Which dilution should i use for SPUR Modular UR?

Hello,

I have found a new developer for Adox CMS 20 which i am keen to try. It is called SPUR Modular UR. The link to the developer is

http://www.maco-photo.de/files/images/Data_Sheet_SPUR_Modular_UR-new.pdf

This is an excerpt from that link that interests me:
3.) SPUR Orthopan UR / ADOX CMS 20, 35 mm miniature film
Film speed: ISO 10/11° to ISO 12/12°
Preparation of 250 ml WS:
Condensor: 20 ml Part A2 + 10 ml Part B, use water to bring to 250 ml.
Diffiser: 25 ml Part A2 + 10 ml Part B, use water to bring to 250 ml.
NO PRE-WASHING! Development time at 20° C: 6.5 minutes
Inversion tact: steadily during the first 30 seconds, then once every 30 seconds
Fixing time: 60 seconds Final wash: 5 minutes

My questions are:
1. What is condensor and diffiser? Which dilution rate am i suppose to use?
2. Final wash for five minutes - do i need to use a hypo wash?

Thanks

I'm guessing that "condenser" and "diffuser" refer to the enlarger you are using.

A condenser enlarger is the type of enlarger with a series of glass lenses that spread the light out whereas a diffuser enlarger is the type with a frosted, white piece of glass that diffuses the light.

In a nutshell, a condenser enlarger creates a higher contrast image than a diffuser enlarger. (Simplified explanation.) The instructions are telling you to change concentration of your developing solution in order to compensate for the difference between types of enlargers.

I don't know what to tell you about fixing time and washing time.

I always do a clip test to determine fixing time.
(Put a drop of fixer on a piece of undeveloped film and wait for 30 seconds then drop the film into your fixer. Dunk the whole clip of film into the fixer and count the time it takes until you can't tell where the drop was. Whatever that time comes out to be, double it. That's your fixing time.)

I always use hypo clearing agent for the same amount of time the film was in the fixer.

I always rinse the film five times, "fill-swish-dump," followed by 15 minutes slow, running water wash.

I have five rolls of that Adox film in my stash but I haven't worked up the courage to use it. I read that the stuff is a different animal that can be finicky if you don't do everything right. Since I haven't used that film yet, I can't tell you much more except to say that you should do what the instructions say and follow them exactly.

Thanks Randy.

I dont print. I only scan negatives into the computer. In that sense which dilution should i choose if i like middle contrast?

You should give this film a try. So far i like it very much.

I believe that it is best to use a hair bit lower contrast for scanning than if you would print on photographic paper.
Try the "condenser" dilution. IIRC, that will lower your contrast a hair bit to compensate for the higher contrast of the lens system in a condenser enlarger. If you don't get the contrast you want you can try the "diffusion" dilution but, to be honest, if you're manipulating your photos electronically, I don't think it will make much difference. You can always adjust contrast in the final edit.

Personally, I use scanning for mostly for previewing and selection of images but I don't produce much final product electronically. The place to go for that kind of advice is on the digital forum: http://www.dpug.org/forums/home.php

I have been planning to use that Adox film and I think I will get it out but I just need to find the inspiration. My "photographic vision" or creativity has been on the low side, lately. I still shoot about a roll of film per week just to keep my chops up but I don't want to burn up a lot of film unless I have a good feeling about what I'm doing.

They say that CMS-20 can be finicky. I don't want to waste the film and the time until I feel like I'm playing my best game.

Thanks Randy. Appreciate your help very much. Will take your advise and choice. I do hope to try printing one day. At this point in time I am still literally learning how to use film. The learning curve is definitely higher than digital.

It's hard to predict the kind of equipment you might get in the future but you should develop your film now with an eye toward the way you will use it in the future. If you have your eye on a certain enlarger or even just have a hankering for a certain one, develop for that enlarger. You can almost always compensate for negative contrast in Photoshop but you have less latitude when using an enlarger.

You might end up with a whole notebook full of negatives that were developed for one workflow but, two years later, you end up needing to use them for another way of doing things. Try to keep your eye on the future as much as possible. As I said, it's not possible to know exactly what you'll be doing a year from now but you can make educated guesses based on your own experience.

I don't think the learning curve to traditional photography is much different than digital. I do think it is a lot easier to dabble with digital photography without needing very much detailed knowledge. I know a few digicam shooters who don't know the first thing about shutter speed and aperture yet they think they are the greatest photographer since Ansel Adams. The principles of digital photography and traditional photography are very similar but for the method of output (i.e. Electronic display versus photographic paper) and, in many cases like aperture/shutter speed reciprocity, the principles are almost EXACTLY the same.

The main difference in the apparent learning curve is that digital photography lets you be a "dabbler" where traditional photography forces you to learn the ropes right at the beginning. The apparent ease of digital photography is deceptive.

If you really want to learn about photography... and it doesn't matter whether you end up as a digicam shooter for the rest of your life... if you really want to learn how to be a good photographer, you really should study traditional photography and learn how to produce a good photo from start to finish. When you can shoot film in your camera and produce a framed and matted "real" photograph that you would be proud to hang on the wall of your living room THEN you can call yourself a photographer.

After that, if you ever go back to shooting digital, you'll see your work in a whole, different way and you will feel like your ability to shoot good photos has skyrocketed.

If you shop wisely, you should be able to find a good darkroom setup for a good price. Hit the garage sales and the flea markets. Haunt eBay, Craigslist and don't forget to keep your eye on the classified section of this site.

I bought my entire darkroom from my uncle for $250. A Bessler enlarger, lenses, apreture plates, timer, trays, measures, thermomenters... the works.

Just keep your eyes open and, if you want darkroom gear, you should be able to find it.

Good advice Randy. I definitely have an eye to develop my own prints in the traditional way. I will try to develop my negatives towards that aim.