Step | Time at 20ºC, min |
First Developer | Depends on film and chemistry, for low ISO films and D-67 developer it's 7 min |
Wash | 5 |
Toner (see below) | 1 |
Wash | 5 |
Bleach (see below) | 5 (?) |
Wash | 5 |
Acid Fixer | 10 |
Wash | 5 |
Water | 900 mL |
Potassium Ferricyanide anhydrous | 40 g |
*or Potassium Ferricyanide trihydrate | 47 g |
Sodium Bromide anhydrous | 25 g |
*or Potassium Bromide | 30 g |
Water to make | 1 L |
That's a clever and very interesting way of obtaining slides. The sepia tone adds some uniqueness to it.
I was wondering which film you used and if you've got any sort of emulsion damage (actually it's not the emulsion that fails but the subbing layer - but let's refer to it as emulsion damage).
Could you use C41 bleach or RA4 Blix with this process, do you think?
That's a very interesting process. Could you use C41 bleach or RA4 Blix with this process, do you think? I might have to try.
I'm pretty sure you can use C41 bleach or blix
bleach yes, blix no I suppose...
This is very interesting and I will give it a try. But wasn't thiourea a strong fogging agent?
It can be if you put an undeveloped film in contact with it (in its pure form)
But wasn't thiourea a strong fogging agent?
My thought was that one must be very careful not to contaminate the room with this chemical...
There's some wildly overblown warnings about this online. I've used thiourea in several applications in my darkroom for years, and not just once or twice, but regularly. Not a single unintended fogging event noticed to date, ever.
Not a single unintended fogging event noticed to date, ever.
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