Why Hasselblad so hard to focus?

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campy51

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Is it me or are these lenses very stiff. I know I probably shouldn't be trying to focus on grand kids since they are moving too much and by the time I focus they move. I can't even move the ring from close to far without removing my hand to get another grip instead of one continuous motion. My fingers hit the shutter release on one end and the lens release on the other. I thought about the quick focus handle but the one for the CF seem hard to find and are expensive and also from reading it's a split on whether it's worth having. Is it the grease they use or the helical design?
 

AgX

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In general some helicoids get dry over time (we are talking of decades), some get stiffer, some even freeze. Depends on the lubricant used and the storing conditions.
 

etn

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Hassy lenses have a long way to go (around 270° on the barrel) between infinity and closest focus - doing this without changing grip is difficult indeed. On the flip side of the coin it allows for very precise focusing (provided you have time to do it!)
I think it's a matter of design philosophy on Hasselblad side... It's the opposite of e.g. a Leica lens where going from close focus to infinity is done in perhaps 90°. But (unless you have a Noctilux) small format lenses have more depth of field, which accommodates some level of focus inaccuracy.

On top of this, some lenses are very stiff as you mention - the CF 100 is a well documented example. From what I can tell, CFi / CFE lenses are usually easier to turn.

Which lens(es) are you using? Maybe a tech can do something to make your lens easier to turn??
 

Sirius Glass

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All my Hasselblad lenses are a little stiff, but then then never slip out of focus. At my age it is part of my fitness program.

:D
 

flavio81

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All my Hasselblad lenses are a little stiff, but then then never slip out of focus. At my age it is part of my fitness program.

:D

You took WAY TOO LONG to answer here. I was waiting for your reply!
 

Alan9940

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All of my CF lenses are somewhat stiff to turn the focus ring; have been that way since I bought new a few decades ago. Personally, I like the harder throw and the distance the ring needs to move from one end to the other. Yes, I have to move my trip to go from infinity to closet focus, but it makes precise focus very easy.
 
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campy51

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I can see having a firm precise focus if you are using a tripod but if hand held you are more likely to lose focus simply by moving your body than a less stiff focus ring. Maybe it's just where the focus ring is located on the 80 and 50mm that's more of a problem being so close to the body and the shutter and lens release buttons.getting hit by my fingers. The 150mm ring is a not nearly as close. Maybe my focus technique needs improvement.
 

Helinophoto

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Mine are pretty stiff too and the long throw kind of put me off using my 'blad' a lot.
I also had a rather crappy focusing-screen on mine, which made the whole thing even more problematic.

With the new screen, I can actually see things pop into focus.

But, when I do use mine hand-held, I normally set the focus and move myself closer and father away instead, it is actually quicker and more precise.

Would never use it for things that are in motion.
 

monst

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Well i won't even think of a Blad now as they are such a difficult camera to use. Am amazed they ever took off and got used professionally... :smile:
 

guangong

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I wouldn't even try using a Hasselblad with my one grandson, and you're using plural. Kids just move around too much. A Rollie TLR might cut it, but the best solution would be 35mm, rangefinder preferred so you don't get disturbed by slight out of focus viewfinder. Photographing kids is closer to front line war than to landscape photography.
As for stiffness, if it doesn't grind it's probably ok.
 
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Aren't there levers that go on the focus ring to fix exactly this problem? Assuming that the lens is just like that and not in urgent need of a cleaning and re-lubing of course.
 

bdial

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Well i won't even think of a Blad now as they are such a difficult camera to use. Am amazed they ever took off and got used professionally... :smile:

The majority of them floating around on the used market nowadays are pretty old now, and so, suffer from age related problems that were't a factor when those pros were using them daily. Plus the pros could afford to have them serviced every year.
My CF lens which is relatively fresh is easy enough to focus, one of my C lenses which got serviced soon after I bought it is fine too, the other C is a bit stiff, but not overly so.

The quick focus levers do help some, by giving you additional leverage. That's not the actual intent but it works. Getting the lens serviced will help more, but that is far more expensive than the lever.
 

Helinophoto

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Aren't there levers that go on the focus ring to fix exactly this problem? Assuming that the lens is just like that and not in urgent need of a cleaning and re-lubing of course.

There is a handle that can be put onto the lens, to help focusing it (which is an indication that these lenses are just hard to turn, acknowledged by Hasselblad themselves).
cameratique 21.1.2019 pic 1666.jpg
 

pentaxuser

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Based on as near a 100% agreement on this as we ever get on anything on Photrio, it may be a useful New Year's resolution or October resolution to state this on any future pros and cons debate type thread that we get on "what MF camera do I buy" Stiff long travel focus is certainly a new one on me for Hasselblad in that I cannot recall what seems like at least a partially minus point being mentioned before

pentaxuser
 

Alan9940

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I can see having a firm precise focus if you are using a tripod but if hand held you are more likely to lose focus simply by moving your body than a less stiff focus ring. Maybe it's just where the focus ring is located on the 80 and 50mm that's more of a problem being so close to the body and the shutter and lens release buttons.getting hit by my fingers. The 150mm ring is a not nearly as close. Maybe my focus technique needs improvement.

I guess I never really noticed the "focus issues" with Hasselblad as I always use mine on a tripod. But, I will agree that the focus ring on the 50CF is mighty narrow and can be difficult to grab.
 

Sirius Glass

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I wouldn't even try using a Hasselblad with my one grandson, and you're using plural. Kids just move around too much. A Rollie TLR might cut it, but the best solution would be 35mm, rangefinder preferred so you don't get disturbed by slight out of focus viewfinder. Photographing kids is closer to front line war than to landscape photography.
As for stiffness, if it doesn't grind it's probably ok.


Not a problem. Prefocus and let the depth of field handle it. That is why Hasseblads are so loved.
 

mitrajoon

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I'm surprised by these responses. I've never had a problem focusing due to lenses. I have a 40 CFE, 80 CFE, 120 CFi, 180 CFE and 250 CFi. I've seen discussions around various screens that make it more or less easier to focus, but never lenses. It is a heavy system though and a moving target, which it seems is the OP's real concern, is not what it is designed to capture.
 
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campy51

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I'm surprised by these responses. I've never had a problem focusing due to lenses. I have a 40 CFE, 80 CFE, 120 CFi, 180 CFE and 250 CFi. I've seen discussions around various screens that make it more or less easier to focus, but never lenses. It is a heavy system though and a moving target, which it seems is the OP's real concern, is not what it is designed to capture.
I should have been clearer about taking pictures of them while moving around. It is trying while they are sitting on the floor but the head and body are in constant motion and by the time I focus they have moved. Maybe I will try to pre-focus as suggested earlier.
 

MattKing

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There is a handle that can be put onto the lens, to help focusing it (which is an indication that these lenses are just hard to turn, acknowledged by Hasselblad themselves).
View attachment 258253
I use a similar accessory with some of the lenses for my Mamiya 645 Pro.
It allows you to focus with a finger - it is very helpful.
 

pentaxuser

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campy51, it might be that an F5/6 is the solution :D On a slightly more serious note I tried to do the same as you with an AF P654N and relatively fast shutter speed with TMax 400 at 800 and while I could freeze movement of the body and legs I had trouble with heads and arms. At close range and speed of movement which is unpredictable I found bikes at well over 100 mph on the Isle of Man TT easier

pentaxuser
 
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