Why did I wait so long before trying MF

RalphLambrecht said:

...as long as the reels haven't aquired a 'varnish' - this makes them sticky and difficult to load. If the reels are good, with care, it's possible to load two 120's end-to-end.

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clipping the corners helps a lot;keeping the reels bone dry is important too. moisture in the reels will lock the film.[/QUOTE]

Plastic reels, who messes with that?

Medium and large format is wonderful to work with. I used a bit of 135 film when I was a teenager, and then crop and full frame digital as an adult, but I can't really see a good reason for using 135 film for any of my work. - I might pick up a Canon EOS system at some point for birding, but at the same time I might as well use my digital gear for that anyway.

But I do find a delightful irony in large format for me currently, which seems to keep me working with 120 film for the most part: I don't feel like I have the experience to do justice to a 4x5 negative to warrant the price, but at the same time I don't feel like I'm gaining enough experience from how I'm using my medium format to apply much to my large format work...

However, medium format is enough fun that I'm not sure I'll worry too much about the 4x5 sitting on the shelf for most of the year. [It is also a 'happy medium' medium... Large enough to do interesting work with, but just small enough that all my cameras offer some option that is reasonable to carry no matter what I'm doing: Day to day a TLR tends to ride in my messenger bag wherever I go, and a dumb folder gets stuffed in a pocket for days where the larger cameras get deemed 'too much to bother with'. My Pressman doesn't seem quite as portable...]

For double loading 120 on 220 reels [At least with the plastic Paterson style reels], I like to use the bit of tape that held the film to the backing paper from both rolls to reinforce the connection.
I had seen a suggestion to make a small split in the middle of both ends so that they form taps you can slot the film together in, but that just sounded like trouble. And I figure that the less fiddling with scissors I do in the dark, the better.
Taping a single side once resulted in the tape letting go on me mid-spooling, and overlapped a handful of frames to spoil development of the end of either roll.

For anything that I deem highly important, I no longer bother with the risk of double-loading, and will spend a bit extra on chemistry and my time.

NB23 said:

Plastic reels, who messes with that?

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I do, mostly because it is what my Paterson tank initially came with, and they work just fine as long as I use them correctly.

If it isn't actually broken, why spend money to fix it? I've since bought more plastic reels simply because they work just fine for me, and I rather not start on a mishmash collection with different quirks to learn.

NB23 said:

clipping the corners helps a lot;keeping the reels bone dry is important too. moisture in the reels will lock the film.

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Plastic reels, who messes with that?[/QUOTE]

Clipping the corners helps on plastic reels and Hewes stainless steel reels.

Medium format is why I shoot film... Enough said.

[QUOTE="Luckless, post: 2182171, member: 78701"

For double loading 120 on 220 reels [At least with the plastic Paterson style reels], I like to use the bit of tape that held the film to the backing paper from both rolls to reinforce the connection.[/QUOTE]

After having a spotty success with taping because I couldn't always get the ends to match, I followed a suggestion from somewhere on apug - Wind the first roll on and continue sliding it until it is stopped by the ending of the groove. Then wind the 2nd roll on behind it. Easy-peasy, works like a charm.

pbromaghin said:

After having a spotty success with taping because I couldn't always get the ends to match, I followed a suggestion from somewhere on apug - Wind the first roll on and continue sliding it until it is stopped by the ending of the groove. Then wind the 2nd roll on behind it. Easy-peasy, works like a charm.

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Whenever I tried that I always ended up just jamming my Paterson reels by about half way through the second film, and would worry about the second roll slipping past the end of the first and causing overlap. Now I save the tape off the two rolls, wind the film on the reel as per normal till I have an inch or two left hanging out, then align and tape the next roll of film on with about half an inch or more overlap and tape on both sides.

I guess I should also mention that I've mostly done this with Ilford film, and should likely assume that some of the others might have a film base that plays better or worse with different methods.

pbromaghin said:

After having a spotty success with taping because I couldn't always get the ends to match, I followed a suggestion from somewhere on apug - Wind the first roll on and continue sliding it until it is stopped by the ending of the groove. Then wind the 2nd roll on behind it. Easy-peasy, works like a charm.

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This works for me, although I'm mostly using the AP/Arista Premium/Samigon reels that fit in the Paterson tank.
One thing though - I find a need to use a pre-rinse plus do inversion agitation during the development stage. If I try to use rotary agitation during development, the films wander too much within the reels and can end up either overlapping or wandering out of the reel.
I can use rotary agitation for all the other steps, but I guess the film is just too slippery in the developers I use (currently replenished X-Tol, and formerly replenished HC-110 dil E).

Skeeterfx20 said:

Time is so fleeting Winger. I will have to talk you into coming up the mountain to photograph the Packsaddle Covered Bridge. It is the only PA covered bridge with a waterfall. If you ever get a chance you have to photograph Rickets Glenn. I have to get back there with my MF gear. I should join the WPS, it's just a 30 min drive to the meetings.

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Just give a holler. I'd definitely like to shoot that bridge.
You might like the WPS - it's not a competitive group; it's based more on learning new stuff. It's a fun group of people. I haven't been, but there is a Laurel Highlands Club, too - I think they meet in Somerset.

I absolutely want to go to Ricketts Glen. We went in college to look at plants (for Botany class - where's the "gag me" emoji), but I couldn't stop to take pics. I want to get back there and to the Delaware Water Gap and areas near there.

Not enough hours to do everything I want to do. Still gonna try!

pbromaghin said:

[QUOTE="Luckless, post: 2182171, member: 78701"

For double loading 120 on 220 reels [At least with the plastic Paterson style reels], I like to use the bit of tape that held the film to the backing paper from both rolls to reinforce the connection.

