This. There are also the more recent 30V and 33V variants if you are interested in a modestly priced body.EOS 30 or 33.
For AA bateries there is batery pack for 4 of them.
If money is not problem than EOS 3 or more expensive 1N.
No EOS body takes normal batteries.
EOS 650 - The first EOS tank
I tell you what though -- one of these days I'm gonna get me an EOS 1V. I wish the price would drop a bit more on it, but it doesn't seem like it's going to. The 1V has it all and is built like a tank.
. . . . . Basically all I want is a good light meter, a fully manual mode with easaly accesable controls to change exposure quickly, a build in exposure time of at least 30 seconds up to 1/2000, and idk... a good view finder? And a body that takes normal batteries would be neat, I love that about the T-Series. . . . . .
Okay I just bought a 650 and 300 in 1€ Auctions on eBay. I'll keep looking for a better model, but for now let's try those two, one is bound to do the job.
I am not disappointed with 650...
No EOS body takes normal batteries.
This. There are also the more recent 30V and 33V variants if you are interested in a modestly priced body.
I have an Elan IIe that I picked up in almost mint condition for next to nothing about 10 years ago. It's a good, reliable, full-featured camera that can do most of what anyone needs. It even has the Eye-Controlled focus feature, ...
Aha, I forgot that part. But am still correct on the DOF, point eye ball to the corner to activate.The eye control focus allows you to choose the point part of the scene that the auto-focus focuses on by merely looking at it - or at least the viewfinder focus point closest to it. The movement of your eye does the work - no buttons to push, dials to turn or screens to touch.
Once Canon stopped including it in cameras, due to the fact that some customers could not get it to reliably work for them, the feature was unavailable anywhere other than in fighter jets.
I believe that it may have been recently incorporated again in some of the newest digital cameras (please correct me if I misunderstand this) but for many years the feature was unavailable.
As it works for me in my Elan IIe and 7e, I really like it.
The eye control focus allows you to choose the point part of the scene that the auto-focus focuses on by merely looking at it - or at least the viewfinder focus point closest to it. The movement of your eye does the work - no buttons to push, dials to turn or screens to touch.
Once Canon stopped including it in cameras, due to the fact that some customers could not get it to reliably work for them, the feature was unavailable anywhere other than in fighter jets.
I believe that it may have been recently incorporated again in some of the newest digital cameras (please correct me if I misunderstand this) but for many years the feature was unavailable.
As it works for me in my Elan IIe and 7e, I really like it.
You move your eye ball to activate a focus point by looking at it, same to activate DOF preview, these two features apply to Elan IIe, I don't know if DOF preview was put onto any other Canon from those days.Where is eye focus within digitals, but it is focus on the eye, not by eye.
The 650 arrived today
Shutter sounds weird to me but seems to work fine. Stay's open during bulb, long times seemed kinda matching and fast times seem to work, too. Just a weird noise... I don't know, sounds weak.
What's very weird is the light meter. I don't know if it's because I use a fully manual lens, but the reasings are way to low. I compared it with my G70, and while the G70 gave me 1/80th at 4.0 the 650 suggest's 1/6. That's about 4 Stops off... That's a lot!
For now I just compansated via tellin the camera it has an ISO of 3200 instead of 200. Now the readings seem to be similar. Still, this worries me a bit.
Anyway, I guess I'll just have to shoot a test film and see.
Check if your 650 was in right (manual) metering mode before comparing "readings" with another camera, which also would have to be in manual mode. Not saying you did not, just in case you did not. 4 stops difference does not exists between modern and any most ancient metering camera for same settings. So it was either comparing different fruits, or something is badly wrong.The 650 arrived today
Shutter sounds weird to me but seems to work fine. Stay's open during bulb, long times seemed kinda matching and fast times seem to work, too. Just a weird noise... I don't know, sounds weak.
What's very weird is the light meter. I don't know if it's because I use a fully manual lens, but the reasings are way to low. I compared it with my G70, and while the G70 gave me 1/80th at 4.0 the 650 suggest's 1/6. That's about 4 Stops off... That's a lot!
For now I just compansated via tellin the camera it has an ISO of 3200 instead of 200. Now the readings seem to be similar. Still, this worries me a bit.
Anyway, I guess I'll just have to shoot a test film and see.
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