OP
OP
It\s possible to break down visualization in general into micro steps. Whether there is a previs... or just plain vis.. or more smaller steps to go from not even thinking of going out to actual exposure, does it make a difference? This is dissecting a non existent problem that has no impact on how one decides in the end to press the shutter.I was under the impression that pre-visualization is visualizing the final print before the exposure and post-visualization is visualizing the final print after the test print has been made.
It\s possible to break down visualization in general into micro steps. Whether there is a previs... or just plain vis.. or more smaller steps to go from not even thinking of going out to actual exposure, does it make a difference? This is dissecting a non existent problem that has no impact on how one decides in the end to press the shutter.
Think of pre and post as:You may be right but I was trying to understand the jargon used by many here. Surely, some think breaking down visualization into actionable mini steps is key to the success of their photography. Based on what little I understood of pre-visualization and post-visualization, it is fairly obvious that they are different at least in terms of the actions one takes in those steps.
Think of pre and post as:
- pre is what you evaluate before your eyes that is BEFORE you take a shot and even before you set up the camera , so the more experience matching what you thought you were going to get to end result (print), the more successful that PRE becomes (seeing into the future might be the word)
- post is a step AFTER PRE is considered done, so call it RE (evaluation), a step that might come into play once PRE is finished and once some metering of a scene took place, things might look somewhat different, so look at it again and reconsider (if that is the case).
Yes, and how do you "see" that print? By shooting, printing, evaluating, having notes, going back to them, having a digital snap of the scene is a big helping hand in that too.Oh I thought pre-visualization is the complete mental construction of the final print just by looking at the scene, i.e. being able to "see" the final print in every detail in one's mind. This ability to mentally construct the final print, I thought, is something only very few gifted photographers have and some reach there by sheer determination and hard-work. Once you have seen the final print in your mind, you take steps to realize the physical print which is identical to the mental print. And this physical realization is mostly technical skill that any well-trained person can hope to achieve by practice. What differentiates great photographers from lesser ones is the imagination, i.e., being able to "see" the final print in every detail in one's mind just by looking at the scene.
Now, being able to mentally construct the final print by looking at the negative or test print is post-visualization. If you have already pre-visualized, then this step is basically remembering the mental construct of the pre-visualization step. Otherwise, post-visualization, I guess, is important if you are printing someone else's negatives as you don't have access to the photographer's mental construct of the final print.
This is my layman attempt to understand of pre and post. I'll stop here.
This is where my "crap shoot" comes from. To me if negative is exposed/processed optimally, all else is done in darkroom, and for some all that time at the scene makes all the difference.Are you going to be so stubborn that you'll insist on matching what you visualized even if there is a better solution?
Raghu,
IMHO, you got it right.
Thank you for bringing clarity to this thread.
Happy Holidays to you and yours.
Kind regards,
Darr
This is where my "crap shoot" comes from. To me if negative is exposed/processed optimally, all else is done in darkroom, and or some all that time at the scene makes all the difference.
There's a lot to be said for serendipity.But what, if you need more time and you need to pee, but are in a place where doing it in the open would have locked you up? I like to avoid these kind of hair pulling compromises of holding it in, because I need to do more visualization, 'cause if I don't that photo ain't good enough? Then even, if I could take a legal leak on short notice, my brain would still be visualizing as I'm doing it. That is not healthy at all.
I treat visualization as part of the photographic process from originally seeing the scene to framing the print...instead of trying to divide the visualization into unique parts. Others work differently with great success. As I hear it said in Australia once, "It's much of a muchness."
Alan -- my subject is the light. Happy new year!
We would have to now define composition. To me it covers everything that makes the print, including textures/tones etc. as all of it creates the visual message.When it comes to creating a darkroom print, composition may or may not be most important.
Some prints succeed because of how they look as a print - tones, textures, colours, even paper surface.
Others become almost invisible - like a window looking into another world.
And some are mixtures of the two.
In most cases, if you are going to be looking at an image on a screen, more weight will have to be given to the composition, because some of the other variables won't be available.
When Adams or White or Bullock were involved in visualization, those characteristics that are particular to the darkroom print would most likely have been part of that visualization.
I can assure you, the scene photographed here bore only a passing resemblance to the prints I have made of it:
View attachment 293969
We would have to now define composition. To me it covers everything that makes the print, including textures/tones etc. as all of it creates the visual message.
Sometimes I take a full frame and play with cropping it up into all kids of different dimensions. It's a fun game at composing and recomposing from same shot.
Thank you. It is too easy to talk technical, and too challenging (and at times socially dangerous) to talk aesthetics, especially by critiquing someone else's work.When a print is primarily judged as being successful because of tonality alone you can bet your bottom dollar it's being reviewed by another photographer with minimal understanding of art appreciation.
I can't count how many crappy images I have been handed by photographers who believe it's MOMA material. When I ask them what makes this print good they generally point to some highlight they were able to retain or some boring detail in the shadows they captured. Their concern for what's going on in the rest print seems to have escaped their attention.
To make a truly expressive print is complex and hard work. Unfortunately many photographers spend a lot of time mastering the zone system and then stop there.
To much time is spent on technical matters and other arcane things on Photrio and not enough time discussing what makes an image "work" as a piece of art.
Maybe Photrio is the techie/nerd forum and there is a better forum for those who want to further their journey in the world of expressive, impactful imagery.
Just mho.
Sure, here it is; framing is part of composing. I can't see how the two can be separated. Cropping is framing, just done later. At camera set up, framing makes the boundaries within which all elements fall.Composition? How about this:
Composition is the relationship between the elements of a photographic subject, front to back and side to side. The photographer places the camera so that the desired compositional relationship is achieved. The subject does not tell the camera where to go to "fit everything in"; the photographer's compositional preference rules.
Framing? How about this:
Framing is the photographer's considered action to place the edges of the photograph so as to best contain the composition. Framing can be done in camera or in the darkroom. Personally I never move the camera to change framing because that alters composition. I'll use a wider angle lens to "fit everything in" so it's the way I want to see it and then crop later.
The underlying premise is that composition is not framing but both are powerful choices in making expressive photographs. Maybe there are alternative opinions.
If you just stick to the idea that meter shows middle grey result, then learn how to identify that middle grey within the scene, take a reading of that, and you're god knows good to go most of the time for "good enough" negative to print from. Only in odd lighting conditions this is not exactly so.Dont take this the wrong way, but it helps to illustrate some points here.
I cannot understand most of the data shown on film data sheets, about curves, gamma, etc. I dont get the zone system at all because if it was as infallible as Adams claimed it was, why was he having to dodge and burn the print as much as he did?
What matters is never really talked about in books i have found.
I mean thigns like
"how do i take a nice photo using my light meter that the meter is balanced correctly, BUT at the same time create a negative that is not to dark or too light to make a print from"
If you just stick to the idea that meter shows middle grey result, then learn how to identify that middle grey within the scene, take a reading of that, and you're god knows good to go most of the time for "good enough" negative to print from. Only in odd lighting conditions this is not exactly so.
As for taking that "nice photo", look around for images you appreciate from that "nice" perspective, keep checking similar and try to emulate at first. The more images you see from others, the more samples sink in and they start to impact how YOU see. There are no shortcuts to making "nice photos". Good thing these days is digital, which allows eye training at practically zero cost with camera in every phone. Then get one of those viewfinder apps that make it closer to using an actual camera/lens combination and continue on that learning journey.
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