Which measuring device should I choose and is banning the test strip a illusion?

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wietsedejong

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Dear APUG users,

I use my darkroom now for sometime and I'm the proud owner of a Durst DA900 enlarger and use Ilford filters.(I print 6x8 and 35mm)
Mainly I print on Ilford delux VC paper or on Ilford FB warmtone VC paper and plan on trying the new Ilford art 300.

I use a old Philips pdt 022 as a measuring indication before i make test strips but is getting old and unreliable.

Now my question:

Which timer/meter would you advise my to buy or get and what are your experiences with the different types?
and second is banning the test strip an illusion?

Thank for your advice and support.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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...is banning the test strip an illusion?

Darkroom Automation never made that particular claim, but: Test strips will always be with us and f-stop timers are wizards at making test strips. The results of the test strips - in stops relative to a base exposure - fit right into the timer's dodging and burning schemes.

Adding a meter or metering facility lets you reduce the number of test strips so that the test strips you do make are very targeted to fine-tuning the image.

Metering's advantages are:

  • Quickly arrive at a base exposure and paper contrast;
  • Base that contrast on measurement of the focus point of the image - facial highlights and shadows for a portrait, midtones and deep shadows for a low-key subject, midtones and highlights for a high-key subject, etc., etc.;
  • Accurately determine the dodges and burns needed to get from a first work print to a well-tuned final print, and do so in minimum time.
A meter may not be all that useful if your images are made under well controlled conditions, you use well known materials and processes, and you can accurately guess the exposure and contrast by looking at the image on the easel. But then you probably don't need to make many test strips or test prints anyway.

A meter makes a great deal of sense if you take pictures of a wide range of subjects, under very variable (and often very rushed (many of your best images are over/under/exposed/developed)) conditions, use a wide variety of materials and are sick of making test strips. With the rising price of paper a meter can pay for itself quickly by reducing waste.

A meter is not a magic bullet, no more than an exposure meter is guarantee of perfect negatives. You will still find yourself making test strips and prints, just as you find yourself bracketing a metered shot. But you will need fewer test prints to get to your final print, just as an exposure meter greatly reduces the need to bracket to get a good negative. These days nobody few would think to go in the field without an exposure meter, in the future the idea of printing without a darkroom meter will seem just as quaint.

Modern offerings have nothing in common with the past. Darkroom meters have a bad reputation to live down, and rightly so. Everyone has an old Analite or Spot-O-Matic they have played around with and ultimately relegated to the odd-bits-box. The technology to make a meter with the required accuracy - 1/100th of a stop - at a reasonable consumer price has only come available in the past 10 years or so. 1/100th of a stop may seem like overkill, but if you are setting print exposure to 1/10th of a stop you do need to measure to a much higher resolution. 1/10th of a stop may also seem like overkill but it is a 2 second adjustment to a 25 second exposure - something we have all made, especially with higher contrast grades of printing paper.

A darkroom meter has a learning curve. Like all bits of electronics it slavishly does what it is told. And there's the rub: you have to know what tone to assign to each metered area. If you are an experienced printer you likely already have this bit of pre-visualization skill. The zone-strip, described in the Darkroom Automation application note, can be a great help with pre-visualization in the darkroom.

I wish I could advise you to get a Darkroom Automation system, but I am afraid, if you want a meter/timer system, I will have to refer you to the competition - RH Designs (change all decimal stops in the missive above to twelfths). DA does not make a timer for the European market. The DA stand-alone meter is available world-wide.
 
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ath

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I consider the Zonemaster II as one of my best investions. When it is calibrated properly there is no need for teststrips for general purpose or quick prints (like family snapshots). But when you want to produce a fine tuned print you will need some adjustments going from there. It will not banish all but many if not most test strips (depending on your demands).

Two things are important: calibrate carefully and learn to meter.

Another (more fully automatic but also fine tunable) option is the Heiland splitgrade, but I have no experience with this.
 
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MattKing

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I wish I could advise you to get a Darkroom Automation system, but I am afraid, if you want a meter/timer system, I will have to refer you to the competition - RH Designs (change all decimal stops in the missive above to twelfths). DA does not make a timer for the European market. The DA stand-alone meter is available world-wide.

