Which filter would you use with a 135mm Optar Crown Graphic in daylight with fp4/hp5

Hi,

Looking for Optar user's opinions on the use of filters....I've seen some images that have more contrast than others so wondering which combination would work well - I can use either FP4+ or HP5 plus...

Anyone have a preference for what to use (yellow green filter, polariser, some series 6 kodak filters (orange, yellow, red, green couple others) to enhance images taken on a sunny day in an apple orchard with an optar 135mm f4.7 lens on a Crown Graphic - it's that time of year again. There should be a variety of available subject material, people, farm buildings, apple orchards, grass parking lots with a lot of shiny cars (it's supposed to be sunny and cloudless) ...I may try hand holding the camera but will also have a tripod to take shots.

The polariser and yellow green filter are modern (linear polariser).

I'm wondering if there is a filter that in general would increase the optar's contrast in this context. I will be using xtol to develop the negatives, and pf 130 to make contact prints. Would it be better not to use anything?

Thanks

contrast is more than just a factor of film and filter -- the scene itself may have less contrast in it.

Having said that, a yellow filter is a good general-purpose filter that can be left on for most situations. It makes clouds stand out by darkening blues a bit. See if you like what it does for other stuff. Remember to double your exposure (cut the ISO in half) for the reduced light.

Almost more important as a filter is a lens hood. But yellow and orange has been best for me. Real orange, not a orange-ish CC filter.

For black & white a UV or yellow filter generally. Yellow green, orange or red when I want a particular result.

For B&W films contrast is more a function of the choice of film and development. Slow films usually exhibit more contrast than fast ones. Increasing development time will increase negative contrast. Using a filter will not increase contrast for all colors. A filter such as a yellow one will lighten those colors containing yellow such as greens, yellows and oranges while darkening blues, So any increase in contrast is fairly selective. For a yellow filter and a scene that contains no blues contrast will actually be decreased as the remaining colors will all be lightened. So it all depends on your subjects.

It will prove useful to become familiar with the color wheel. For a yellow filter, yellow is opposite blue and will therefore darken it. Those colors near yellow will be lightened and those near blue will be darkened. Look at Fig. 23 (The Color Circle) and this will become clear.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_wheel

I only use a filter if it will greatly improve the image, especially since it introduces another glass surface that could be a problem such as dirt, scratches, glare.

fotch said:

I only use a filter if it will greatly improve the image, especially since it introduces another glass surface that could be a problem such as dirt, scratches, glare.

Click to expand...

You need to replace your worn and scratched filters.

firefli said:

Hi,

Looking for Optar user's opinions on the use of filters....I've seen some images that have more contrast than others so wondering which combination would work well - I can use either FP4+ or HP5 plus...

Anyone have a preference for what to use (yellow green filter, polariser, some series 6 kodak filters (orange, yellow, red, green couple others) to enhance images taken on a sunny day in an apple orchard with an optar 135mm f4.7 lens on a Crown Graphic - it's that time of year again. There should be a variety of available subject material, people, farm buildings, apple orchards, grass parking lots with a lot of shiny cars (it's supposed to be sunny and cloudless) ...I may try hand holding the camera but will also have a tripod to take shots.

The polariser and yellow green filter are modern (linear polariser).

I'm wondering if there is a filter that in general would increase the optar's contrast in this context. I will be using xtol to develop the negatives, and pf 130 to make contact prints. Would it be better not to use anything?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Just to be flippant: I'd use the filter I thought would best render the scene the way I want it to be rendered.

Longer explanation: Filters need to be used for a particular purpose and when and how to use them, and which filter to choose, has little to do with the lens you own or any particular generic type of photography you do than a careful evaluation of the colors in the scene and some practical and artistic decisions on how you wish them rendered in tones of grey in relation to each other. Want blue skies darker? You need a filter that removes blue. How strong? That depends on the sky and what you want to do with it. Just general "normal" separation of sky and clouds with a fairly deep blue sky? Then yellow would be a starting point. More dramatic, or the sky is milkier? Then stronger - orange, maybe red - maybe red plus a polarizer... but that will darken greens and probably my shadows too... do I want that? - it all depends on the specific situation and the desired result. Compromise is often called for.

Summary: you need to learn about filters and how to use them as well as do your own testing to gain experience. Sorry, there's no easier way. There are lots of good resources out there (and here) about filters. And, you can always bracket

P.S: I wouldn't worry about your lens being more or less contrasty than more modern ones. Optars are pretty good and any bit of flare affects the shadows a lot more than the mid and high tones. Filters work across the spectrum of tones, and are not meant as "correction" for a less-contrasty lens. That you take care of with exposure and development.

Best,

Doremus

Older lens like the Optar are either uncoated or single coated and are lower in contrast than new multi coated lens. Contrast in compensated in exposure or development, or both. I have the 135mm Optar, replaced with a newer Zeiss 123mm that seems to match the cam in my Crown. When I did shoot with the Optar: as I shoot in the desert although bright, contrast can be flat, so much reflected light, that I usually shot and developed + 1 using the Zone system method. My other LF lens are older single coated, Kodak 152mm and old B&L 210 tessor, which I still shoot +1. I shoot my newer Zeiss 135 normal. I use filters to darken the sky and bring out clouds, light foliage or skin tones and add the correct filter factor to my basic exposure.