You're going to get a lot of people recommending whatever they use. Ultimately, then, you'll have to research the field yourself and pay attention to the details of what people say they like and don't like in their own enlargers.
In that spirit, I've got a Philips PCS130 with a PCS150 control unit. The PCS130 is a condenser enlarger that can handle up to 6x7 negatives, given the right condensers, lens, and negative carrier insert. (Up to 6x6 condensers are fairly common; the 6x7 set is rarer.) The enlarger supports head tilting (for Scheimpflug effect parallax control or for projecting the image on a wall for huge enlargements) and it has a fine-focus control (this is nominally an extra, but the units I've seen for sale on eBay all seem to have it). Most PCS130 units sell with the PCS150, which adds a 3-color (red/green/blue) light source with electronic timer. The PCS150 makes the unit a color enlarger, but instead of using cyan, magenta, and yellow filters you adjust the brightness of the red, green, and blue lights. The two approaches are equivalent, at least broadly speaking. (Philips claimed all sorts of advantages for their additive system in their brochures, of course.)
The negative carrier I've got for mine is glassless, but I've never had problems with negative "pop." Philips claims the PCS150 light source produces low heat, but I haven't attempted to measure heat at the negative and so can't verify this claim. Glass carriers were apparently available originally, and I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to get one custom made at a glass shop. (You might need to track down some anti-Newton glass, though.) To reduce heat and extend bulb life, I turn off my red bulb when doing B&W enlarging.
Light distribution is quite even. I did some tests with an exposure meter and found that, depending on the lens and aperture I used, I got anywhere from no dropoff to about 2/3-stop dropofff, IIRC. (I don't have my notes in front of me.)
For B&W enlargements, I normally stop down to f/8 and get exposure times of 5-30 seconds for 8x10, depending on the paper and negative. This is using the "constant exposure" filtration settings, as provided in various Philips manuals.
There's also a PCS2000 unit, which is similar to the PCS130/PCS150 combination, but the PCS2000 uses a diffusion head that lacks the Scheimpflug control feature and goes up to just 6x6 format. In England, both were also sold under the Paterson label, but Paterson relabelled the PCS130 as the PCS2500.
The main drawback to these enlargers is that they were made in the 1980s and have been long discontinued. Thus, finding appropriate parts may be hard if you need to repair or expand one. They use Philips 13165 bulbs, which are still made (they're used by some dental equipment), but a bit pricey -- in the US, they cost $15-$35 from most sources, and you need three bulbs to have a working system. (For B&W work, you could do without the red bulb, though.)
FWIW, there's a Dead Link Removed dedicated to these enlargers. It's pretty low-traffic, but occasionally a discussion breaks out. There's also a files area with manuals and brochures, a links area with links to bulb sources, etc.
The PCS130 is fairly large and heavy, but not so much so that a single person can't move it about. In a temporary darkroom situation, I'd recommend putting it on a movable cart, like a kitchen microwave cart or a typewriter/computer desk with wheels. You could then move it in and out of your temporary darkroom with relative ease.