt max bulb at least 5-6 feet from work area to avoid fogging film.

Andrew O'Neill · Nov 20, 2018

I've been using an amber coloured safelight for years with no fogging issues...on several brands of xray.

awty · Nov 20, 2018

Rick A said:
I use a

Unicolor drum, there are ribs. The only time I've had issues is when I loaded the film wrong and caught the wrong rib instead of the film track which forced the back of the film against some ribs, leaving stripes on the negative. I use 250ml of chems to develop 80 sq inches(2-5x7). If you develop in trays, place a sheet of glass in the bottom if they aren't smooth. Use a dark red filter on the safelight, 20 watt max bulb at least 5-6 feet from work area to avoid fogging film.

Thanks for the tip about the glass and safe light.

awty · Nov 20, 2018

Andrew O'Neill said:
I've been using an amber coloured safelight for years with no fogging issues...on several brands of xray.

Thanks, my amber filter needs replacing so I will just try the red first......guess I better finish the camera and get snapping.

awty · Nov 24, 2018

What does unexposed xray film look like?
Mine is darkly tinted and slightly blotchy.
I did get an image but it is very dense and even the borders look dense.
I processed an unexposed piece in a drum roller and it too was dark and slightly blotchy.
It was new old stock and no telling how old.
Will just get some new stuff.

Edit: just fixed a piece of undeveloped film and it cleared to a slight tint, so film must way out of date.

Andrew O'Neill · Nov 24, 2018

It shouldn't be blotchy. So, an unexposed sheet had some density? If it's old, it's probably fog.

awty · Nov 24, 2018

Andrew O'Neill said:
It shouldn't be blotchy. So, an unexposed sheet had some density? If it's old, it's probably fog.

Yes density in the unexposed developed film and clear in the fixed only film.

Would" HRU 1417 FUJI GREEN X-RAY FILM" be ok?
Will be using for vandyke brown contact printing mostly.

Vaughn · Nov 25, 2018

The Large Format Photography Forum has a long-runng thread on using x-ray film you might be interested in:

http://www.largeformatphotography.i...film-technical-discussion-with-example-images

awty · Nov 25, 2018

Vaughn said:
The Large Format Photography Forum has a long-runng thread on using x-ray film you might be interested in:

http://www.largeformatphotography.i...film-technical-discussion-with-example-images

Oh no! The dreaded 501page xray thread, thought I would be safe here asking a few dumb questions.
First page has about 5 conflicting opinions.
Thanks anyhow.
Seems pretty straight forward I just get a little daunted when first doing something new.

Andrew O'Neill · Nov 25, 2018

awty said:
Yes density in the unexposed developed film and clear in the fixed only film.

Would" HRU 1417 FUJI GREEN X-RAY FILM" be ok?
Will be using for vandyke brown contact printing mostly.

It should be fine. I've been using double-sided green at that size as well as 8x10 for carbon and kallitypes. Works great.

koraks · Nov 29, 2018

awty said:
Yes density in the unexposed developed film and clear in the fixed only film.

Fog from age, chemical fogging or (most likely) inappropriate 'safe' light. Safe lights that work just fine with paper do not necessarily play nice with x-ray film. I wasted quite a few sheets of x-ray film to learn that there is red light, and then there is red light.

awty · Nov 29, 2018

koraks said:
Fog from age, chemical fogging or (most likely) inappropriate 'safe' light. Safe lights that work just fine with paper do not necessarily play nice with x-ray film. I wasted quite a few sheets of x-ray film to learn that there is red light, and then there is red light.

No light is fine, film is dead. Was with a bunch of old photo paper, could be more than 20 years old, no worries I will get new film.

koraks · Nov 29, 2018

You can still use it as a temporary support for carbon tissue!

Kawaiithulhu · Dec 1, 2018

Quick note: if you end up experimenting later, Ektascan B/RA is a single sided emulsion variety of XRay film, while I haven't spent any time with it to tame the contrast I have no trouble just dropping it into a jobo tube and it develops fine without worrying about the backside. It's considerably simpler to work with because of that.
(yes, it is still very sensitive to scratching, you can never get away from that)

juan · Dec 1, 2018

I’ve largely solved the scratching problem by developing in Pyrocat HD. I think the pyro is tanning the emulsion and making it less prone to scratching.

Kawaiithulhu · Dec 2, 2018

juan said:
I’ve largely solved the scratching problem by developing in Pyrocat HD. I think the pyro is tanning the emulsion and making it less prone to scratching.

Oh, that's a good idea! I'm going to try that next time I experiment.

Andrew O'Neill · Dec 2, 2018

...and that's what I thought about Pyrocat-HD's tanning effect, but for me no scratches was the result of using flat-bottomed trays. I also don't get scratches in Blazinol, or extremely dilute Ilford MG developer.

juan · Dec 3, 2018

I develop in hangers, so maybe pyro has nothing to do with it. Try everything, use what works.

Andrew O'Neill · Dec 3, 2018

Ooh you're brave! For me I find using hangers difficult to avoid surge marks. I like them for semi-stand/stand development.

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