Yes Jbrunner, I should of worded the title and the post better than trying to pin it down. That was not very bright of me cause I am asking to broad of a question with which is right with all the different variables, especially between scanning and making an actual print. I also liked #5 for making a print, cause that comes closest to what I had invisioned when I set the little budda guy up. Black bg and good detail and highlights on him and the reflection of him.
Thank you for your reply. Im stillgetting the hang of this posting in the forums thing. I am sure my post will become a little less moronic as I get the hang of it.
Dan
Well that really sucks, atleast I am consistant with mispelling words. I know what aperture is, just had a large brain fart and did not realize my fingers had misspelled it 6 times in a row.This is PAINFUL to read! It is APERTURE. It's a noun, in English, that means "opening", both in photography and otherwise.
This is PAINFUL to read! It is APERTURE. It's a noun, in English, that means "opening", both in photography and otherwise.
Just FYI: What you used is electronic flash, not "strobes". Strobes is what they are called when you fire them off like a fool....but even then they are really only electronic flash.
Don't worry, I am not permanently damaged or anything. I was being facetious.
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Yes, thats what I was thinking also. I have 4 JTL versalight 300 lights, which I have owned and used for several years. He had me confused on the verbage there for a minute.most strobes are small xenon filled cold cathode or neon tube.
when charged with electricity, they emit a pulse of light.
It's a little hard to be sure I am interpreting your shots correctly, so to get an initial test you can interpret more easily, I would urge you to use a subject that has a complete range of reflectances from white or near white down to deep shadow. I can't tell from something scanned then put up on a web site what you have started with and how it should render. But if you shoot a "still life" with a full range of reflectances, somewhat evenly lit, maybe a teeny bit flatly, it will be rather blatant if it's terribly exposed. If underexposed, you'll be weak in the shadow detail. If overexposed you will find shadows very bright, and highlights blown away.
It is maybe most telling, if you have access to a good E-6 lab, to shoot bracketed slides and see where the good slide comes from. Since the E-6 process is standardized, it takes your newly launched BW processing techniques out of the "variables" column. I'd do the E-6 thing myself to really run a meter through it's paces. The ideal is to have the meter itself be the only variable.
First off, consistency is king, where processing is concerned. Consistency is more important that raw accuracy. If you reliably agitate the same every time, and use the same dilution every time ... you can then gradually modify your routine to adjust your results. You are new at processing, so it would be unfair to you to expect perfection right off the bat. But, establish a routine and take notes until you have made processing second utterly nature. By taking notes you make yourself much more aware of what you are doing, and you are also less likely to miss a step or get steps out of order. It immediately makes you more "professional" in attitude, and you will be able to diagnose errors faster, when you have a record of what you did.
A question ...
Was the metering here done in "Incident" or "Reflective" mode?
Another FYI: It gave you a reading of f/16.5, *not* f/16.5 @ '250. Shutter speed is irrelevant when all of the light comes from electronic flash (as long as it is below max synch speed). Don't fall into the trap of thinking that your shutter speed will control your exposure!
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