Wrong ISO Setting

[Rick-in-LB]

I grabbed my camera this afternoon and a roll of film. I thought I grabbed the 100 ISO film and set the camera for it. After shooting the roll I opened the camera and noticed it was actually 400 ISO. I got some really good shots on this roll. How can I save it. Would I develop the roll at 100 or 400. The film was 400 Tmax. I could use D76 or HC110. Any help on this one.
I was thinking of developing for 100 using HC110 at 1:63 and correcting for Temp. Would I be correct on my thinking or am I really of base.

Thanks
Rick

 

[Brandon D.]

The expensive way and time consuming way to solve the dilemma is to shoot some more TMAX 400 at ISO 100, and test out various methods of developing it.

 

[removed account4]

hi rick

while it seems like you made a major error
i wouldn't worry too much, you pretty much
over exposed your film by 1 stop ...
kodak's film data sheets suggest
that shooting tmax 400 at asa 200 would be processed
as if you shot it normally at 400.

you can search digital truth to find the time + temp
for over exposing your film 1 stop. ( or read your favorite developer's
data sheet ) ... i have never used
d76 or hc 110 so i can't really give you much advice,
but from my own experience, you are far better off
over exposing your film by 1 or stops, than underexposing
tmax400 by 4 stops

good luck!

john

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

If the pictures were indeed important enough to merit the level of effort required then I would recommend re-shooting a stand-in subject under the same lighting conditions and trying several development schemes to find what works best.

If it isn't worth that level of effort then I would use D-76 1:1 and reduce development time by 25%.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I was thinking of developing for 100 using HC110 at 1:63 and correcting for Temp.

I am not sure what you mean by 'correcting for Temp'. If it is the regular adjustment for the developer temperature then, yes, by all means. Take the development time for the temperature and then reduce it by the percentage you desire.

The best results, however, will always be at 68F. If quality is what is desired then doing what it takes to develop at 68F can be worth it.

If you are shooting 35mm then I would pick D-76 over HC-110, no reservations, qualifications or exceptions.

 

[Rick-in-LB]

It is hard for me to get my solution down to 68deg . I leave my solution outside at night and try to develop early in the mornings on weekends. When the weather cools off a bit it would be easier and I don't have to do a temperature correction. I just made up a batch of stock solution of D76 and set it outside. Out of the roll of 24 there were a few I could not duplicate, natural lighting through a window. I will give it a try at 1+3 and hope for the best.

 

[dancqu]

Any help on this one. Thanks Rick

No problem. Use a developer which delivers
normal negatives but does not deliver full film
speed. Microdol and Perceptol come to mind but
I may need correction. I do know though that
some developers deliver less film speed than
others. Some others should chime in. Dan

 

[mrtoml]

No problem. Use a developer which delivers
normal negatives but does not deliver full film
speed. Microdol and Perceptol come to mind but
I may need correction. I do know though that
some developers deliver less film speed than
others. Some others should chime in. Dan

I recently had this problem with HP5 accidentally shot at 100. Ilford's HP5 datasheet recommends a speed reducing developer in this instance and gives times (using Perceptol).

Maybe for Tmax there is something similar.

 

[pentaxuser]

Perceptol will certainly reduce speed by one stop so box speed of 400 drops to 200. One stop over which not ideal perhaps is unlikely to be critical. As others have said you could then experiment with a sacrificial TMax400 at 100 in a speed dropping dev and see the results before developing your more important film. If there's a deadline on developing this film or you can't wait and I can understand that, then a clip test is an option provided that one of the first few frames can be sacrificed completely by cutting throught it and the others are acceptable even if it turns out they are not ideally processsed by the speed reducing dev. Developing the clip gets you knowledge of what will happen to the rest fairly quickly.

If the clip negs are only just about OK and you think that one or more of the "once in a lifetime frame(s) wouldn't be good enough from the look of the clip tested negs then I'll have to pass on giving further advice.

Further rescue advice needs more knowledge and experience than I have got.

Best of luck

pentaxuser

 

[Rick-in-LB]

Well they came out! Thanks for the help. I did the D76 1+3 for 7 min. I forgot to comp for the temp, solution was at 74 deg's but it worked ok.
Here are a couple

The small adjustments I can straighten out in printing.

If I ever do that again at least I will not worry as much and sort of know how to fix it. Thanks again

Rick

 

[srs5694]

It is hard for me to get my solution down to 68deg . I leave my solution outside at night and try to develop early in the mornings on weekends.

There have been endless threads on this topic on APUG. To sum up, though, you can use a water bath to bring the temperature down: Chill enough water to fill a small basin (a dishpan works well) to a bit below your target temperature, then put your chemistry bottles in that basin. In a few minutes, the solution will be suitably cooled. If you don't quite achieve the target temperature, you can pour out a bit of water from the bath and pour in some more at a colder temperature. This procedure works quite well. It also works well in reverse (and is very common in color processing using small tanks).

Another alternative is to use a so-called tropical developer, which is formulated to work at higher temperatures than the typical 20C or so.

Chances are one of these methods will work for you.