Want to Buy WTB: Marshalls Oil Colors

[Pipyr]

I just received a set of these that I purchased off of ebay, and although they were still sealed, it appears the oil leaked out through the seems in the back, which wasn't mentioned Bummer! I'm hoping someone out there may have some that aren't dried up that they lost interest in and would be willing to sell? Thanks!

 

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[Russianskater90]

Hey Pipyr. I have a full set that's never been used. No leakage, I promise! It's the 15 color "hobby" set. How's $30 shipped sound?

 

[haslguitar]

Hey there! If Pipyr doesn't go for that, I will.
-Cody

 

[eddie]

It's not unusual for the tubes to leak a bit (especially with older tubes). As long as they're still pliable, the paint is fine. If the paint is a little thicker than you want, add a little extender.

 

[Pipyr]

Russ, I sent you a PM Thanks! Eddie, The tubes are so hard one broke in half when I was hoping I could squeeze a little bit from the middle somehow. Not a chance, lol.

 

[EdSawyer]

You can use regular oil paints for handcoloring. There's nothing really that special about the marshalls though they are supposedly more 'intense' (e.g. less filler? )

 

[Pipyr]

Thanks, everyone! I have a set coming to me! Ed, that is good to know, thanks!

 

[eddie]

As Ed said, any oils will work, but you want to get good quality ones. You're applying the oils so thinly that good pigments are important. Winsor-Newton & Holbein oils work well. Sometimes a little Extender, or Linseed Oil, helps to thin them. If you live near an art supply store, you'll often find good sales prices on oil paints. The hand-colored work I've posted in the Gallery are a combination of Marshall's, W-N, Holbein, and other quality paints.
Can't wait to see you post some...

 

[EdSawyer]

Another tip re: handcoloring is doing multiple layers. If you can't get the intensity you want of the colors using regular oils, you can let the print dry for a while, then do a 2nd layer of color over the first. It will add to the intensity of the color. I did a whole series of handcolored prints back in the early 90s, and may get back into it again sometime. Probably not that many people doing it anymore, these days.

 

[Pipyr]

Thank you all for the tips! I played around with the holbein oils I have on some RC prints. It will definitely require a few layers, but it seems like the results will be nice Made my first FB prints today so hopefully I'll be messing around with the Marshalls oils on some FB prints by early next week! This week's project has turned into Bromoil prints and I also have easylith and bleach on the way, lol. Nothing like taking it one thing at a time, huh? Anyway, thanks again; I'll post the results once I have stuff to show!

 

[eddie]

You'll find it easier on mat fiber. Most RC surfaces don't have enough "tooth" to hold the oils, unless you spray them (Marshall's makes something called Pre-Color Spray). I hope you're also trying pencils. They're great for detail areas.

"This week's project has turned into Bromoil prints and I also have easylith and bleach on the way, lol. Nothing like taking it one thing at a time, huh?" Now you're sounding like me. I've been struggling with Bromoil for a few months. Close, but no cigar... Please post with your experience.

 

[EdSawyer]

Agreed, forget doing oil on RC paper. It won't soak in and will just rub off and look poor since it sits on the surface. Even glossy FB is not ideal, in my experience. The ideal medium is matte finish fiberbase paper. Also as mentioned oil pencils are great for small areas. A white plastic-type works great for removing overpainted areas. Something like this:

http://www.staples.com/Staedtler-Mars-Plastic-Erasers-4-Pack/product_274795