WOLLENSAK 1" (25mm) f/1.8 Raptar Lens

[Caroline Waterman]

I am looking for info on this lens. Will it work on a 4x5 camera? There is one on ebay for $49.99 that ends in 10 minutes.

 

[Rick A]

You can basically adapt anything to a LF camera, but will it cover the format. I have a 25mm lens here somewhere that I stuck on my 4x5, it covered doing macro, but other than that was worthless. What do you want it to do?

 

[Caroline Waterman]

I am interested in finding a vintage type diffused lense for some portrait and landscape work I wanted to start, so I am really just trolling ebay to try to find something without paying a fortune.

 

[Rick A]

What format, 4x5, 5x7,?? I have an ancient brass 5x8 Wollensak(210mm) scavenged from a Seneca 5x7 set in a Betax #2 shutter that I can let go of for a reasonable price. It isn't diffused, but a sweet lens none the less.

 

[John Koehrer]

I am looking for info on this lens. Will it work on a 4x5 camera? There is one on ebay for $49.99 that ends in 10 minutes.

Isn't that a cine lens?

 

[tedr1]

No it doesn't work for 4x5 because the film holder would need to be one inch (25mm) from the lens, which most if not all 4x5 will not allow, distances in the range from about 90mm and upwards are more usual. This means the lens can't be focused on the film, they can't be brought close enough.

The second problem is coverage, if the image could be focused, which it can't, the image would be a small circle in the middle of the 4x5 film, approximately 25mm across, this is not a good use of 4x5 film.

The normal range of lenses for 4x5 is approximately 90mm (expensive wide angle) 150mm (inexpensive standard) and 250mm (expensive long).

 

[Jim Jones]

As Rick A suggested above, these movie lenses can be reverse mounted on large cameras to take extreme close-ups of tiny subjects, but not as a substitute for ordinary lenses. Also, depth of field is extremely small when these lenses are used in this mode. The shortest lens that works well on some 4x5 cameras is a 90mm. Other 4x5 cameras accept down to 65 or occasionally even shorter lenses. For many portraits, a longer than normal lens is often preferred. My all-time favorite lens on 4x5 is an Ektar 203mm f/7.7. However, it gives a sharp, not diffused, image. Some photographers are content to use a diffusing filter on an otherwise sharp lens. This permits one lens to serve for both sharp and somewhat soft photos.

 

[Dan Fromm]

The OP's question reveals a basic misunderstanding. Wollensak doesn't mean soft focus. Very few of Wollensak's lens types were soft focus lenses.

OP, you're searching for buried treasure. Nice idea, there's a little still around but there's really not very much. So good luck, have fun and learn to recognize buried treasure and the signs that you're standing on top of some before you start digging. These days most of what's buried is just rotting garbage.

 

[jim10219]

The problem with a soft portrait lens is they usually don't make good landscape lenses.

However, I would suggest a rapid rectilinear type lens. They're old designs, but they're also pretty common and usually relatively cheap. They don't have the characteristic swirl of a Petzval, or the modern coatings which help keep the cost down. Though the shutters may require some work, but they usually come in compound shutters which aren't too terribly hard to work on if you're mechanically inclined and don't require any new parts.

Stopped down, they look a lot like a modern lens. Wide open, they have a more vintage look with some softness. You can also remove either the front or back lens element which will double the focal length (and aperture), and introduce more aberrations (character).

Another option might be a Tessar type. They're decent portrait lenses, do pretty well at distances, and can often be found pretty cheap. They're not great at macro, but you can slightly unscrew one of the lens elements to extend the distance between them and create a soft focus type feel.

Look for something 135mm-300mm in focal length. Those should cover 4x5 at infinity, though the shorter focal lengths won't leave you much room for movements.

 

[Caroline Waterman]

Thank you all for the information, it is very helpful. Dan, you are right I am still learning about large format and lenses which is why this group is a helpful tool for me. My cameras are a Wista Field camera and a Cambo rail camera and I use either a Rodenstock 150 or 210 lense. I am looking to shoot some work with a little more antique feel to it, some of the artists whose work I admire appear to be shooting with antique lenses so I am trying to learn more about lenses, old and new, for these cameras. Jim, thank you for the suggestions, I will look into all of them. Rick, can you send me some information on you lense, and how much you want for it.

 

[removed account4]

hi caroline

you might look for big old folders ( "vest cameras" ) the ones like a kodak 3a autographic or
something equally as large and either sheet filmy or roll filmy. depending on the camera it might give you the look you are after
it will also come in a shutter and sometimes you will luck out and it will cover/illuminate focus on
your whole 4x5 negative. you might also look for one of reinhold's wollaston meniscus lenses.
he is an apug member and makes/sells barrel lenses for 4x5 ( and larger ) cameras. it might not have a shutter
( although he makes those too ! ) so you might have to improvise with a lens cap or pair of film holders.
not sure if you hope to shoot color or b/w but sometimes these lenses do beautiful things to color when shot wide open
( and they can be sharp as nails stopped down ).
ALSO you might look for a symmar convertible. "converted" ( front element off ) they are described
by schneider as a portrait and landscape lens. from what i understand they are a plasmat design
.. but be aware they take MORE bellows than the converted focal length suggests so if you get a 210/370 ( for example )
both lens cells attached to the shutter / barrel it is a 210, front element off it is a 370, and takes about 450mm of bellows to focus at infinity.

good luck !
john

 

[Dan Fromm]

Is this http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOLLENSAK-1...s-Heavy-Alphax-Duty-Shutter-390-/352116688989 it?

The only thing large formatish about it is that the idiot seller listed it as an LF lens.

It isn't antique either. It is coated (that's what the CW on the trim ring means) and it is badged "Raptar." Both started in 1946. Not exactly old-timey. And it is a Tessar type -- that's what plain vanilla Raptars are -- and this class of lens, even though first brought to market in 1903 is as modern as can be.

OP, the "antique feel" is due more to film, paper and processing than to the lenses used.

 

[Caroline Waterman]

Is this http://www.ebay.com/itm/WOLLENSAK-1...s-Heavy-Alphax-Duty-Shutter-390-/352116688989 it?

The only thing large formatish about it is that the idiot seller listed it as an LF lens.

It isn't antique either. It is coated (that's what the CW on the trim ring means) and it is badged "Raptar." Both started in 1946. Not exactly old-timey. And it is a Tessar type -- that's what plain vanilla Raptars are -- and this class of lens, even though first brought to market in 1903 is as modern as can be.

OP, the "antique feel" is due more to film, paper and processing than to the lenses used.

Hi, Thanks for the info! As far as achieving the antique feel through processing, my process of choice are PT/PL and Lith so I get what you are saying. Can you recommend a film? I use Arista paper for lith and Hannamule Platinum rag for PT/PL but could you also recommend another darkroom paper for silver gelatin?

 

[ChuckP]

This site has some info on soft focus lenses: Dead Link Removed
You may have already seen it.