Click to expand...

After having a spotty success with taping because I couldn't always get the ends to match, I followed a suggestion from somewhere on apug - Wind the first roll on and continue sliding it until it is stopped by the ending of the groove. Then wind the 2nd roll on behind it. Easy-peasy, works like a charm.[/QUOTE]
...that's right you don't need to tape them at all. It's even easier with a plastic 'Jobo' reel. These lack the Patterson ballbearing - there's a cut-out in the spool edge for your finger tips.

Enjoy your RB. I used to own a RZ and loved it. I sold it when I moved up to large format. First 4x5 and now 8x10. I ended up adding a Mamiya C220f because I missed medium format.

I've shot small, medium and large format. They are all good and each has it's advantages and disadvantages. I always say to shoot what you like!

Alan Gales said:

Enjoy your RB. I used to own a RZ and loved it. I sold it when I moved up to large format. First 4x5 and now 8x10. I ended up adding a Mamiya C220f because I missed medium format.

I've shot small, medium and large format. They are all good and each has it's advantages and disadvantages. I always say to shoot what you like!

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Out of curiosity, what did you miss about medium format and why did you not miss about small format?

Indeed the RB is an amazing system! Also don't hesitate to try some of the rangefinder systems such as the mamiya 6, bronica RF, or any of the awesome Fuji variety for reasonable large negatives from 6.45 to 6x9 above all shoot lots of film and have fun! There has not been a better time to enjoy shooting with these top notch systems

narsuitus said:

Out of curiosity, what did you miss about medium format and why did you not miss about small format?

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I've got some old Novatron studio lights that I used to use with a Mamiya RZ67. They are not powerful enough for my 8x10 but work fine with medium format. I like to use them on occasion. I love the 8x10 but medium format is more portable and you can shoot it hand held.

I used to shoot everything with a 35mm Contax but always wanted a medium format camera. When digital came out and film gear prices came down I finally bought one. I also bought a digital camera and started selling used film gear on eBay. My daughter started pitching Select Softball so I started shooting her with a DSLR. Eventually, I became an assistant manager and team photographer. I wasn't using my Contax and my 5 Zeiss lenses anymore. I ended up selling them to help fund my large format gear.

My daughter is grown and no longer plays sports. I am no longer an eBay Seller. I now own an 8x10, 6x6 and a 35mm Stereo Realist. I also have a little Fujifilm X100s that I can carry with me for snaps or if I decide to get rid of something on eBay.

Skeeterfx20 said:

The Mamiya RB67 67 is big and of course heavier than any 35mm I have. ..

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when I got my first RB I put it on the scale and it brought 2,7 kg with the 127mm lense, then I compared to my Nikon F3, everything I had, DA-2 monitor finder, motor drive, portrait release and 135/2, attached and it showed the same weight.^^

RalphLambrecht said:

...an increase which cannot be repeated by going from MF to LF ....

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4x5 may not bring much increase as its also to small for serious contact printing, but going larger is a big improvment, my road ended at 12x16, which gives nice contacts but brought a lot of troubles with film flatness..

i

I'm pretty well hooked on the 6x7 format. I have been experimenting with it a lot to get my metering skills down. To my surprise it was far easier to do than I thought. Now I'm starting to tackle more complex exposures. Today I added fill light to the mix. Pretty cool subject. If it comes out I will post it in this thread. I shot Portra 160 so I have to send it out after I get a few more rolls shot.

I have stocked up on a lot of film. Lol, 10 shots don't last that long. I know for certain I'm going to buy a few more film backs, one doesn't cut it. Yes I'm going to need another lens or two.

I can't wait to start printing. My problem is I have three enlarger. Two small issues I need a enlarger lens for 6x7 and a negative holder for my Beseler 23c. Though I do have a 6x7 for the Beseler 67.

The major issue right now is figuring where to set up the new darkroom. A temp one just won't work for other reasons. And I think my wife would love me to move my negative developing out of the kitchen.

I have a server backlog of negatives to print.

I can now operate the Mamiya 67 like clockwork. I'm pretty fast on loading film but more backs would be nice. There are times I can hand hold it but I use a tripod mostly. I love the all manual operation, just gives you the feeling of control. You know you have to give some thought to the entire process. I want a spot meter, learning how to use a meter was amazing. I could use a split focus screen, will have to see if they even make them. Don't get my wrong the view finder is big and bright but still I like split focus.

I would love to project my slides. So a new slide projector is on my want list too.

I love the detail, coming from 35mm this just stands out. I will of course still shoot 35mm after all I stocked up on entirely way to much Across 100. If only I knew I would be buying a 6x7 I would have done the same with 120.

Now if I can only learn how to print color. I figure developing negatives should be a slam dunk.

Skeeterfx20 said:

I could use a split focus screen, will have to see if they even make them.

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Yes, Mamiya did make them. I have one in one of my two RB67 bodies. Works great! Wish I could find a second one for a reasonable price.

Skeeterfx20 said:

Two small issues I need a enlarger lens for 6x7 and a negative holder for my Beseler 23c.

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I'd have to look, but I think I may have a lens that would work. But not a negative holder.

Cool, I'll send you an email. I would like to try a roll through your 645n if we get together.

Another why did I wait so long... is respooling 120 to 620. Do it for one camera, in my case a Kodak Medalist, and you can do it for all 620 cameras. wrt image quality, 620 cameras are very inexpensive.

Skeeterfx20 said:

Cool, I'll send you an email. I would like to try a roll through your 645n if we get together.

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That might be possible. (I'm usually using it if I'm not shooting 4x5). And I found a lens.