I have a Nikon N6006. It has all the standard settings. PASM. But when I travelled on vacation, I kept it on P most of the time and it did fine. So, I operated it like a P&S. So what? In most cases it;s smarter than me.
I have a Nikon N6006. It has all the standard settings. PASM. But when I travelled on vacation, I kept it on P most of the time and it did fine. So, I operated it like a P&S. So what? In most cases it;s smarter than me.The thing with P&S cameras is that they allow access to film images for people who just want nice film images, with an all in one compact convenience, and not having to think too much about it.
It is a fun carefree way of shooting, and anything that encourages people to use film is a good thing.
The downsides are lack of control (apertures, speeds etc).
Just another tool.
Still have the Trip 35 that was my first serious camera (ie not an Instamatic). Still use it, but I'm amazed by the quality some people can squeeze out of it. Monica Weller on Flickr makes rather good photos that are far sharper than a zone focus camera ought to be! Have a look: https://www.flickr.com/photos/copperknob2011/with/51782845029/
It was her photos that inspired me to make a handheld rangefinder card for the Trip 35. It certainly helps, but even so, I don't have her unerring instinct for the right distance setting. Forgive the iPhone photo:
You can ignore the hyperfocal distances for various apertures, and look at the top of the card. I hold the card in my right hand with my arm fully extended. Using my left eye only, I place the zero at the top left corner on the subject, then swap eyes (closing the left and opening the right) and I read off the distance of the subject from it's new place along the distance scale which is in meters. It works!
It’s even more genious to calibrate the fold wrinkles on your index finger and use the thumb as the reference.Wow, this is genius!!!
I guess I was not as clear.They were not optically inferior except to Leica and Hasselblad. The optics were very good for what the cameras originally costs and the cameras were convenient and easy to use. Nothing to complain about.
I guess I was not as clear.
I never understood why people spend insane amount of money on PAS.
No Point and shoot is worth $1000 to $4000. Especially considering there is pretty much no service.
I guess I was not as clear.
I never understood why people spend insane amount of money on PAS.
No Point and shoot is worth $1000 to $4000. Especially considering there is pretty much no service.
a trip 35 for $50 - $100 is fun. But everything over is FOR ME a waste of money.
I got a Minolta/Leitz CL with 40mm F2 minolta Rokkor II for way less than many of the high end PAS cameras.
Aren't they quieter than 35mm SLRs?There is one problem I have with P&S cameras. They all are noisy. Every single one of them that i have tried - from Contax to whatever the cheapest one I had..
And so for discrete photography they pretty much only allow you one shot before you are noticed and have to move on. In situations like that, cameras with mechanical wind on are much quieter. Some excellent tiny compact ones are the Ricoh FF1, Chinon Bellami, Rollei 35 etc. Zone focus and pretty much silent to use.
If noise isn't an issue - and most times it isn't - regular P&S cameras are great.
There is one problem I have with P&S cameras. They all are noisy. Every single one of them that i have tried - from Contax to whatever the cheapest one I had..
And so for discrete photography they pretty much only allow you one shot before you are noticed and have to move on. In situations like that, cameras with mechanical wind on are much quieter. Some excellent tiny compact ones are the Ricoh FF1, Chinon Bellami, Rollei 35 etc. Zone focus and pretty much silent to use.
If noise isn't an issue - and most times it isn't - regular P&S cameras are great.
Aren't they quieter than 35mm SLRs?
There is one problem I have with P&S cameras. They all are noisy. Every single one of them that i have tried - from Contax to whatever the cheapest one I had..
And so for discrete photography they pretty much only allow you one shot before you are noticed and have to move on. In situations like that, cameras with mechanical wind on are much quieter. Some excellent tiny compact ones are the Ricoh FF1, Chinon Bellami, Rollei 35 etc. Zone focus and pretty much silent to use.
If noise isn't an issue - and most times it isn't - regular P&S cameras are great.
There is one problem I have with P&S cameras. They all are noisy. Every single one of them that i have tried - from Contax to whatever the cheapest one I had..
And so for discrete photography they pretty much only allow you one shot before you are noticed and have to move on. In situations like that, cameras with mechanical wind on are much quieter. Some excellent tiny compact ones are the Ricoh FF1, Chinon Bellami, Rollei 35 etc. Zone focus and pretty much silent to use.
If noise isn't an issue - and most times it isn't - regular P&S cameras are great.
If a P&S makes a Ker-Klunk sound, you know it's just died. TH-WACK? your girlfriend just hit you on the head with it.
Will the 'Point and Shoot' camera bubble ever pop?
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