Where to start? Need the ABC's of developing....

So I decided to shoot film somewhat regularly again. Most of it is so I can test out various film bodies that I acquire regularly. Up until now, I've been doing the 1-hour processing at my local Walgreens for color, and a (somewhat) local mom & pop lab for the B&W. Much like days gone by, the cost is adding up. so I want to start developing my negatives myself.

A few months ago, I bought a couple of boxes of assorted photo equipment for $50, which was an absolute steal, as there was a Tamron 90mm macro for Canon EOS in there, as well as other bodies and lenses, but there was also a ton of darkroom related items. I sold most of it on ebay, but I kept a changing bag, some steel reels, and two bottles of developer (HC-110 and T-Max). I have no clue as to the age of any of this stuff, but I'm guessing 10 yrs or so. Not sure if the T-Max developer is any good, but from my readings, I think the HC-110 will be usable. I also picked up a couple of developing tanks/reels since then. Unfortunately, the Paterson System 4 tank is missing the cap.

So now, in my infinite wisdom, I think I am ready to actually run a roll, but I am totally confused on what I need. Assuming the HC-110 is still good, I *think* I only need some fixer, and can use regular tap water (?) as my stop bath. What am I looking for when shopping for fixer? I'm sure they all can't be the same, or are they?

I'm hoping you guys/gals can give me some direction in what I need to start developing. I believe I just need a fixer, and then I can start? I've done the youtube videos, read all sorts of stuff, and to be honest, it's kind of confusing, and I now it shouldn't be (did film developing decades ago in high school, but don't remember diddly from it). Is there any more 'hardware' I need, or that you find very handy to have?

Most helpful would be your times. My house is warm at typically 76-78F (wife likes it there), so if I get my developer and other chemicals at room temp, do I just base times off of that?

And on the HC-110, what dilution mix is the best for a beginner? I got so confused with the different ratios listed at covington, that I stopped trying to think.

Thanks in advance!

I question the usability of your HC110. Kodak Fixer. Go online and find a 1-shot dilution for the HC110. You need a good thermometer. On everything else, it looks like you're all set. GL

The following site should answer all your questions on HC-110. Some people use dilution B while others just dilute the concentrate 1+49 and use the dilution E times.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Fixer is fixer, they're not all the same recipe but they do the same job, just follow the directions of whatever you buy and you're set. I'd recommend a real stop-bath, some people will probably tell you that you can get away with water (and may be correct), but there's no harm in using one.

A lid for your tank is definitely necessary for inversion (stirring is not ideal), as is a thermometer. 3 mixing jugs means you can measure out all your chems before starting, just don't mix them up.
Temperature affects time, see the MDC for starting times and then here for temperature compensations (or use a kettle / ice-cubes to adjust everything to 20C)

The only problem with using HC-110 is that with many of the dilutions and many films, the development times are quite short, and if you are working at higher temperatures, that situation is exascerbated.
One potential solution is to use unofficial dilution H - 1 part thick concentrate plus 63 parts water. Development times are approximately twice what is recommended for the most common dilution B (1 + 31), so that is where I would suggest you start.
It is important to make sure you have enough developer in your tank. I am quite conservative on this issue - I follow Kodak's recommendations - so I make sure that there is at least 380 ml of working strength HC-110 dilution H in my tank forvewch roll of film.
I believe in stop bath, but you can use white vinegar diluted 1 + 4. If you want to use water, it needs to be running water.
Rapid Fixer is a lot more convenient than traditional fixer, and is more easily obtained in a non-hardening form, which can be important for prints.
There are excellent pdf documents on both the Ilford and Kodak websites on how to get started - if you cannot find them, ask for the links here and we can guide you.

Thanks.

Gerald - That's the site that got me more confused initially.

Dr. - It's only the Paterson that doesn't have the lid. I have 4 steel tanks that are complete. I may order a replacement lid if I can't find one.
- So pretty much any brand fixer will do, as long as I follow directions.
- A proper stop bath is best

Matt - So you're suggesting I use the 1:63 ratio? That will make 1/2 gallon, correct? How many rolls would that be good for?
- Any recommended brand of rapid fixer? I won't be printing off the negatives, but through scans. Unless I take a Pulitzer prize winning shot, that is.

Good Morning, Matt,

Re HC-110: Regardless of the particular dilution you choose, it's generally preferred to mix directly from the concentrate and use as a one-shot. Dilution A is 1:15; Dilution B is 1:31; Dilution C is 1:19; Dilution D is 1:39; Dilution E is 1:47; Dilution F is 1:79; Dilution G is 1:119; Dilution H is 1:63. B and H are probably the most commonly used. A small, skinny graduate is a good idea when measuring the concentrate, since it will usually be an ounce or less. After emptying the graduate, rinse it with water going into the solution, since some of the concentrate will tend to stick to the graduate.

Konical

Kirks518 said:

Matt - So you're suggesting I use the 1:63 ratio? That will make 1/2 gallon, correct? How many rolls would that be good for?
- Any recommended brand of rapid fixer? I won't be printing off the negatives, but through scans. Unless I take a Pulitzer prize winning shot, that is.

Click to expand...

As Konical posted, mix up just the amount you need each time you develop film, and discard after use. I use a 45ml Paterson graduate, put 20 ml of water into it, and then slowly add the concentrate until the total volume is increased the requisite amount.

So, for example, if my tank needs 500 ml of working solution, I calculate using a total volume of 512 ml (because the numbers work well) that means 8 ml of concentrate plus 504 ml of water.

I put 20 ml of water into my graduate, then slowly add concentrate until the total reaches 28 ml. Then I dump that into a larger graduate. I rinse the 45ml graduate with water a few times into the larger graduate, and then top up the larger graduate to a hair over 500 ml, which should be close enough functionally to 512ml.

It helps if you set your water up ahead of time, so as to allow it to come to room temperature.

As for brand of Rapid fixer, I would base my choice on availability, price and the ability to use it without hardener. The commonly available brands are all high quality. I am a life-long user of Kodak materials, and will be returning to Kodak Rapid Fixer soon, but I'm just finishing a 5 litre bottle of Ilford Hypam that I am very happy with.

I used to use HC 110. I liked Dilution B used as a one-shot. You can use HC 110 with no qualms at all even hen I is very, very dark brown. It needs no adjustments.

For fixer, ILFORD Rapid Fixer takes some beating. Tap water is good enough for stop bath and you might like to do a five minute pre-soak with it before you start.

Here are a few HC 110 examples http://www.ipernity.com/search/photo?q=HC110&w=293985&t=0&lic=&s=0

RR