As long as you have powerful flashes and can craft the light to combat the film's high contrast, I'd go with Pan F. I love the way it works for shooting people in the studio. I think it is a gorgeous, smooth, sharp, film with really "robust" tonality – my favorite if that is what I am going for. But as I mentioned, it can be tough to use without flash (due to slow shutter speeds), and without knowing how to control your light so that it does not get excessively contrasty.
The first thing I'd do is shoot a bracketed gray card and make a normal proofsheet, so you can see just how rapidly this film drops the shadows. Then light to fill them as necessary. In other words, you will need to fill the shadows more than with most other films in order to get texture there.
When I have less control of light (i.e. outside of the studio), I like to use a faster and less contrasty film with more latitude, such as FP4/Plus-X, or T-Max 100/400. When using hot lamps to shoot people, I "cheat" and use T-Max 400 most of the time. This is because the hot lamps I use are either 500 W or 1 KW, which are not that bright in the grand scheme of things. I'd love to get a set of 2K Mole-Richardsons some day instead of the 1K ones.