A perfect example of what I like about APUG.
 

canonman

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Great Nicholas! Never heard of the darkroom automation before - great devices! I have the RH-Analyser Pro - just love it!
 

mhulsman

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Wietse,

If you like your pdt022, I have got one for you. alsmost new in a box.
For free if you want to pick up.
Live near to Utrecht.

Mike
 
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wietsedejong

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The enlarging meter form darkroom automations seems like a nifty little thing.
(Especially when your buying and converting euro's, RH products have to be paid in Pounds)
(That roughly 75 euro against 219 euro for the RH zone II)
 

hadeer

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I am using the RHDesign combination of the Stopclock and Zonemaster II with much satisfaction. For run of the mill prints there is no need to make teststrips, for serious printing however it still is necessary. The catch is the time you have to invest in learning how to take readings and the calibration for each paper. Once done it is a big saver of time and paper though. I wouldn't like to miss it.
 
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wietsedejong

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The products of RH design seem somewhat completer and are compatible with each other.
I like also the Led indicators (light to dark) on the "dashboard" and how your able to adjust it.
I will read the different manuals (darkroom automation/RH design) to night or tomorrow and see how i think then.

What do the APUG users know about calibrating for papers with these machines or do the have standard settings for different types of paper and is it easy to calibrate? (like Ilfort Muligrade delux/ Multigrade fiberbased/ 300art)
This is the biggest problem I have with the Phillips PDT 022 now (Its is original developed for graded paper)
 

RalphLambrecht

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Dear APUG users, is banning the test strip an illusion?

Thank for your advice and support.

why do you want to work without test strips? they Provide so much valuable information!, bu ttake little timeAnd effort. I would not want to be without. I suggest to make yourself a test strip printer and give it another try!
 

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wietsedejong

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why do you want to work without test strips?

Dear Mr Lambrecht,

Thanks for your reply, although my quote was meant more like a teaser.
What I would like is to get a better test strip the first time, for example a test strip in 1/3 of a stop and get closer to the right paper grade and stop a bid of paper waste.
This said I would like to know if APUG users think its worth their money and which machine they are using. Also your opinion would be very valuable.

2 weeks ago I bought your book (Way Beyond Monochrome) and it has helped me a lot already. There where already a few eye openers and I am still reading it.
Making the test strip printer has gotten a place on my to-do list.

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. You have been a great help.
 

Bill Burk

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2 weeks ago I bought your book (Way Beyond Monochrome) and it has helped me a lot already..

You are a step ahead of me....

I use a very old meter that can barely see the shadow light - I use it only to open my aperture to a place where I know 32 seconds gives me black on Grade 2.

So Nicholas may get my business for a meter that can do the same but for the highlights instead of the shadows.

Limited value? Something that does exactly what you want for $100

How much better can life be?
 

RalphLambrecht

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Dear Mr Lambrecht,

Thanks for your reply, although my quote was meant more like a teaser.
What I would like is to get a better test strip the first time, for example a test strip in 1/3 of a stop and get closer to the right paper grade and stop a bid of paper waste.
This said I would like to know if APUG users think its worth their money and which machine they are using. Also your opinion would be very valuable.

2 weeks ago I bought your book (Way Beyond Monochrome) and it has helped me a lot already. There where already a few eye openers and I am still reading it.
Making the test strip printer has gotten a place on my to-do list.

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. You have been a great help.
i use a zonemastr ii from rhdesignsto get me within 1/stop and continue with test strips from there on !
 

Toffle

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I have a copy of Ralph's f-stop printing chart pinned to my wall beside my enlarger, and find it a very effective tool in fine-tuning my prints. I did try an f-stop dial on my Gralab, but I found it too difficult to see it in the dark. Another tool I have just recently started using is an old Kodak Projection Print Scale (marked in half-stop increments) I don't know why I overlooked this before. It only covers about a 4" circle, but if I center it over a key area of the print, it is great. Another fairly new addition is a 1972 edition of the Kodak Master Darkroom Guide, somewhat outdated, but the enlarging computer itself is quite handy for adjusting variables on the fly.
 

Steve Smith

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In this week's Amateur Photographer magazine (UK) there is an interview with black and white printer Robin Bell.

He says he can look at the projected negative on the baseboard and see what exposure to give "My aim is to get it right first print - I don't do test strips. If for some reason this doesn't happen, I look carefully at the first print and adjust the amount of manipulation from there. It is very unusual that I will have to make a third print."

I don't think there are many here with the same amount of experience so perhaps test strips are a good idea for most of us!

http://www.robinbell.com/


Steve.
 

pentaxuser

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Ralph's test strip printer is relatively easy to make or a machine shop could make one for you in a very short time. It is an invaluable piece of kit

pentaxuser
 

Mark_S

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I use the Ilford MG600 head - and haven't needed to do a test strip in years. Just wave the magic probe around your easel and you get a recommended contrast and exposure, and you can tweak from there....

I pray that my system holds up, since I think that parts/repair require divine intervention.
 
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You can make a test strip mask yourself. I made one out of some cardbord, and then blackened it with a marker. I wrote the times in f-stop increments on it. So if you feel artsy-craftsy, then, hey, no problem! :smile:
 

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mdarnton

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In this week's Amateur Photographer magazine (UK) there is an interview with black and white printer Robin Bell.
He says he can look at the projected negative on the baseboard and see what exposure to give.

I had just about decided not to say anything, but seeing this, here it goes: Over the years that I was making a living in photography, one of the things I did several times was work as a B&W printer in labs, and here's what I did.

I never used any time other than 5 seconds. If the enlarger wasn't bright enough to do that, I put in a bigger bulb, so that the average time was around 5 seconds, two stops down. After a while in any darkroom, I could hone in so that I could stop the lens down until the image on the baseboard reached a brightness I recognized, for that five second exposure. Any burning in was done in 5 second increments. Dodging--well, that was done quickly, wasn't it? The trick was to look at the highlights (the dark areas) and notice how they were disappearing as I stopped down. It's important to keep conditions the same--don't be moving around safelights, for instance, and I only used one type of paper, so I didn't have to adjust for that. Print size doesn't matter, once you calibrate your brain.

It was a surprisingly-easy skill for me to acquire once I decided to try. It works as well with filters on VC paper as not. You don't ever learn it if you don't try (similarly to how letting the camera do exposure automatically doesn't teach anything.) I rarely missed an exposure, and never by much, so the second was always spot on. I didn't use test strips, just test prints, since there were so few of them. You learn a lot more from a test print, anyway.

I found that moving the timer around defeated any attempt to standardize on a look on the baseboar, so 5 seconds it was. It could just as easily be 10 or 15, or anything you're comfortable with, but I was usually working in a high-pressure atmosphere, and time was money.

You wouldn't believe how many prints I could make in a day.
 

Toffle

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That is very interesting, Michael, and it sounds like it worked well for you. I am a little confused, though it may simply be a misunderstanding on my part. Way back in my printing education, I was told that there was an inherent instability in paper at any time under 8 seconds. (Now that I think of it, my paper negatives have never had a problem, and those come in at much less than 8 seconds)
I wonder, is there an understood reciprocity failure [ed. thanks, Nicholas] for paper at short exposures? Apart from the splitting of seconds to dodge a print at 5 seconds, it seem so rushed to me, but perhaps that is because I have often aimed for long exposure times on complex prints. Again, I am not disputing your methods; if it worked for you that is all that matters. I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the speed at which you have to work for a 5-second print.

Cheers,
Tom
 
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Nicholas Lindan

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I wonder, is there an understood reciprocity [failure, ed.] for paper at short exposures?

There aren't any appreciable reciprocity effects over a 1 to 256 second range of exposure times:

http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/appnotereciprocityandintermittency.pdf

Claims of reciprocity anomalies with paper seem to have been the result of timing and/or light attenuation errors. Any lamp warm-up/cool-down has to be compensated for and the light intensity has to be stabilized and controlled to better than 1/20 of a stop.
 
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